[CamoToe1]

This was still bothering me so I took a few more measurements.

The difference between my rifles spent cases and my resized cases(per die instructions) is between .009 and .010". I assume the difference being how much Camming action I applied when making the batch(whether 1/8 turn or 1/4 turn after touching shell holder). The difference between max length and min length on dillon case gauge seems to measure .008". When a spent case is inserted in the gauge it is about .001" proud of max. My resizing was taking a case from .001 over max to .001-.002" under min. I measured all factory rounds on hand. Of the 5 types I tried most were in the middle and one was on the minimum (Hornady steel match).

These measurements were taken using the depth gauge on my calipers(the slide portion that protrudes from the end)and the Dillon case gauge as a reference.

I've read the ABC's and understand the concepts and risks. Are there any experienced reloader's out there that feel strongly one way or another about the safety, life span, etc of this brass? I ask since I find it hard to believe I'm the only newbie to follow the directions on the box and push the shoulder back too far.

[anm2_man]

About 22 years ago when I started reloading bottle neck .223 rounds, I did the same thing that you have done. Did I shoot those rounds "NO". I demilled all of them and scraped the brass. But I only had about 100 of them. The choice is yours. I would imagine a lot of FTE's, maybe FTF's.

Originally Posted by CamoToe1

This was still bothering me so I took a few more measurements.

The difference between my rifles spent cases and my resized cases(per die instructions) is between .009 and .010". I assume the difference being how much Camming action I applied when making the batch(whether 1/8 turn or 1/4 turn after touching shell holder). The difference between max length and min length on dillon case gauge seems to measure .008". When a spent case is inserted in the gauge it is about .001" proud of max. My resizing was taking a case from .001 over max to .001-.002" under min. I measured all factory rounds on hand. Of the 5 types I tried most were in the middle and one was on the minimum (Hornady steel match).

These measurements were taken using the depth gauge on my calipers(the slide portion that protrudes from the end)and the Dillon case gauge as a reference.

I've read the ABC's and understand the concepts and risks. Are there any experienced reloader's out there that feel strongly one way or another about the safety, life span, etc of this brass? I ask since I find it hard to believe I'm the only newbie to follow the directions on the box and push the shoulder back too far.

[clr8ter]

I think by "smoked" he means he held the case over a flame so carbon coats the case, so when he puts it in a gauge, he can see where the gage rubs on the case, causing a line in the carbon......

[samnev]

Originally Posted by CamoToe1

Not sure what you mean by smoke a case. Please expand on this.

I took once fired brass from my chamber and slowly adjusted my dies out until my sized cases reach the top mark on my case length gauge. As long as my gun remains reliable this should prolong the life of my brass, right?

Sorry I left out the part to smoke the case with the carbon from a match then as you screw down the die in small increments you will be able to see where the die has rubbed off the carbon. When it gets to the neck shoulder junction you should be at the correct place to set your dies. The case should check out at the top of the case length gauge which checks the OAL but just as importantly at the bottom of he gauge which checks the shoulder set back. If not enough the case will stick out over the upper most grove. If to short under the bottom most groove. Yes if it checks out in the CLG it should prolong the case life unless you shoot hot loads which constantly stretch the brass. The more the brass stretches the shorter the case life. I hope this helps.