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Old 12-13-2010, 07:18 PM   #11
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Don't you have to cut the crimp away to get the old primer OUT?
Nope with my Lee decapper die you can punch those crimped in primers out. But it still leaves a ridge around the primer pocket making it a real bear to get a new primer in. So I use a primer pocket reamer and a little battery operated screw driver with a counter sink, to cut that ridge out and give the primer pocket a nice sloping edge for the primer to center itself and slide in. With the pocket still the proper size (the primer pocket reamer does that) to keep the primer from coming out. You only have to do it once and it will be fine until the case wears out.
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:29 AM   #12
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I was wondering what to do with an old ice cream churn that I had sitting on a shelf on the shop. I had bought a White Mountain and was too stubborn to simply throw away a working unit. It sat there for a couple of years until I had an epiphany. This thing was made of extremely sturdy and rust/corrosion resistant material. I took it down, dusted it off, filled it up about half way with some filthy range brass I had culled and tossed in a bucket under the bench. The only thing wrong with the brass was the dirt and crud. Of course, I had utilized the usual procedures of dealing with this problem, but time budgeting issues dissuaded the reclaiming of the brass by those methods.

I filled in up with hot,soapy water,slipped the lid on, and plugged her in. It made a god-awful racket so I sat it outside and got out the trusty extension cord. After about an hour, I dumped it and refilled with clean water and let it run for another 10 mins or so. Then checked the results. Excellent! The brass was clean. Taking the concept to the next level found me filling the container with corn cob media charged with some Brasso. Another 30 mins, a quick shake through a spaghetti strainer to remove the polishing media, and presto...

This cut my brass cleaning time in half and the machinery was cheap. I even make my own corncob media out of cobs harvested from my garden. After shelling the corn, I toss them into a covered bin and let the sun and air do the rest. After thoroughly cured, I run them through an industrial strength blender I picked up at a local Good Will or Salvation Army store for a couple of bucks. If I remember correctly, I had to replace the cord. Buying media is simpler, but as I have said before...I love the DIY concept. Though I do tend to get my priorities screwed up once in a while.
And I think about all those corn cobs we burned in our pot belly stove on the farm. I could have kept brass clean for the rest of my life. LOL
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:19 AM   #13
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Good way to clean them, but I'd follow up with a vibrating brass polisher.

For the 5.56 LC brass

Then they would get sorted by head stamp. From there they would all be trimmed to the same length.

After trimming the case mouths get de burred inside and out.

The LC cases are really good cases but need more prep than some of the better brands. You will find a lot of brass flashing inside of the primer holes on them, so a primining hole cutter tool should then be used to remove the flashing and leave just the slightest dish on the inside. Then ream the primer holes with a cutter that cuts the floor of the primer hole flat. If crimped, the crimp should be removed, you'll damage the new primers if you don't and will get variance in velocity and consistancy.

Once you have done all of the above and looked for ones too badly dented or with split case mouths, then load them.

Just cleaning and loading used military brass will never give you he full accuracy potential of the round.

I buy new LC Brass from Graf $ Sons for $140. per 1000. That way I know exactly what I'm starting with.
If you know that the pick up brass at the range is once fired, then by all means grab it, but much range brass is left because it's junk.

If you are only looking at burning up a bunch or rounds, then the prep is not necessary, but if you want accurate loads and who doesn't, why not get good brass and spend the time to prepare it the right way. It doesn't cost any more except for the money for the tools, less than $50.00.

When buying reloading equipment, buy quality, it will last a lifetime if taken care of. Lee makes low priced equipment , much of it not all that precise, get quality, it will pay in the long run and load more accuratly.
It does make a difference.

I know some will disagree. I'm a retired gunsmith and have been reloading for over 35 years. I've used just about every brand out there and quality does make a huge difference, buy quality, you will never be sorry. I still use the RCBS Rockchucker press I bought 25 years ago. It's as good as the day I bought it. That's just one example.

Just my 2 cents.

John K

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Old 12-14-2010, 02:43 PM   #14
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I then bought a bigger compressor from Northern Tool and it had a pressure adjustment gauge on it.

Sarge
Cool. I got a catalog right here. What's the item #?
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:07 PM   #15
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Normally I run it at 150psi for general all around work but sometimes 250 is needed for air operated tools.

Sarge
What kind of air tools are you running with 250psi? Ours is at 180 and we run everything from impacts to die grinders to glass bead cabinets.

Never blew a finger nail off either.
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:33 PM   #16
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Seriously. I've got an Ingersoll Rand 3/4" impact that will snap head bolts, harmonic balancer bolts, wheel studs, etc. at 175 PSI! I figure with 300 PSI I can take out a dozer....

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Old 12-14-2010, 09:48 PM   #17
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Cool. I got a catalog right here. What's the item #?
Central Pneumatic #710 Made in Italy.
Single Stage Twin cylinders
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:36 PM   #18
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What model of compressor is this? I GOT to get me one of these!
DANG! SWMBO just vetoed that idea.
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:43 PM   #19
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Just think of what you could do with 300PSI hooked up to a train horn guys! I want that in my truck. I am gonna mount Sarge's compressor in the bed of my Dodge!

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Old 12-15-2010, 04:25 AM   #20
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Seriously. I've got an Ingersoll Rand 3/4" impact that will snap head bolts, harmonic balancer bolts, wheel studs, etc. at 175 PSI! I figure with 300 PSI I can take out a dozer....
It is the air pressure with in a small area. (1/8" hole in a blower head) that ups the pressure.
On my power tools it is not that I need all that pressure but I just want to keep the tool running longer before the tank gets low and I have to wait for it to build up again. Die grinders, drills, sand blasters and the blower head when I am using it to clean a part or the floor or the driveway. I don't know how I got along without a compressor as many things I use it for. If nothing else to blow chips off the lathe or mill.
Sarge
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