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ak-77 12-02-2008 04:18 AM

Was this a good deal???
New to the forum, and going to learn how to reload ammunition soon. I am new to shooting. I got my first pistol, a Glock 23 (40 s&w) a couple of years ago, and just got a Smith & Wesson 1911PD. In Alaska, you don't need a concealed permit to carry concealed, so both of my pistols are fairly small for this purpose.

I haven't bought a press yet, but will probably spring for the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme kit, but in the meantime, I purchased some empty brass. Being new to this hobby, I don't know if it was a good. Sounded really cheap, so I jumped on it and figured I wouldn't be out a whole lot if it wasn't a good deal.

I got 2000 45 ACP pieces of brass (tumbled and old primer removed) and 2500 40 S&W pieces (tumbled and old primer removed) for $100.00. I bought off of craigslist and the old dude I got them from said they were once fired, but I guess you never really know for sure. He said he is not going to press his bullets anymore, so he needed to get rid of all this brass.

They are all different brands (Winchester, Blazer, CCI, PMC, Federal, etc.)

If anyone can give me a hand, that would be appreciated. I need to know if this was a fair price and are any of these brands non-reloadable?


jeepcreep927 12-02-2008 05:21 AM

If you paid a c note for ALL of that, and it's already deprimed and tumbled: you got a good deal. Anything that is brass or nickel plated is reloadable. Anything that is aluminum is not (CCI Blazer).

robocop10mm 12-02-2008 12:39 PM

There is brass Blaser now. It is reloadable. The aluminum stuff is not. If it has already been de-primed and has one flash hole, it is good to go.

You will find the Glock is hard on brass, especially if you load near the max end of the spectrum. The unsupported area of the chamber at the bottom, adjacent to the feed ramp allows the brass to bulge at the base. You may find the resizing die incapable of sizing far enough down to correct this.

There are only two machines capable of correcting this. One is the Case Pro. About a grand but does a super job of putting the brass back into spec. The other is the Case Master from Magma. It forces the brass, base first all the way through a die, dropping it out the bottom. This will correct the problem, temporarily, as the Glock will do it again the next time it is fired. Either will also cause the brass to become work hardened and can become brittle. This may take 4-5 loadings, or it may take 10-12. It is impossible to predict.

BTW, I have one of the Magma machines and it works great.

ak-77 12-02-2008 06:54 PM

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Thanks for responding. Good info on how the Glock affects the brass, but honestly, I mainly got this as a cheap source of 45 brass for my 1911, which I haven't fired yet. If all he offered was the 45, I probably would still have bought them. Looking round the net, I found a bag of 500 NEW brass cases for a 45 for $100.00 + shipping on Midwayusa. I attached a photo of the buckets. I'm pretty stoked. Can't wait to get my press and books to make my ammo.

robocop10mm 12-02-2008 07:54 PM

Remember to stick with jacketed (or at least plated) bullets in the Glock. Unjacketed (plain cast or swaged lead) bullets are a major no no in a factory Glock barrel.

Zappa 12-14-2008 05:11 PM


Originally Posted by robocop10mm (Post 53790)
Remember to stick with jacketed (or at least plated) bullets in the Glock. Unjacketed (plain cast or swaged lead) bullets are a major no no in a factory Glock barrel.

This is true for a factory Glock barrel, but I'd recommend getting an aftermarket barrel such as a KKM Precision. I got one for my G27 and I'm very pleased with it. The chamber is much tighter and fully supports the case, so no more bulges, and it has conventional rifling and shoots lead all day long without a problem.

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