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Old 02-21-2013, 04:26 AM   #11
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Winchester 296 and H110 are the same powder.

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Old 02-22-2013, 04:01 AM   #12
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If you are looking for a press hornady has some nice presses that are fairly cheap. I have just a single stage press but now a good progressive press looks like it would have been nice to speed things up.

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Old 02-22-2013, 04:15 PM   #13
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I am looking into some single stage startup kits from Lee,and one kit has a "safety prime" and one has an "auto prime",I got an idea of how both work but what do you guys like better?

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Old 02-22-2013, 05:29 PM   #14
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IMO, I like using a hand primer if I'm not going to be loading a bucket full. It gives me more "feel" seating the primer. The one I use now is made by RCBS but I used one from Lee for years till I broke it. They both have a primer tray that you just dump 100 primers in and shake them to get them with the anvil side up and put the cover on and your ready to go. (actually you will need to use your finger or something to help get them all turned up right.) If you going to load mostly 44 Mag/Spec, 444 Marlin then I don't think you need calipers for now unless you already have some or just want them. Almost all the bullets you will use for those calibers have a cannelure/crimping groove and thats where you will seat the bullet to before applying a nice roll crimp. Even if you get a power measure your gonna need a scale of some kind to set the measure plus I like to double check the charge about every 10 rounds. I like the electronic ones best. I have one from RCBS that I have used for years but I also have one from Frankford Arsenal thats about the size of an ipod that cost around $20 and it works great. The classic powder for 44 mag. is 2400 but it does burn a little dirty. As far as primers you may need large pistol for the Spec. and large pistol magnum in the Mag. or both may call for Magnum primers. Us what the manual calls for cause it makes a difference in the pressure curve. Btw you can't have too many manuals. I just went and counted and I have around 25, but I like books. And another btw, I wouldn't recommend reloading for anyone else. Damn, time for me to STFU. Good luck.

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Old 02-22-2013, 06:09 PM   #15
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IMO, I like using a hand primer if I'm not going to be loading a bucket full. It gives me more "feel" seating the primer. The one I use now is made by RCBS but I used one from Lee for years till I broke it. They both have a primer tray that you just dump 100 primers in and shake them to get them with the anvil side up and put the cover on and your ready to go. (actually you will need to use your finger or something to help get them all turned up right.) If you going to load mostly 44 Mag/Spec, 444 Marlin then I don't think you need calipers for now unless you already have some or just want them. Almost all the bullets you will use for those calibers have a cannelure/crimping groove and thats where you will seat the bullet to before applying a nice roll crimp. Even if you get a power measure your gonna need a scale of some kind to set the measure plus I like to double check the charge about every 10 rounds. I like the electronic ones best. I have one from RCBS that I have used for years but I also have one from Frankford Arsenal thats about the size of an ipod that cost around $20 and it works great. The classic powder for 44 mag. is 2400 but it does burn a little dirty. As far as primers you may need large pistol for the Spec. and large pistol magnum in the Mag. or both may call for Magnum primers. Us what the manual calls for cause it makes a difference in the pressure curve. Btw you can't have too many manuals. I just went and counted and I have around 25, but I like books. And another btw, I wouldn't recommend reloading for anyone else. Damn, time for me to STFU. Good luck.
thanks for the heads up and advice,I have a ways to go before i'm comfortable to get started,but I have made leaps and bounds in the last week in understanding the process.If it matters at all,the only gun i'm going to fire the reloads out of is a S&W 629 6" if that makes any difference in what sort of load I should think about making.I want to make some self defense loads and hunting loads,probably both in 240 grain,I'm thinking a 240gr @ 1,000fps and a 240gr@ 1,400 fps.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:35 PM   #16
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thanks for the heads up and advice,I have a ways to go before i'm comfortable to get started,but I have made leaps and bounds in the last week in understanding the process.If it matters at all,the only gun i'm going to fire the reloads out of is a S&W 629 6" if that makes any difference in what sort of load I should think about making.I want to make some self defense loads and hunting loads,probably both in 240 grain,I'm thinking a 240gr @ 1,000fps and a 240gr@ 1,400 fps.
Thats a good gun to start with. The first gun I ever reloaded for was a S&W 629 with 8 3/8" barrel. For the lighter load try some cast lead bullets. They're cheaper and at 1000 fps they should work just fine. I cast my own but you can buy what you need. That is if you can find them during this panic buying. I have 2 bottom pour pots and probably over 1000 lbs of wheel weights so I should be covered there. You will develop your own style over time but if I plan on loading a bunch of handgun ammo I use the Dillion 550B. I can pretty easy do 300 rds/hr. But most of the time I use a Lyman T-Mag press. I usually just put 50 sized and primed cases in a loading block and set the measure to drop a charge about a grain less that what I want and then use a trickler to bring it up so the full charge. After I get all 50 cases charged I check them with a flashlight to make sure all the charges look right and then seat the bullets and either roll or taper crimp depending on if it for a revolver or pistol. When you pick a power keep in mind that a ball or flake powder will meter through a measure better than a stick powder. And another thing to think about is if you pick a powder charge that over half fills the case you can never mess up and double charge a case cause it will run over. That should get your attention every time. Its all fun.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:09 PM   #17
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The 240 grain is a good hunting bullet.
If you're going to use that 29 for defense, I think you would be better served with 180 grain bullets.

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Old 02-22-2013, 08:38 PM   #18
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Default For defense

For defense I would use factory ammo. No reason to hand some lawyer the argument that factory ammo just wasn't deadly enough for you. You had to load up your own super dupper nuclear dum dum punk terminator load.

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Old 02-22-2013, 08:56 PM   #19
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For defense I would use factory ammo. No reason to hand some lawyer the argument that factory ammo just wasn't deadly enough for you. You had to load up your own super dupper nuclear dum dum punk terminator load.

That's a very good point. Still like 180 grain bullets, though. Hand loads to duplicate the factory defense loads for practice.

I get 1650 FPS from my factory and hand loads in my 7 1/2 inch Redhawk.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:56 PM   #20
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Default 180 grain bullet

I agree with the factory 180 grain for self defense. It would be easier to control so you could reload practice loads and keep factory foder for punks and zombies. Keep the 240 and 300 grain stuff for yetis.

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