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Old 06-09-2013, 09:31 PM   #11
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1. any headstamp case will work. yes people will the brass is different thickness, that is true. People will say that you need to reduce your loads by 10% when using Lake City or other military brass, if you don't there is no such thing as the reloading police. Ive loaded over 10,000 rds of 223/5.56 for both AR platform and single shot rifle, my powder charges stay the same for military or commercial brass, meaning i do not reduce because of military brass.

2. you may use any company primer you wish. Just make sure you get the right ones. all the boxes for 1 company look the same. for 223/5.56 your looking for Small Rifle Primers

3. yes any 55gr bullet will work with the load data. There will be other data for Cast bullets, but your only using Jacketed bullets so you will be fine.

Always write your recipes down, it makes it easier to reload from a piece of paper rather than a few manuals out on the table. I have everything on my Android phone, as well as a database here on my netbook of all my recipes for the 17 calibers i reload for. And i keep getting new calibers when i buy new toys, or my buddies do and they want their data saved.

If some give you data, take it with a gain of salt. Always refer to your manuals before you take reload someone elses recipe. yes it may have worked for them, or they are having a bad day and they told you to charge your 223 case with 30grs of powder rather than 24grs. That would probably make for a bad weekend, for both you and the gun.

Take it slow at first, only have 1 powder on the reloading bench at a time, only have the brass you want to reload out on the bench. Only have the bullets you want to reload out on the bench. Meaning, keep your reloading bench clean, super clean. Ive seen so many people on forums that charged 100 cases with the wrong powder, or put the wrong bullet in, or mixed powder, because they didn't have their bench clean.

Thats what i can think of right now for the little extras

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Old 06-09-2013, 10:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anna_Purna View Post
A 5.56 chamber has a longer leade to handle the higher pressure of the 5.56 loading, as shown. A .223 marked case and a 5.56 marked case should have identical dimensions. Brass thickness varies widely. You won`t find a considerable difference between brass thickness between 5.56 and.223 marked cases. You had better know that if you decide to produce 5.56 pressure amunition. Essentially 5.56 is .223 +P ammunition.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anna_Purna
for question number 2, until I here what you are reloading for.........

When I load for a bolt action rifle in 223 I use mostly CCI-400 primers.

When I load for a semi-auto it's usually a CCI #41 primer. According to CCI their #41 and #34 primers are magnum strength primers.

Note the CCI 400 and the Fed 200 have the thinnest cup. I do not use these in my AR's.

http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php
I will be loading for a AR, so a semi auto. So what makes he difference between the two?
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:34 AM   #14
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Thank you everyone for your input. Many questions answered! I'm very excited to start reloading and being able to shoot more.

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Old 06-10-2013, 03:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noahlanier9 View Post
I will be loading for a AR, so a semi auto. So what makes he difference between the two?
Because the Semi-autos have a free floating firing pic, you want to use a harder cup to help prevent 'slam fires'


This may help explain it better than I ever could:

http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=56422.msg774076#msg774076


The SPEER reloading manual is an excellent source of expert advice and states the following:

A slam-fire is the discharging of a cartridge in a firearm by the closing of the bolt without a pull of the trigger. In most cases this is a phenomenon associated with military-style semi-automatic rifles and handloaded ammunition. The slam-fire can be caused by a high primer or by a heavy, unsprung firing pin. High primers contribute to slam-fires because the closing bolt drives the high primer cup against the anvil. All handloads must be checked for high primers; this caution is even more important when shooting military-style semi-auto rifles.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:17 AM   #16
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I seldom reach maximum suggested loads any more. Not worth the extra time to test fire and reload. Don't need the extra stress on the firearms either.
It's easy to sort the loaded cases by headstamp and shoot them in sorted groups.

If you are looking for top accuracy you may want to spend the extra time. I don't bother on my reloads. I'll keep my favorite cases for me and then let friends and family shoot the miscellaneous headstamps. I try to introduce as many new folks to shooting, so I have no problem with the dirty old military brass. Low loads also help minimize the mouth splitting or time spent annealing.

I went through several thousand last year before the 'shortage'. All were reloads with the same bullet, powder and primer. All were lot's of fun with friends and family.

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