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Old 11-03-2010, 05:31 PM   #11
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I anneal all bottleneck rifle cases except .223/5.56. I stand the cases in a pie pan filled with tap water. Heat the necks til cherry red and tip them over in the water. Air dry and re-polish to remove most of the discoloration. I have heard of people simply holding the case in their bare hands and rotating it in the flame until too hot to hold, then dropping into water. If you do not get the neck glowing red, you have not anealed it and have wasted your time. I seriously doubt you can get the necks hot enough w/o burning your fingers. If you aneal the base, you will give yourself further problems.

I have necked .243 up to .308, .25-06 up to .30-06 and .270 up to 8mm after anealing with this method. I have had only a couple of split necks. I aneal every time to insure all are properly done.

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Old 11-03-2010, 06:52 PM   #12
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Do you ddo this with multiple cases all at once? What do you use to heat the case necks?

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Old 11-03-2010, 06:58 PM   #13
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I use the finger hold method. I use a glove and when I can feel the heat I drop them in a pan of water. my problem with the heat and tip method is that you only get to heat one side of the neck.

I use a basic propane torch. MAP gas torch might work good too. Worthington Pro Grade 14.1 MAP/Pro Cylinder - 308432 at The Home Depot

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Old 11-03-2010, 07:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squirrel_Slayer View Post
I was messing around with a few pieces of brass last night, heated one up with a pencil torch till it was glowing light red, dumped it into some tap water (didn't know I should be using DI water), and then dried it off. The case neck came out kind of scorched looking. Was that because I was using the tap water?

From the link I provided earlier in the thread:


There are several methods of determining when you have reached proper annealing temps: applying temperature-sensitive liquid (Tempilaq is recomended and available from McMaster-Carr or welding supply stores), or digital air-temp gauges, or watching for a specific color-change in the brass. Properly annealed brass necks and shoulders will be shiny light-blue or blue-grey. If you lose the shine, you got too hot. Do not let the case glow or get red-hot, that is too hot and you will be over-annealed.



I just bought an annealing machine and am in the same boat...learning.
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Old 11-03-2010, 07:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I just bought an annealing machine and am in the same boat...learning.
Cool! Which one?
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:17 PM   #16
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There are a lot of differinig opinions out there. I have never heard of "over anealing", just anealing too far down. I stand 20-30 across a crescent in a pie pan. I do not get perfect, 360 degree uniform heating, but they glow pretty uniformly. I have had no problems in sizing or firing so I must not be too far off the proper way.

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Old 11-03-2010, 09:23 PM   #17
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OK, I'm going to give that a try. I have a new experiment going on right now. I am going to compare my run of the mill handloads which I have been shooting for several months now, and compare them to the accuracy of some Lake City brass, swaged and scrubbed primer pockets, chamfered flash hole, trimmed to exacting specs, anneal them, chamfered inside and out case necks, scrub the outer edge of the case neck on sos pad, get em in the tumbler a second time, then load em up with Wolf primers, 25.4 gr. of Varget, and my 69gr. Matchkings.

I am just curious to see if there is enough of a difference between the accuracy of fifty rounds that I can load in an hour, and fifty rounds that will take me a couple of nights after work to load.

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Old 11-03-2010, 10:23 PM   #18
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If your going to go, might as well go all the way and check for neck thickness variation as well. I use a lot of Lake City brass "as is" for the short range, but my long range ammo gets the full treatment - uniforming, neck turning, etc.
Besides - what else do you have to do with your life? LOL.

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Old 11-03-2010, 10:30 PM   #19
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how do I go about checking neck thickness variation?

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Old 11-03-2010, 10:46 PM   #20
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There are several different tools available to do the job with a wide price range.
Insize Digital Thickness Gage -

I use a simple aluminum block that holds an arbor and a standard dial indicator to measure with. Just spin the case on the arbor and watch the needle on the indicator. Easy peesy.

Of course when you find a case neck that's not concentric, you're going to need neck turning tools as well. Or just cull out those cases and use the "good" ones only.

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