Newbe question on reloading 40 S&W (Sorry it's a long post) - Page 2
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Old 01-02-2009, 01:15 PM   #11
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robocop10mm
Thank you very, very much! I can not tall you how much this helps! The details and specs you provided are very much what I was looking for. I must admit I have been seating the bullets and assumed the RCBS die had a tapper crimp which crimped at the same time. I did not know I should back off the tapper crimp (Small black adjuster at the top of the die) and add it as an additional step. I have 20 test rounds loaded with AA#7: five 8.7gr (min), five 9.0gr, five 9.4gr & five 9.7(max). Do I need to re-tapper crimp these rounds? I have “tapped it on a hard surface to see if the bullets will move in.” as Seedy Suggested. And the OVL has held @ 1.120
I have yet to test fire any of my reloads but plan on heading to the range this weekend. I must admit I am a little nervous about pulling the trigger on the 1st reload. I plan and starting with the weakest load and working my way up for safety sake all though all of the rounds are loaded with in the min and max Speer recipe specs so in theory I should be ok?
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Old 01-02-2009, 09:32 PM   #12
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Either visually examine the mouths for the taper crimp or "feel test" them for any residual flare at the mouth. Chamber check for more reliable assessment. I run everything through a case gauge. If it fits easily in the case gauge, it WILL fit in the gun. If it fails the case gauge but passes the chamber check, it becomes practice ammo.
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:22 PM   #13
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1. It was suggested to me to load 5 rounds at a time with varying powder amounts. The 1st five he helped me load were below the Sugg starting grains of 8.7gr, He loaded 8.0gr. From what I have read in a couple of my manuals it is dangerous to load below the min charge? I do not want to get hurt or damage my firearm so
What ever you do DON'T Shoot these as they could blow up taking you hand gun and other vital body parts with them. Then after you get done kicking your buddies ass for trying to kill you. Relax with a cold beer. EDIT: I see you pulled them apart and fixed that I would still kick my buddies ass.

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3. My buddy informed me not to “taper crimp” crimp my rounds? He said it would cause an unsafe build up in pressure, however my manuals recommends a medium Taper crimp? I am not sure how to proceed but tend to lean a little more to what the manual states.
Every set of pistol dies are build to crimp revolver calibers ie 44 mag 357 mag ect..... are all roll crimped. Semiauto dies are built to taper crimp. The reason for this is that revolver cartridges are rimmed and head space off the rim and auto cartridges head space off of the case mouth. You don't want too much crimp or too little crimp. But you HAVE TO CRIMP.

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4. How the heck do I tamper crimp?
Read the directions on your dies. If your dies don't have an instruction manual or pamphlet then call the manufacture they will send you one and also walk you threw the process of adjusting your dies. Pistol dies are a little harder than rifle (IE bottle neck) dies to set up.

Even if you are not using Sierra Bullets they have one of the best reloading help lines with knowledgeable staff that are reloaders themselves.

Feel free to pm me or hit me at cpttango30@gmaildotcom. I always am checking my email.
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Old 01-07-2009, 09:46 PM   #14
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I don't know alot about reloading, but my pistol coach a long time ago was teaching me a little and we were reloading .45 ACP for my Centerfire matches and I guess we didn't put enough powder in one of the rounds, or possibly not at all in that round. We didn't know it of course and the next time I went to shoot, that round got loaded and during my sustained relay, the weapon misfired. I quickly noticed that the slide hadn't moved completely forward. Assuming it was just dirty, (as I had shot at least 500 rounds through it that night already) I shoved the slide forward and continued to fire. My next two shots didn't hit the paper at all, and again, the weapon misfired. I looked at it and realized the slide was stuck with a casing protruding from the ejection port. I dropped the mag and attempted to clear the gun, put I couldn't pull the slide at all. I couldn't getting the protruding casing out, and even with a screwdriver, I couldn't pry the slide back at all. I had never seen that happen before.
My coach took the gun to a gunsmith that he was good friends with and upon dismantling it, we found the problem. There were three rounds jammed into the barrel, the barrel had expanded preventing the slide from moving at all. ( I still have the barrel). This is a reminder to me of making sure if I ever get into reloads seriously that I pay VERY close attention to each round I load, and to all specified guidelines. It was a very expensive lesson learned. lol
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Old 01-07-2009, 09:52 PM   #15
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Squib loads suck!
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:37 AM   #16
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Default 40 sw

Hi to everyone Dave from PA.
I read alot of info on forums and join alot of them, as all of you probably.
I am a reloader myself and I cant believe the different things different books say.
I use the Lyman 48th. I load the 40 and Ive recently loaded some . In my book the trim to length list .845.... the max case lenth list .850. now some of my once shot brass is like .841 / .844 and even 1 or 2 .839 . now i did not trim these when i got them . they were fact. loaded. so im using a hornady xtp 180 hp with unique. book says mim is 4.9 max grains is 5.6 .. I loaded some at 5.0/5.3/5.5 i aldready shot some 5.0's they were great! one jam though, no biggie it shot the next time.
Now i have that fact. brass thats like i said about 3 thousands difference in some of the cases. My book says the 180 hp should be seated to 1.115 . So i should regularly load the 180's and just seat at 1.115 even though a few cases are a lil different.
Also i dont taper crimp my 40 I have the M&P 40.. I expand the case mouth slightly and seat bullets and check EVERY BULLET/LENGTH.
I Cant stress enough how important it is to check your work even if its every 4 loaded rounds/// check em its worth it..

so i will be fireing some weds hopefuly. ill get back to everyone hey thanks for reading!
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Old 02-14-2009, 03:08 AM   #17
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another thing to remember is with 9mm,40,and others they take such a small powder cgarge that you can double charge one if you dont pay attention i loaded up some 180gr winchester hp's with 4.5 gr of titegroup 4.7 max so i weight/check every round . but then i trickle every round i load that way i know it is exact as for the crimp i got the 4th factory crimp die .so i seat in one step and crimp in another becuase as stated above you can continue to seat while crimping resulting in a crinkled round .
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Old 02-15-2009, 05:54 PM   #18
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Default S&W 40+ All Semi-auto handloads

+1 on RoBo+Tango info. I like them load more than several handgun loads. I use mostly Dillon dies+some RCBS. What I do on the last steps of Pistol (semi-auto) rounds is to seat bullet to specs. with no crimp. Then run all through a Lee Factory Crimp Die. This neat die will apply the proper taper crimp, and also re-size the base of the LOADED round. The Lee FCD has a carbide ring at it's base that will insure that the loaded round will chamber. As stated by others check all loaded rounds with case guage or field strip your weapon, and use your barrel. Midway and Dillon sells case guages, and a lot easier than taking apart your weapon each time you load. I re-load a lot of "range brass", and find that some (esp. fired in Glocks-un-supported chambers) brass will not re-size the bases properly with the standard sizer dies. The Lee FCD solves this condition. The Lee Factory Crimp Die is available by itself in most cals. Hay load for FUN-AND to save$$$$$$$$$$
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:35 PM   #19
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If you are going to use Accurate Powder go their web site and download their reloading manual, it's free. I load 150 & 155 grain HP's in .40 S&W. Data shows best one stop hits with 135 & 155 gr bullets.
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:15 AM   #20
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1) Don't blindly follow your friends, unless they are certified to teach reloading.
2) Don't blindly follow on-line "experts," including me
3) The following is my experience over 35+ years, and I am not an expert.
In handguns, you can start below the suggested starting load just fine. In fact, compare various manuals and note the starting loads.
The starting loads for auto pistols are sort of the minimum that will reliably cycle guns in good condition.
Likewise, the COL in a reloading manual is the minimum recommended COL for those charges. If you have to go shorter in COL, you have to cut the starting load by an additional 10% and work up.
The main safety issue would be sticking a bullet in the barrel and then firing another round. This is easily achieved with a revolver, but not as likely since a load that weak would not cycle the slide of an auto. However, there are a lot of idiots out there that do a lot of crazy things.
Even a charge as low as 1.5gn of True Blue in .38 Special has been sufficient to be on target (6" low) at 25 yards. Very easy shooting round.
Large rifle cases with small charges of slow powders can cause a problem. There have been cases where the powder has fused together and a "glob" has ended up as a barrel obstruction. For these loads, you go to a handgun powder. The lower the velocity, the faster the powder.
It is amazing that what were generally known reloading procedures in the '40s and '50s seem to be new discoveries today.
Does anyone know if any lab has EVER been able to duplicate the supposed "detonations caused by opposing wave fronts" as hypothesized by some, without having to resort to over charges?
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