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Old 03-25-2013, 01:36 AM   #1
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Default hard cast .44mag

hey friends, i'm thinking of casting some bullets for my .44mag. do u guys think i'd be good to use ww or should i get some linotype lead? i'd like to shoot these out of my revolver as well as a H&R rifle. i'm thinking i'd get a mold for either 200gr or 240gr and with lube grooves and no gas checks. feedback please...thanks!

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Old 03-25-2013, 01:51 AM   #2
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Many will tell you to use very hard alloy if you go above 1000fps, but I have had good results with my 357 and 10mm out to 1500 (no gas checks), with basically WW hard lead. Much of my supply is a mix of range recovered, and WW, and will test out between 15 to 18 BHN. The key to limit leading is what ever you use, size to at least .001, and preferably .002 over bore. Don't go by published bore figures, slug your gun to be absolutely sure. Be advised that S&W puts 5 grooves in so measurement can be somewhat tricky.

I have had mixed results with harder lead, and have used water bath and heat treatment. More leading was usually the result, so I have discontinued the extra steps. That has been my experience, and as an engineer by trade I do love to experiment. Keep good notes and good luck!

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Old 03-25-2013, 02:43 AM   #3
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I use straight ww, but I like gas checks over about 1200 FPS.

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Old 03-25-2013, 12:37 PM   #4
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Default Lyman #2 alloy

I usually use Lyman #2 alloy which is 9lbs. ww and 1 lb. 50/50 bar solder and for the .44 mag my mold is for gas check bullets. I gotta size and lube them anyway so might as well clamp on a gas check.

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Old 03-25-2013, 10:19 PM   #5
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Adding Tin is a very good idea. Straight (clip on) wheel weights are pretty hard, especially when dropped directly from the mold to cool water. Avoid the stick on weights as they are nearly pure lead (99+%).

Tin will help with hardness (a little) and make a much nicer bullet. Tin helps with the "flow" of the alloy. 2-3% tin will yield a bullet that is shiny and has nice crisp edges. The Lyman #2 alloy will work well at nearly any pistol velocities. If you want to push it to 1600-1700 out of a rifle, you will be happier with a gas check.

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Old 03-26-2013, 01:26 PM   #6
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i guess i need to get a bhn gauge. what's a good way to add tin?

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Old 03-26-2013, 01:40 PM   #7
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I use straight ww because I'm a tightwad. I generally keep the velocity of my .44's around 800fps. I've never had a problem w/ leading.

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Old 03-26-2013, 01:41 PM   #8
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WW alloy with a small amount of tin or linotype no GC below 1,500 FPS. WW alloy can vary in content and BHN so you need a Hardness tester to really know what you have.

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Old 03-26-2013, 09:52 PM   #9
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Th most cost effective way to add tin is to get some 50/50 bar solder from some place like Rotometals. I just add a 1 lb bar to a full pot of wheel weights and have good luck.That gives about 2.5% Tin in a 20 lb pot. That is plenty of Tin.

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Old 03-27-2013, 06:31 PM   #10
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does the lee hardness gauge work good?

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