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Old 07-02-2013, 01:21 AM   #11
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Full length or neck size is no concern as long as you when neck sizing them the brass is from YOUR rifle. Then trim them, debur them before seating. Then start out at the maximum suggested seating depth and inspect for fine lans marking on the bullet. If they are there, then adjust slowly in increments until the marks are gone, and wah lah!

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Old 07-02-2013, 01:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wouva1 View Post
If I was to use the sharpie method would I need to full length size the cartridge first and trim to length or gently seat the bullet into the fire formed brass to find the lands...sorry if some of my questions sound a bit dumb....cheers
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Originally Posted by Anna_Purna View Post
Full length or neck size is no concern as long as you when neck sizing them the brass is from YOUR rifle. Then trim them, debur them before seating. Then start out at the maximum suggested seating depth and inspect for fine lans marking on the bullet. If they are there, then adjust slowly in increments until the marks are gone, and wah lah!

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yes, this is refered to as shallow seating the bullets. many reloaders will make a dummy case to set this measurement. i resize a case, recap it with a spent primer, trim it to length, deburr the case and then very gently seat the desired bullet in very shallow, then paint the bullet with a sharpie and let it dry and then place it in the rifle an very gently chamber it and then very gently extract it. then observe for rifling marks. if it has them, then seat it back with yourseating die about .050 and then recoat the bullet, let it dry and repeat. when you have no marks on the bullet, you're at you max OAL length for your chamber.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:33 AM   #13
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And most definitely use lube when sizing them.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:37 AM   #14
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Anna and Axe are giving you good advice. I find that if I pinch the neck a bit with pliers before starting a bullet into the brass, it'll make a more visible scratch. A jeweller's eyepiece is very handy in this as the bullet will often pull back a bit when you pull the bolt back and sometimes will even stick in the lands and need to be tapped back with a cleaning rod to knock it out. No matter if you can lay your hands on a cheap jeweller's eyepiece; you'll be able to insert that bullet back by hand to exactly the end of the scratch mark in the sharpie colouring you made.

Personally, I wouldn't get too fixated on the reloading manual number; all rifles are different and its better to figure out the OAL of your particular rifle with a particular bullet and you can then use that number in experimenting to find what a firearm likes.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:38 AM   #15
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WOW....thanks very much everyone for the responses to my problem,this is truly a great forum and a great place to learn....my questions have been answered and will be reloading as we speak.....I'll be heading to the range tomorrow to see how I go and will post my results as soon as in finished...fingers and toes crossed....once again thanks for the great help.....cheers
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:41 AM   #16
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This is why I use the Stony Point cartridge OAL. Now the Hornady LNL case gauge.


Not that any of the info given so far is wrong. Everyone is pointing you in the perfect Due north direction.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:44 AM   #17
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here's some really good information about seating depth from Sinclair.

good reading for you. explains a lot about seating depth much better than i can.

http://blog.sinclairintl.com/2009/03/26/determining-bullet-seating-depth/
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:54 AM   #18
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A tight fitting closure is not always an indication of OAL resistance. The tight closure can be do to neck thickness. Neck thickness is the real danger for erratic and high C.U.P. damage.
Triming a case neck is only half of the correction. The forward brass flow does not only increase length but crates an uneven thickness of the neck dimension. The bullet is held past the proper breaking point like a stuck valve. This results in blown primers and damaged bolt faces.
Make sure you check the proper seated neck dimension around the neck. The necks should have the ODs turned after triming to proper length. The brass if properly annealed will give a longer and more accurate life.
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:28 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnut07
This is why I use the Stony Point cartridge OAL. Now the Hornady LNL case gauge.

Not that any of the info given so far is wrong. Everyone is pointing you in the perfect Due north direction.
The methods described earlier will certainly work but the hornady gauge sure makes it easier. Before I bought the gauge, I used to take a resized case and make two cuts about halfway down be case neck. Take a bullet and start It in the case, as gently as possible chamber and extract the case. Worked like a charm. Another method that I used a good bit was just like the magi market thing, but I used smoke from a candle.
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Old 07-02-2013, 03:43 AM   #20
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Pick one manual and put the other one away once you decide. Either one will be fine. I would recommend doing some testing with your rifle and see what works best (meaning load several rounds from each manual, check how they perform in your rifle, and use the one that gives you the best accuracy). Figuring out exactly what your particular rifle "likes" is one of the things that make reloading challenging. Some rifles like to have a bit of "jump" to the lands for instance.

When checking your chamber and all with the Sharpie, use dummy rounds without primer or powder in them. Other than that detail all other advice here is sound.
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