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Old 12-29-2012, 03:03 AM   #21
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Same way around me. The one LGS had some decent prices on primers/powder. The only other option is Bass Pro. Looking at the prices I might as well buy factory. I've talked to other reloaders in my area and there is a place in Pekin, Il but to get the best prices they all buy by the 1000.
The stores around here only carry 1 lb cans of powder, 100 count boxes of bullets, etc., and very, very few dies sets or accessories. All of which are way overpriced. For the powder it is OK if you are building up a load to have only 1 lb, but that goes away pretty fast once you have a recipe that works (and it can be different for two of the same guns- but generally is pretty close)

I get powder here (be sure to maximize your order so it is close to 50 lbs so you use all of the hazmat fee! You can order for a bunch of reloaders if you need to) http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/

Bulk bullets I keep my eyes open on http://www.natchezss.com/

There are a couple of others out there- has anyone put together a Sticky of online suppliers?
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:11 AM   #22
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Btw, what is the take on reloading with lead bullets? I see there is an extra step listed in the book but what about the barrel?

The Lyman book lists them and the one LGS I was in carries 500 packs in a couple calibers that I don't yet shoot but the are considerably cheaper. They had prices like $25-27 per 500.
Lead bullets are great depending on what you are shooting. Higher velocities require a gas check (little copper plate on the base to prevent cutting- which causes leading of the barrel). Stock Glock barrels cannot be used with cast bullets, but you can get aftermarket barrels that will drop in and shoot lead just fine. I don't think you can use any micro-groove barrel with cast lead (if that is not correct would someone please clarify).

Your .45 and 9mm (as long as they are not Glocks with stock barrels- I shoot cast lead in my .40S&W Glocks with AM barrels no problem) should be fine with cast lead.

You can also get into casting your own which is another whole hobby within itself.
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:28 PM   #23
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www.powerbondbullets.com. They are a plated bullet. Cheap and clean shooting. Wasn't a fan of lead. Had to clean out my dies frequently and hated cleaning barrels. Decided I pay a little extra to cut clean time.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:47 PM   #24
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For what it is, the Lee kit is ok. I have replaced the scale & the Powder measure with Redding products.
Dies is dies for the most part, some will argue that point, but that's my opinion (for the pistol stuff anyway.) I have RCBS & Hornady primarily. I have Lee Factory Crimp Dies for everything as well. My .223 set is the full Lee 3 die set. They all work fine. Spending big dollars on general purpose dies is a choice, not a necessity. Worth noting, the Hornady lock nuts will interfere with each other on the 4 hole turrets, I just ground them down a bit and life was good.

The ABC's of Reloading is a worthwhile purchase as well.
Overkill, your reply is great info.
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Old 12-31-2012, 03:32 AM   #25
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I decided to get my new Lyman 1200 out of the box and clean 50 cases so that when my press arrives I've got some clean cases ready to go. I bought a container of walnut shell media and everything seems great with that. I had won some Dillon polish on another site but figured I would save that.

Started looking my brass again and comparing the primer to the small pistol primers again. All of my brass is Federal redbox. These look to be the exact same size. What is the diameter difference between large and small pistol primers?

Also, 2 other questions.

In reading alot of old threads I see that some people deprime before cleaning, is this a matter of preference because the Lyman book has me cleaning and then depriming?

I also see that some people have turret and progressive presses but keep a single stage setup for just depriming. Is this for speed of reloading or just being used by the people that prefer to deprime and then clean?

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Old 12-31-2012, 03:58 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by aandabooks View Post
I decided to get my new Lyman 1200 out of the box and clean 50 cases so that when my press arrives I've got some clean cases ready to go. I bought a container of walnut shell media and everything seems great with that. I had won some Dillon polish on another site but figured I would save that.

Started looking my brass again and comparing the primer to the small pistol primers again. All of my brass is Federal redbox. These look to be the exact same size. What is the diameter difference between large and small pistol primers?

Also, 2 other questions.

In reading alot of old threads I see that some people deprime before cleaning, is this a matter of preference because the Lyman book has me cleaning and then depriming?

I also see that some people have turret and progressive presses but keep a single stage setup for just depriming. Is this for speed of reloading or just being used by the people that prefer to deprime and then clean?
I resize and deprime in one of my Rockchuckers then tumble. The only problem is that the corn cob media sometimes gets stuck in the primer pocket. One of the reasons I do it this way is that with rifle cases you must lube before resizing and the lube can affect your charge if there is any inside the case. I guess I could resize, tumble to clean any lube off, then deprime in a separate action.
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:14 PM   #27
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45 Auto has large primer MOST of the time. Some cases have small primers. The only ones that I have seen it on was fed, but I bet others are doing it as well. I have talked to guys that are just reloading large and guys that are just reloading small. As for me, it just makes for another group to sort my brass into, but they still work fine.

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Old 12-31-2012, 07:56 PM   #28
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I tumble all brass first before it goes to any of my presses. I've got a media separator that I run brass through after I shut the tumbler off. It does a super job of knocking all of the media out of everything. Even the little chunks of walnut in the primer. Before I got this life changing cheap must have piece of equipment I would take a spaghetti strainer and slosh them around in that till i got most of the media out of the brass then I'd stand at my bench for an hour maybe more and pick up 2 or 3 cases at a time and tap out all the dust and chunks if there were any. On pistol I don't clean primer pockets. I just deprime, size and go. +1 about the observation on the small primers. I made that mistake once. Bought a box of 50 federals and mixed the brass up in about 200 other large primer brass. Then turned around and dumped it into a 5 gallon bucket with the rest of my clean brass! All was well till a loading session on my press (that's set up for large primer). Luckily you know in a hurry when something isn't right on a press.
When I'm loading pistol ammo the case goes from the bucket straight into press and goes around the circle of life. Rifle though ill deprime all brass then trim, chamfer, clean primer pocket and swage if need be. Then it goes through my dillon or if I'm making match stuff it goes to the rock chucker.

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Old 12-31-2012, 09:14 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by jebsca
45 Auto has large primer MOST of the time. Some cases have small primers. The only ones that I have seen it on was fed, but I bet others are doing it as well. I have talked to guys that are just reloading large and guys that are just reloading small. As for me, it just makes for another group to sort my brass into, but they still work fine.
Blazer Brass .45's also use small primers. I sort them as I deprime so I can load them when I switch over to 9's and .40's.
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:09 PM   #30
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Thats what ive been using is a spaghetti strainer after I take them out of the tumbler and its working for now. I thought it was a good idea a few nights ago when I did my first batch of .357's at like 3am.

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