Hey every one. Now since ive been reloading for little over a year i though i would start molding some of my own bullets. Just for my 30-30 to start. I got the lyman 160gr 2cavity mold. I have the lyman big dipper casting pot and the thermometer, fux, and tin to add to my lead. The lead i got is for an old timmer at work thats been doin bullet molds for a long he said it only needs about 1% tin to bring it to rifle hardness.
Moving on to the cold side of molding i have the lyman 4500 lube sizer and correct sizing dies for my barrel. And the lube ofcorse.
what i need help on is do i need to gas check the round? I mean the only thing im going to use these round for is range time.
The rest of the spec are:
Marlin 336c iron sights
.309 dia groves
Lyman sizing die #2766477
Lyman bullet #311672
Lyman super moly
Any help and advice is greatly aprecated.
Tin will only marginally add to the hardness of the alloy. You really need to test the lead to determine the hardness. For rifles I use a 50/50 blend of wheel weights to linotype and water quench the bullets straight out of the mold. I gas check is recommended for most rifle applications.
Micro grooved Marlins have some difficulty with cast bullets. Someone will be along shortly to give you some tips. I believe they need to be at least .001 oversize and very hard. You generally need to keep the velocity down (I believe under 1600)
Marlin "micor-groove" and cast bullets.....is almost like "jumping in the deep end" of the pool,haha.Good luck,some will shoot OK at best and others "just never take".
Go with the gas checks,and medium velocities/pressure.Probably start at .309 and be prepared to go up to .310.Big caution right here.......you need to be aware of what the chamber dimensions are,specifically the neck area.By loading a .310 bullet you are effectively creating a "tight neck" situation.Can't say until its measured.Three ways off top of my head to measure are....
>Chamber cast with Cerrosafe,undertsanding the product.....and mic accordingly.
>Small hole gages,again understanding of how these things work and getting good/repeatable measurements.
>Mic spent cases from that gun's chamber.
So,once you have all the safety measuring in line.......whats wrong with a tight neck?Not a whole lot.BR shooter's swear by them.But they come with a price,that price is labor and mindful attention to exacting details.For instance,you can "turn" case necks...which in theory,improves their coencintricity....and run a .310 or maybe even a .311 bullet.Don't take that as an endorsement,just sayin with proper measuring and a nice dose of engineering,theres several ways to approach things.
Be mindful of your O.A.L.,should be mostly cover'd in any good loading manual.Talking here on the relationship of bullets shape(ogive)and the chamber leade.Theres a twist with cast bullets in that,many moulds are designed as "bore riding".You're somewhat limited by the rifle's action on feeding and straying away from published OAL.Spend some quality time reading about jamming bullets.Be extra careful.Just understand the relationship between OAL and chamber pressures.And you'll get some good info looking at pistol rounds at this point.Study how seating depth affects pressure.
Pressure isn't a bad thing....when its understood,read up on it.Which leads to a question,what powder?
I had a gunsmith do a bore chamber and bore cast and the groves measure .309. For powder ive been using imr 4064, win748 and cfe223. I have always been worried about pressure. But i never even touch the max loads. I fallow 3 books and always cross reference evey thing i do. U said that col might play a roll and could mess with pressure. To stray off the casting for a second could having a normal 150gr rdns bullet seat .010 deeper or shalower make a big difference in pressure? i alwayd seem to have a few round do that to me in a run of loads.
Yes,seating depth is critical to pressure.....as are a lot of things.
Cool deal on cross-referencing loading manuals/tables.Look for compressed loads.They,just like extremely reduced loads give me the heeby jeeby's.Yet,they've been done for...well,ever.
Looking at powder burn rate as a curve.....you don't want spikes.Certain powder/seat depth/bullet combos,can go off the chart with a very minor amt. of change to any one setting.Keep studying your load tables.....you'll see some combos NOT recommended.Look at some Alliant,Unique loads for cast bullets(rifles).....I just don't go there,it's not worth it.
Don't know if they're still available?But,powder manufacturers used to send free load guides out for the asking.They're only for that co's powder...duh,and aren't nearly as complete as a "real" manual...but hey,its one more cross-ref.
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