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Old 07-02-2012, 12:59 PM   #1
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Default reloaded and fired my first three rounds yesterday

Yesterday, I desided I finaly had everything gathered up to reload my first batch. I wanted to load a few an test them out. I was reloading 45 auto with 185 grain jswc. I used a 4 die set and gave it a "light" crimp. When I checked the round out, I didn't like the looks of the crip so I added a bit more. A bit more being 3/4 turn past vice 1/2 turn for a light crimp. When I tested the rounds out, I noticed it felt different chambering a round. So the next thing I did was to clear the pistol. Was hard. Would this show not enough crimp? I fired the rounds and recovered the brass. They looked good, except maybe a little sooted up on one side. What do you think?

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Old 07-02-2012, 02:09 PM   #2
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You did not say what kind of gun you are reloading for, but did you test fit the round after you reloaded it to check headspace? If it is hard to clear the gun, it could be that your OAL was too long for the particular bullet. Possible even with a SWC, as I have proven

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Old 07-02-2012, 05:58 PM   #3
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If you have a hard crimp, that case may be seating too deep and when fired, "hooking up" into the leade or back of the rifling. That .45 should seat on the case mouth. Also, you didnt say if you are taper crimping or roll crimping, it sounds like you are roll crimping which you should not do on .45 ACP,,,,if you crimp the .45 ACP AT ALL, then it should be a taper crimp only. And then, only enough to hold the bullet during recoil.

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Old 07-03-2012, 02:33 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jebsca View Post
Yesterday, I desided I finaly had everything gathered up to reload my first batch. I wanted to load a few an test them out. I was reloading 45 auto with 185 grain jswc. I used a 4 die set and gave it a "light" crimp. When I checked the round out, I didn't like the looks of the crip so I added a bit more. A bit more being 3/4 turn past vice 1/2 turn for a light crimp. When I tested the rounds out, I noticed it felt different chambering a round. So the next thing I did was to clear the pistol. Was hard. Would this show not enough crimp? I fired the rounds and recovered the brass. They looked good, except maybe a little sooted up on one side. What do you think?
I crimp as lightly as possible for the 45 auto. The rim of the round is what stops the forward progression of the round in the chamber.

Do you have a micrometer? The case mouth on my reloaded rounds is about .4725 of an inch. My Hornady manual says it should be .473. When I crimp my rounds, I feel the tool working in the handle and try to crimp it as slightly as it can; then measure.
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:44 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jebsca View Post
Yesterday, I desided I finaly had everything gathered up to reload my first batch. I wanted to load a few an test them out. I was reloading 45 auto with 185 grain jswc. I used a 4 die set and gave it a "light" crimp. When I checked the round out, I didn't like the looks of the cri[m]p so I added a bit more. A bit more being 3/4 turn past vice 1/2 turn for a light crimp. When I tested the rounds out, I noticed it felt different chambering a round. So the next thing I did was to clear the pistol. Was hard. Would this show not enough crimp? I fired the rounds and recovered the brass. They looked good, except maybe a little sooted up on one side. What do you think?
OK, 45ACP, 185gr jacketed. Got that.
4 die set... Is the last die a taper crimp/factory crimp? If so, you just run the fully loaded round all the way in and back out.

Rimless strait wall cases, the 45 ACP, head space on the case mouth. No or very minimal crimp is needed or wanted. Some place in using the first three dies, the case mouth should have been flared, just a little to facilitate the entry of the bullet during the seating process. That flare should be ironed out in the seating process but not over done.

You don't list what or how much powder your use and that is fine. But you say 'a little sooted up on one sided'. I can only guess that this means the outside of the case has some soot. If so, this is an indication of a light loading, the case didn't expand to seal the chamber. This is only a guess on my part.

Further more you have concerns about chambering and clearing the chamber. This could be caused by several things. Overall length being too long. Or as stated above, the loaded round sunk too far into the chamber and the bullet engaged the throat and or rifling. None of these are good. If the loading is over length, the bullets could be pulled when you clear the chamber and throw un-burned powder all over and leave the bullet. The other possibility is excessive head spaceing and this causes major pressure problems and brass set back.

My suggestion is to dig out the loading dies paperwork and set the dies up again, step by step. Follow the makers instructions.



Keep at it and all ways error on the side of safety.
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:38 AM   #6
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You have a .45 ACP .45 AR die set. The roll crimp is for the .45 AR. Use the taper crimp die for your .45 ACP. No the .45 ACP does not head space on the rim.

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Old 07-04-2012, 03:02 AM   #7
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And I was worried I was putting to much into the post.

I am reloading 45 auto mostly for my RIA 5" 1911, but may also use it in my S&W Gov.

My OAL was from 1.228 to 1.232.

I am using a Lee deluxe Pistol Die Set. It has the factory crimp die, but it does not list it as a taper or a roll crimp, and it does not say what crimp the bullet seating die would give. I was only trying to crimp enough to remove the flare. When setting up the flare, I followed the instructions, that tell me to screw the die in until it touches the shell holder, and then back it out one full turn, and adjust as needed to be able to accept the bullet. In one of the books, it talks about opening the flare up just enough to not shave the bullet when placing it in. I tested at one turn out, and then adjusted in 1/6th a turn and retested. I ended up at 2/3rd turns in. At this point, I could look and see the flare.

When I was looking at load data, I found a few showing using Winchester WSF. One started at 6.3 gr and the other started at 6.0, so I started at 6.0. I think that I had seen some place that loading light would not open the case up enough to seal and would soot up the outside of the brass. When reading this, I pictured all of the brass being covered, but what I had was just part, maybe a ¼ of the brass was covered in soot. Sounds like I need to step up a bit more on powder. I think that I will go to the 6.3 gr.

When I was setting up the factory crimp die, the instructions tell me to screw the die in until it touches the shell holder and back out the adjusting screw. With the loaded round in the die, turn the adjusting screw in until I can feel it just touch the case mouth. Then move the cartridge out of the die and screw the adjusting screw in ½ turn for a light crimp and 1 turn in for a heavy crimp. When I tried the light crimp, it looked to me like the flare was still showing, but I did not check it with a gauge. I also did not try a test fit like I know I have read I should try. I turned the crimp in another ¼ turn and tried that.

I think I have a few things to try differently, the biggest being to test fit in the bbl before I take it to the range. I also will have to measure the case mouth after loading.

Kid is correct, it is a acp auto rim set, but I still can not tell you which crimp is a taper or a roll. They are only listed as crimp and factory crimp. Did I mess up in thinking that FACTORY crimp would be the best bet?

Looks like I need to do MORE reading. Thanks for all the help.

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Old 07-04-2012, 04:12 AM   #8
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OK, the 'Lee Precision' Deluxe 4 die pistol set does this:

Number 1 die - punches out the old primer and full length sizes - crank it in until it touches the head holder, set the de-priming rod deep enough to push out the old primer.

Number 2 die - flares the case, set it to the point that the case is expanded just enough for a bullet to clear but no more (it will over work the brass and make it hard and cause it to split). This is a good place to charge the case with powder [don't forget to seat a new primer first].

Number 3 die - seats and irons out the flare. Run it in till it touches the head holder, then back it out till the cases flare is gone [it's a .45ACP so no crimp is wanted - your bullets don't have canalures/crimp groves]. Last is to set the seating plug so the bullet is properly seated. What is 'properly'? Depend upon the bullet. You are using nice smooth jacketed short 185 grain bullets, try for the diameter of the bullet in the case. But, the overall shape should be smooth with the bullet set out as far as your mags will hold. Ok, I know I contradicted myself. It gets to be a judgement call. If loading lead SWC, set to half a dime thickness of the driving band exposed. Remember, seat too deep and the pressures go up.

Number 4 die is for crimp and post sizing OR factory crimp. If yours has the second seating plug, screw it out so it just touches. Screw the die out so NO crimp is made or just don't use it.
If yours has the 'Factory' crimp, it just does a semi full length sizing operation. Just screw the die down to contact the head holder. (I have some of both and don't remember ever using the 'crimp and post sizing' die on 9MM or 40S&W or .45ACP.)

As for your load, I don't use wSuper-Fld (Is that what WSF is?). I use 231 (5.6grs - warm) all of the time now, used to use 230 and unique and some others back when. If your charge is at or very near the bottom loading listed in a trusted loading manual, I would think it would be safe for a starting point. Work up slowly till your weapons feels right. You don't need to stress your weapon or yourself.

Hope I explained myself well enough not to confuse the issue.

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Old 07-04-2012, 04:23 AM   #9
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The LFC is giving a roll crimp. You should use the Taper Crimp Die only for your .45 ACP. The .45 AR is a revolver Ctg. Take the barrel off your 1911 load and drop the rounds in the chamber. They drop in all the way and fall out when you tip the barrel chamber down.The carbon may be from over crimp not low pressure. Pistol brass is cold worked so much when loading it hardens and often will not seal regardless. If it were rifle brass you can aneal it but not .45 ACPs. I don't get up set over a blackened case if they shoot OK. If you shoot factory ammo it will often blacken. This is a semi auto and they are relieving the seal during the firing cylce. It gets into action dewel and not all autos act the same. good luck.

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Old 07-04-2012, 04:47 AM   #10
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Got a few more rounds loaded, and hope to test them tomarrow. Took the bbl out and used it to test seating depth. Slides in and out fine. Did not crimp. OAL was 1.156. Case mouth showed .470. When I reset my expanding die, I was able to work with it out much more than the last time. Things seamed to go better this time all around. I think I will still have to take the time to read all of the books that I have picked up again.

Thanks again.

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