Have you ever wanted to kick yourself? - Page 2
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:52 PM   #11
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Not to me,Spitty
I can still go out another .020" with these if I want. LOL
I'm just busting your balls. I move my handloads around too.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:11 PM   #12
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After 40 years or so of reloading, I have come up w/ a simple and fool proof way of keeping track of my reloads just for the very reason of what happened to you. What do I do if I spill the box of shells and they get all mixed up? Color code them. Get yourself a set of permanent markers of different colors. Brand is not important as long as they wont rub off. I prefer Staedtler Lumacolor made in Germany. Available from art suppliers on the net. They are a little pricey, but the work great. Also, get your self some kind of spiral note book and log in each load. I write something like this for example: .243, 90 grain Speer, 40 grains IMR4350, 09/06/12. Then, I mark a dot next to the caliber on the page (let's say I used the red color marker), and then color the primer red after each shell is loaded. Now if I go up or down a grain, I switch to a different color, etc. and on and on. I may have 4 or 5 different loads for one caliber and one bullet. So, they all look alike. But, by looking at the primer, I can tell instantly what load I have. It works like a charm and has never failed me. If I spill all my loads and they get all mixed up, so what? They are easy to sort out. Try it. You'll never have to start over again.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:20 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by cottontop
After 40 years or so of reloading, I have come up w/ a simple and fool proof way of keeping track of my reloads just for the very reason of what happened to you. What do I do if I spill the box of shells and they get all mixed up? Color code them. Get yourself a set of permanent markers of different colors. Brand is not important as long as they wont rub off. I prefer Staedtler Lumacolor made in Germany. Available from art suppliers on the net. They are a little pricey, but the work great. Also, get your self some kind of spiral note book and log in each load. I write something like this for example: .243, 90 grain Speer, 40 grains IMR4350, 09/06/12. Then, I mark a dot next to the caliber on the page (let's say I used the red color marker), and then color the primer red after each shell is loaded. Now if I go up or down a grain, I switch to a different color, etc. and on and on. I may have 4 or 5 different loads for one caliber and one bullet. So, they all look alike. But, by looking at the primer, I can tell instantly what load I have. It works like a charm and has never failed me. If I spill all my loads and they get all mixed up, so what? They are easy to sort out. Try it. You'll never have to start over again.
cottontop
O.0
You are a genius.

I will be loading my first batch of -06 in a couple weeks when i can afford all the components again.

I have 40-50 cases and need to buy the powder, primers, and bullets.

I am planning on 2-5 different loads with 2 different powders.

I am going and marking my cases now!
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:23 AM   #14
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If it would have only been 1 type of powder,then you can weigh each cartridge on a scale,and get most of them figured out.
But since I had 2 different powder's with different burn rates,I wanted to make sure which was which.
These are test loads for accuracy,I want them to be correctly done or there's no sense in even shooting them.
Even at this, weighing each round is only a guess at best. Brass is not of consistent weight, neither are bullets. You can have several grains of variation in identical rounds let alone rounds of various powder weights. No, you did good, pull em and start over.

I just take a fine tipped Sharpie and write the load info on the case., works for me.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:30 AM   #15
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Even at this, weighing each round is only a guess at best. Brass is not of consistent weight, neither are bullets. You can have several grains of variation in identical rounds let alone rounds of various powder weights. No, you did good, pull em and start over.

I just take a fine tipped Sharpie and write the load info on the case., works for me.
That is very true,if you don't weigh your brass and seperate it.
In over 30yrs of reloading,this was the first time I knocked an open box of ammo off the bench.
It's funny now,but I was really pissed when it happened.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:58 AM   #16
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Even at this, weighing each round is only a guess at best. Brass is not of consistent weight, neither are bullets. You can have several grains of variation in identical rounds let alone rounds of various powder weights. No, you did good, pull em and start over.

I just take a fine tipped Sharpie and write the load info on the case., works for me.

After the case is fired and you go to reload it again, how do you get the sharpie markings off the case? Will tumbling remove it? Do you have to take an extra step and remove it with some chemical like acetone? With my marking the primer color-code method, the color is gone when you resize the case.
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:46 PM   #17
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After the case is fired and you go to reload it again, how do you get the sharpie markings off the case? Will tumbling remove it? Do you have to take an extra step and remove it with some chemical like acetone? With my marking the primer color-code method, the color is gone when you resize the case.
cottontop

Tumbling in Walnut takes it right off.
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Old 09-08-2012, 12:26 AM   #18
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When working up a load, I mark the bases of the cases with a magic marker and create a cheat sheet that explains the marks. black / for one load, black X for another load, solid black for another load, red / for another load, red X for another load, etc

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