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**Shade** · 10-24-2012, 02:08 AM

Tossing around the idea of building my own reloading press, single stage,
Have all the materials laying around the place.

Have any of you evey done or attempted this?

Thoughts, ideas?

303tom · 10-24-2012, 04:35 AM

Good Luck...................

**Shade** · 10-24-2012, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 303tom

Good Luck...................

Hmmmmm, Sincere or sarcasm? BTW I do like sarcasm when delivered
with some dry humor.

Here are my thoughts so far, it could be an O frame or C frame. I would like
to have a real beefy C frame, I have all kind of heavy plate (>1") and up to
5" rounds.

Still debating whether to make it a solid weldment or a bolt together style.

If I machine the base (part that contains the ram) and the top plate (die
plate) separately and use a bolt together design then I have to keep the
holes lined up, not hard on the mill, done similar work many times making
welding fixtures. Just have to plan out everything well the vertical supports
will be heavy round stock with the ends turned square in the lathe. This is
the design that I think is the route I am going to try first.

To give you an idea of this: https://fsreloading.com/lee-classic-...ess-90064.html
but it would a single stage press not a turret.

The second option would be a solid weldment. With a solid weldment I would
machine the ram bore first, weld up the assembly than in the mill indicate the
bore in and machine and tap the die hole. I would likely have a underbored
rough hole in the weldment to use the co-axial indicator (Blake) to reach
through to get to the ram bore.

A little background info, I am a welder, started in the Navy welding for
6 years then ran my own welding and fabrication business for 9 years. For
my equipment I have a Romi 13-5 Lathe, Bridgeport Mill, Dynasty 300DX
and Millermatic 350P. And all the needed tooling to do this.

anm2_man · 10-24-2012, 08:48 PM

I say if you have enough time & money - go for it. I would stay away from bolting it together - Cast or weld is they only way to go. I have a cheap Lee C frame press - its cast and I only use it for de-milling my Missed reloaded ammo, and its amazing how much it flexes when I pull the projectile. When you sizing long cartidges, there is a lot of pressure applied to the frame. I would look at all of the different manufactures and see where they cast the strength in the casting and try to duplicate it with welded plates.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shade

Hmmmmm, Sincere or sarcasm? BTW I do like sarcasm when delivered
with some dry humor.

Here are my thoughts so far, it could be an O frame or C frame. I would like
to have a real beefy C frame, I have all kind of heavy plate (>1") and up to
5" rounds.

Still debating whether to make it a solid weldment or a bolt together style.

If I machine the base (part that contains the ram) and the top plate (die
plate) separately and use a bolt together design then I have to keep the
holes lined up, not hard on the mill, done similar work many times making
welding fixtures. Just have to plan out everything well the vertical supports
will be heavy round stock with the ends turned square in the lathe. This is
the design that I think is the route I am going to try first.

To give you an idea of this: https://fsreloading.com/lee-classic-...ess-90064.html
but it would a single stage press not a turret.

The second option would be a solid weldment. With a solid weldment I would
machine the ram bore first, weld up the assembly than in the mill indicate the
bore in and machine and tap the die hole. I would likely have a underbored
rough hole in the weldment to use the co-axial indicator (Blake) to reach
through to get to the ram bore.

A little background info, I am a welder, started in the Navy welding for
6 years then ran my own welding and fabrication business for 9 years. For
my equipment I have a Romi 13-5 Lathe, Bridgeport Mill, Dynasty 300DX
and Millermatic 350P. And all the needed tooling to do this.

**Shade** · 10-24-2012, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anm2_man

I say if you have enough time & money - go for it. I would stay away from bolting it together - Cast or weld is they only way to go. I have a cheap Lee C frame press - its cast and I only use it for de-milling my Missed reloaded ammo, and its amazing how much it flexes when I pull the projectile. When you sizing long cartidges, there is a lot of pressure applied to the frame. I would look at all of the different manufactures and see where they cast the strength in the casting and try to duplicate it with welded plates.

I bet we have the same light duty press from Lee, I purchased just
for sizing cast lead bullets. I works great for that, but not much else.
I have run some .357 Mag and .45 ACP through a Factory Crimp Die.
Works for that but not much more. I wouild not even try any bottle
necked cases in it on any operation.

**Jim1611** · 10-24-2012, 10:35 PM

I've thought of this myself, especially for a 50 cal. I think I'd design it as a bolt together. The parts could be keyed so that the pressure is on a key and not a bolt. Welding is going to warp things. You can true them up but for some areas it may be hard to machine, or impossible where it is located. 3 things you want.
1. Ease of getting the brass into the shell plate.
2. Precision everywhere.
3. Rigidity.
That's what I see as being most important as far as design and how it's built. You may want to get some of the plates surface ground too, if you go the bolt together route. Oh and you might even want to make a replacible sleeve for the ram to move up and down. Bearing bronze would work great or if you want to get real fancy use linear bearings.

I think you have a great idea. Some of the commercial presses don't have enough room for some of the longer magnum rounds if you use the dies that have the brass and bullet follower that moves inside the seating die. I'd say go for it!

**Shade** · 10-25-2012, 12:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim1611

I've thought of this myself, especially for a 50 cal. I think I'd design it as a bolt together. The parts could be keyed so that the pressure is on a key and not a bolt.

I was planning on using hardened dowel pins.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim1611

Welding is going to warp things. You can true them up but for some areas it may be hard to machine, or impossible where it is located.

Warpage I can control. I agree some of the long reach with tools and boring
bars would be a machining challenge on a Bridgeport.

You know how it goes, long tools in tiny holes...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim1611

Oh and you might even want to make a replacible sleeve for the ram to move up and down. Bearing bronze would work great or if you want to get real fancy use linear bearings.

Me likely that idea!!!

**Jim1611** · 10-25-2012, 02:35 AM

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-linear-bearings/=jv8j3u
They have a real good selection of linear bearings and hardened shaft. You can get hardened shaft material that's soft in the middle so it can be machined. Might make a good main shaft.

Now you got me interested in making one of these!! All I need is another project.

**Shade** · 10-25-2012, 03:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim1611

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-linear-bearings/=jv8j3u
They have a real good selection of linear bearings and hardened shaft. You can get hardened shaft material that's soft in the middle so it can be machined. Might make a good main shaft.

Hardened and ground shaft is a good call I need to get some to fix my
finishing mower, nuther story for nuther time. I bet I could use the same
size. My concern is getting debris in linear guide. I think a bronze bushing
is a better choice. Oil impregnated cored bronze rounds are reasonable.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-red-metal-hollow-tubing/=jv9k6m

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim1611

[Now you got me interested in making one of these!! All I need is another project.

Addictive aint it, and without the side effects of drugs.... LOL