[seedy]

When I am reloading 9mm, 40S&W and 45ACP i don't bother to sort my brass by manufactorer. After I clean it I go through the brass and if there isn't any splits or those pesky primer rings I use them. I normally load a grain below max so I don't worry about the pressure. As for accuracy well my cz75B, glock 23 and smith4506 though accurate they aren't exactly target guns. I often finds piles of pistol brass from other shooters and one man's trash is another 's treasure. Evan with revolvers , though much easier to keep track of I'll mix them up if I'm shooting cast lead at moderate velocities. If I'm shooting XTP HPs at max loads then I'll make sure the brass is uniform. If someone was new to reloading what advice would you give? CD

[G21.45]

Originally Posted by seedy

.... If someone were new to reloading what advice would you give? CD

OK, how about, sort your brass by case lot and/or manufacturer. Don't attempt to reload split cases, nor cases with enlarged heads or separation rings. Don't load any heavier than you need to for reliable operation and acceptable accuracy.

(How'd I do?)

[robocop10mm]

For the .45 I sort out the nickle plated and Federal from the rest. The nickle and Fed get used for match brass and the others are practice brass. After loading the assorted brass gets boxed up according to headstamp to minimize the variance between rounds.

.40 gets sorted in much the same way.

In 9mm the Fed brass gets extra attention (champhered, primer pocket cleaned) and the NATO (generally WCC) gets used for +p loads.

.38 spl Win and FC +p cases are used for +p loads, all others are left to standard pressure ammo.

.357 mag Win and FC are used for JHP magnum loads, all others are used for mid range loads with 150 gr SWC's

10mm is sorted after loading and boxed according to headstamp.

[cpttango30]

I do not sort anything.

For my rifles I only shoot one type of case
308= Remington
223= Winchester
6.5x57= winchester
30-06= Remington.
45acp= what ever is in the bucket I do check to make sure there is no amerc or WNT cases other than that what ever is in teh bucket goes threw the machine. I am not looking to take out a ground hog at 300+ yards with my 45acp just plinking ammo......

[anm2_man]

The only thing I sort (Other than Calibers) is Boxer vs Berdan. You got to get those berdan cases out of here.

[Bob Wright]

I keep my brass sorted by manufacturer and also by the number of times it has been reloaded. Brass does vary in thickness at the case mouth, and this changes with reloading and trimming. This in turn affects bullet pull, and the goal is to keep everything as consistant as possible. Compare your targets and it will be noticed that random brass will not group as well as culled brass. This is especially noticed at longer ranges. That's why I keep my full power loads to ten loadings or less.

Bob Wright

[RL357Mag]

Rifle brass should be sorted, particularly since some manufacturers brass and military brass is thicker walled and consequently will reduce case volume and increase neck-to-bullet tension, changing the ballsitics. If you are concerned with accuracy, this is not a good thing!

[frank_1947]

In my semi autos I do not ever seperate by head stamp, if your gun is right it should shoot anything you feed it long as you have your COL right and you have right amount of powder

[RL357Mag]

Originally Posted by frank_1947

In my semi autos I do not ever seperate by head stamp, if your gun is right it should shoot anything you feed it long as you have your COL right and you have right amount of powder

I experienced noticeable changes in POI between FC headstamps and Win headstamps in my .308 AR. I assume that's because of the reduced case volume. The same charge weight in the FC brass becomes a compressed load. Neck tension is also noticeably increased. This is why bench rest shooters sort brass by water volume.

[Catman]

Greetings one and all. I have never sorted any brass, rifle or pistol in the 43 yrs I have been reloading. May not work for anyone but me.