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Old 04-22-2013, 01:01 PM   #11
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For beginning reloaders, GET A MANUAL. When reloading you MUST use data that has been tested and published. You can't just "wing" it. You're working with components that are potentially EXPLOSIVE.

NEVER load up anyone's "awesome" load or anything you see on the internet without double checking it with known data. What works in their gun might cost you a few fingers or worse your life.

If you don't know the difference between black powder and smokeless powder, STOP what you're doing and get a reloading manual and read it. Before you get into powders, bullets, cases, and primers you should at least have an idea of how things work.

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Old 04-23-2013, 05:39 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by MaxImpactGuns View Post

I'm absolutely new to reloading as well. I'm in an apartment but have some space I could use to reload. I'd like to reload 9mm, 40s&w, .45acp, 8mm mauser, and 12gauge. Do I have to buy a separate reloader for each caliber? I hope I don't sound retarded! I do have an OLD Hornady reloading book from my late father in law. I would have already been into this years ago but when he passed all of my wifes family swarmed the house and took all of his guns/ reloading equipment and what not. This was before I met her so.
Form the shotgun you will also need to get a different reloading book. With shotshells you CANNOT inter change anything like you can with rifle or handgun rounds.
With handgun or rifle ammo yon need to use the right powder for the weight of the bullet, but you can chose the weight of the powder charge. You can chose the make of the bullet you want to use.

Example of this is 9 mm.
You want 115 gr bullet
You also want blue dot powder.

The casing you use can be from any one like winchester or remington.
The bullet you can get from sierra, hornady, nosler, speer, or barnes. As long as the bullet weights 115 gr you are good.
You need small pistol primers; you can get winchestet, remington, cci, or federal. You could also get tula primers, as long as they are small pistol you are good.
The powder is blue dot; as long as you stay with in the charge weights you will be good.
As long as the info you use come out of the any of the books or from the maker's web site of powder you are using, you will be ok.

With shot gun you CANNOT do this. The shotgun reloading books will tell you this. Use only what the book says. If the book says this hull with this wad, with this charge of this powder, with this weight of shot; then that is what you do.

Just remember fallow the instructions in the books and fallow the data in the books or off the powder maker's web site (such as hodgdon).
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:36 PM   #13
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For beginning reloaders, GET A MANUAL. When reloading you MUST use data that has been tested and published. You can't just "wing" it. You're working with components that are potentially EXPLOSIVE.

NEVER load up anyone's "awesome" load or anything you see on the internet without double checking it with known data. What works in their gun might cost you a few fingers or worse your life.

If you don't know the difference between black powder and smokeless powder, STOP what you're doing and get a reloading manual and read it. Before you get into powders, bullets, cases, and primers you should at least have an idea of how things work.
Yea, you are working on a controlled explosion, he gave the best advice i have seen , i would deff do some research ,maybe a few cd,s ,and some data books quickly , reloading is great but it only takes one bad round to change it to a disaster for you and anyone near you at same range.You overload the wrong round for the wrong firearm regardles of caliber could be very bad day for ya.I strongly suggest some homework before you attempt load # 1, or ya may end up wishing you never saw that reloader if ya still around to talk about it.It can be very rewarding but you do have to pay attention and make sure you do it correctly not much room for error .Once you have been doing it a while you know the pressure limits of the firearm you are loading youll be good, for example, i load 300 grain hornady xtps for my ruger blackhawk hunting pistol in 45 long colt with a very heavy load 22 grains of win 296.,you take that same round and stick it into a colt single action army it will prolly explode into peices and take half ya hand with it.And may kill you and the one standing next to you.DO YA HOMEWORK my freind, would hate to see anyone hurt from improper loading .And i am sure you would not want to hurt anyone or yaself because you did not know what ya need to know when reloading .After that enjoy many yrs of loading ya own if they do not ban gunpowder sales soon who knows what is next with this pres.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:42 AM   #14
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You can handload the 9mm,40 S&W,45 ACP and 8MM with the same press, you will need a different set of Dies for each. Shotgun requires a different press.
Thanks for the info. I actually was noticing that the press for a shotgun is definitely a different purchase. But with the state of panic right now on ammo how hard is it to get powder, primers and bullets? And I am pretty sure that Corrosive ammo is NON reload-able?
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxImpactGuns View Post
Thanks for the info. I actually was noticing that the press for a shotgun is definitely a different purchase. But with the state of panic right now on ammo how hard is it to get powder, primers and bullets? And I am pretty sure that Corrosive ammo is NON reload-able?
There is some ammo out there that is corrosive and reloadable. The first that comes to mind is some .45 ACP from or before WWII.

What makes it corrosive is either the powder or primer (or both) used at the time.

Berdan primed cases can be reloaded, but special tools and care must be used when reloading. That is why people shy away from Berdan primed stuff. Berdan primers may or may not be corrosive. It depends on chemical composition.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxImpactGuns View Post
Thanks for the info. I actually was noticing that the press for a shotgun is definitely a different purchase. But with the state of panic right now on ammo how hard is it to get powder, primers and bullets? And I am pretty sure that Corrosive ammo is NON reload-able?
Seriously, slow down and READ some manuals. Again, you need to know the difference between berdan and boxer primed ammo. Once you get some knowledge about what's involved in reloading, you may decide to just buy manufactured ammo. The money you save versus the time, materials, learning curve may not be worth it. I mean it's just like making a ham sammich only these blow your fingers off if you don't put the mustard on right.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxImpactGuns View Post
Thanks for the info. I actually was noticing that the press for a shotgun is definitely a different purchase. But with the state of panic right now on ammo how hard is it to get powder, primers and bullets? And I am pretty sure that Corrosive ammo is NON reload-able?
Depend on the cal ,primers , and powder how available it is , for any 30 cal or 45 they are hard to find right now along with pistol primers and rifle powder flies off the shelf.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:44 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxImpactGuns View Post

Thanks for the info. I actually was noticing that the press for a shotgun is definitely a different purchase. But with the state of panic right now on ammo how hard is it to get powder, primers and bullets? And I am pretty sure that Corrosive ammo is NON reload-able?
Reloading is worth it for every second of time you use. Example is where i'm at in pa, i can't get most pistol or rifle rounds already loaded, but i do have sampler time get the stuff to reload.
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:07 AM   #19
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I will agree with everyone about getting a book and reading it. It is not difficult to made good safe ammo. But it is also not difficult to ruin a nice gun and spend a little time in the hospital.

As far as powder goes...Titegroup can be used for just about every pistol caliber there is. The recipes are all found at hodgdon.com. You can use small pistol or magnum small pistol primers. Either is fine. Do not start at max load ever. Always use the starting load or reduce max by 10% if the book does not have a starting load.

9mm is not too hard. Just get a book and read it. The follow all instructions to the letter. Overall length is very important. If you seat the bullet too deep you get too much pressure.

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Old 04-29-2013, 04:10 AM   #20
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A word of caution about scales and measuring

powder. Get a Dillon scale, or something which

will properly measure powder for pistol loads, especially in the

3 to 12 grain range.

I would not trust Lyman or Lee for scales.

It's too easy to mis-measure the powder.

I almost doubled the loads for my .45 with a cheap

scale, and if I had not caught it,

I would have been lucky only to

wreck the gun.

Seek some advice from someone who reloads. Get manuals,

I've got Hornady, Lyman, Speer, and The ABCs of reloading,

and don't consider it a waste, or that I have too much

information at hand.

Start-up costs are high, but this is a case where only the

best is a bargain.

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