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I finally put together some ammo!


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Old 04-04-2012, 08:14 PM   #11
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I only measured the first few and did not measure my brass at all, since it was all once fired by me. Not that the brass would matter to OAL, just bullet seating depth. As far as I can figure, variation on OAL would all be due to equipment tolerances and making sure you get the ram to the top of the stroke each time. I will measure mine when I get home and let you know. Have you measured your's?
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:55 AM   #12
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Okay, I measured a set of 16 of the rounds I reloaded for OAL. Of those, the max was 1.2610 and the min was 1.2580. The average was 1.2593, and the standard deviation was 0.0010.

Some of that deviation is measurement accuracy I am afraid. Using cheap digital calipers which I only halfway trust, and I always measure twice!
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Old 04-06-2012, 03:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Staestc View Post
Thanks. I got the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Kit with a 38/357 RCBS die set to learn with. But prior to that I read every reloading sticky on this forum and everthing else I could find on the internet. Also prior to that I ordered and read the ABC's of Reloading as recommended by many here. And also prior to that I watched every youtube video on reloading I could find, with emphasis on single stage presses. I did not have anybody to show me either, but it's not really that hard.

They are apparently discontinuing the kit, so prices have really dropped. Natchez has it for $269 right now in stock, and if you add RCBS dies and shell holder and go over $300 RCBS has a $50 rebate. I got the dies for .45 ACP for my birthday. I already had a digital micrometer, which is something that you will need, but it does not have to be digital, just accurate.

Seated to deep is dangerous, btw! The kit comes with the Speer loading manual, which is a pretty good manual IMO. I adjusted my seating die to seat the bullet to a depth that gave me an overall length identical to the Winchester White Box ammo that I had on hand, that used a similar bullet. That length was within the length limits stated in the reloading manual.

It's a lot of fun to reload, and if you like building things I suggest you give it a try! However, saving money on ammunition is not going to happen for a long time, unless you ignore the cost of the equipment. With the kit, the dies, the shell holders, the tumbler I picked up, etc., I figure that my 40 rounds of .45 ACP that I just loaded cost me about $16.60 a piece!

Good luck if you get into it. Everybody here will help with any questions or issue you come up against.
$16.60 Each! I assume that includes your loader,dies, everything. I usually don't include the price of the loader. I figure the loader and dies will last a long time and it would be hard to depreciate that cost. I normally just add up the powder,case,bullet,primer. Your 40 rounds would be around 24.00 @ .60each my way. This is just my way of doing it. Not saying yours is wrong.

I need to start back reloading. Good Luck and have Fun!
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Old 04-06-2012, 06:38 PM   #14
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It was tongue in cheek! Lol. I included everything.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:31 PM   #15
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Don't worry about price now. The more you load and the more loads you get out of your brass, the cheaper it gets. At least now you can make ammunition that is tailored to your specific firearm and your own needs and desires.
Hope we hear next that you are into bottle neck rifle. This gives you a reason to buy new guns so you will have another one to load for.
I haven't fired more than a handful of factory loaded rounds in the last 40 years not excluding .22s
Have fun and above all be safe.
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:31 PM   #16
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I'm not worried much about price. I'm just one of those guys that loves to build things. Anything. And I collect hobbies!

If anyone is interested, I did go back to my spread sheet. This group of .45 Auto 230 gr FMJ-RN cost 32 cents apiece. That's powder, bullet, and primer. I already had the brass.

Now my LSWC bullets have come for both .45 and .357, so cost will come down even further
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:52 PM   #17
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Now you need to get a Lee bullet mold, sizing set and a lead melting pot and make your own bullets using tire weights.
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:34 PM   #18
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Funny you should say that. I downloaded and read The Fryxell Book last week! For anybody thinking of getting in to casting, I highly recommend this book, and the price is right!

I have actually cast before, just not bullets. I have several old battleship and soldier molds, and have done fishing jigs and weights in the past. What I don''t have is a bottom pour pot which seems like a big plus, so am looking at the Lee 20 lb. pot.

Of course, I need to load up the .45 and .357 bullets I bought too!
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:53 PM   #19
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That is cool I helped a friend with his shotgun reloading he has mold that looked like a 12 gauge pellet. A full ounce in that bad boy it hit like a ton of bricks. We even turned a couple around with the cup to the front and it whistled all the way to destruction.
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Old 04-08-2012, 05:18 PM   #20
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Have been reloading for years and years, rifle, pistol, and shotgun ammo. I find that reloading is almost as enjoyable as shooting them . A while back I sprang for a couple of Russian 1895 Nagant pistols and although that ammo is anything but cheap, I got on the internet and found how to reload properly that brass (7.62X38r , Privi Brand with boxer primers.) The Russian Ammo, also expensive has berdan primers which requires an expensive tool for removal and the primers are expensive when they can be found.

I Use CCI small pistol primers, Hornady XTP JHP .32 cal. bullets, resized to .309 , 3.5 grains of Trail Boss Powder and they are accurate and hard hitting rascals !
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