Originally Posted by Staestc
I too would like to understand why so many folks recommend a separate crimp step. I am loading straight walled cartridges for pistols and it seems that, once set up, I get proper seating and taper crimp in a single step. Have not tried roll crimping yet on my .357 stuff yet.
You are correct, you have to set them up properly, but once done you should be able to achieve a factory similar crimp from your dies for your reloads. I reload .380 and 9mm, as well as, .38 and .357 Mag.. The taper crimp on the .380 and 9mm rounds is a piece of cake and it takes just a little more effort to get the roll crimp on the .38 and .357 Mag's, right but it's not difficult.
I probably reload about 10 different calibers from straight walled pistols to bottlenecked rifle rounds and all my dies are RCBS. They just work and if you ever have a problem with them RCBS has a no questions asked guarantee that I love. Their Customer Service is outstanding. ETA:
I do have a Lee Factory Crimp Die that I use on my 7mm Rem. Mag. rounds I reload. I had some pulled military surplus 7mm bullets that didn't have a cannelure that wouldn't stay in position with just neck tension, but the Lee FCD did the job nicely of locking them into position.