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Primers not flush with bottom of brass


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Old 02-09-2013, 07:30 AM   #11
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Risking a loaded round going off in your press is not worth it. Pull those rounds, reseat the primers and then reload them. Try and figure out what is going wrong though. This shouldn't be happening.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:16 AM   #12
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When i 1st started not that long ago I happened upon a singlestage RockChucker. It had the lil primer arm on it already so i figured i was good to go. Buying new brass i figured id have no problom seating the primers for my .45acp brass.

I popped one in and lowered the shell onto the arm with a good amount of force, noticing i couldnt feel it seat what so ever was strange. Going to pull it out it wouldnt come outta the shell holder it was so high. Cranked on it again and this time it came out.

On inspection i noticed it wasnt quite there still!! Putting it back in fora 3rd time did the trick, but i still could not "feel" it seat. I tried this with maybe 3 more new pieces of brass with the same result. I stopped my whole operation and waited till i could try a hand primer.

Upon gettin the hand primer i noticed right off the bat new brass was stiff to push them in, but i could actually get a feel for it and they seat perfectly almost %100 of the time.

i just wasnt comfortable with using the press after multiply tries, so now i sit on the couch and prime the night away.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:38 AM   #13
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Modern ammunition is loaded for use in semi auto firearms. The primer pockets are crimped in to hold the primer during unsupported cycle. The primer pockets should be swagged with an RCBS Combo Tool or something that will remove the crimp from the pocket.
I have found the LEE presses lack the leverage to over ride and seat a primers in these crimped cases.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robocop10mm View Post
I am not familiar with the Lee progressive, but my Dillon has an adjustable stop to regulate how deep the primers are seated. Check to see if you need to make an adjustment.

Cleaning primer pockets is not mandatory but I do it almost every time, just to insure reliable ignition. Using the Dillon, I make a pass just sizing/decapping. I then check primer pockets and clean as necessary, inspect for flaws, remove any primer pocket crimps as necessary. THEN, I load.

I remove the primer stops and throw them away.

Primers should be seated to the bottom of the pocket.

Robo, try a couple of thousand without that extra step. I'll betcha you'll never go back to it.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:19 AM   #15
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I'm sure you like your press, but hand priming works very well, and in my opinion is a lot faster....besides it's good exercise for your grip.
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:34 AM   #16
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Default Feel the primer seat..

Seating primers is an acquired "Feel".

A properly seated primer will actually "Crush" the primer cup into/against the anvil of the primer assembly. This usually will place the primer BELOW flush with the case.

I have seated primers for 40+years on a RCBS RockChucker press with GREAT results. Yes, it takes some pressure on some cases, but you can "Feel" the primer seat.

I sort my brass per Mfg. head stamp, and batch prime that way. When you are on the same brand of brass, you will get the same "Feel" as you go.

Slightly "Unseated" primers will not "Light Off" a round, unless you have a firing pin problem in MOST guns.
On some guns,the first strike may seat the primer, and the second strike set off the load?? Wolf primers come to mind on this complaint..NOT seated properly-first strike seats-second strike sets off.

If I were you--First step--get a QUALITY PRESS...Bill.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:44 PM   #17
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For the few rounds that I load on the single stage press, I use a bench mounted RCBS priming tool. I've used both LEE and RCBS hand priming tools in the past, and this bench mounted tool is a quantum leap superior.
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:53 AM   #18
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I've been using a Lee hand priming tool. Bought the 11 pack of shell holders. Once I get in a rythem I can do about 100 every 10 minutes.
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