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Old 08-16-2009, 01:17 AM   #21
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Default After the fact!!

In regard to your stuck case, Sauce-how did you miss the section in your Lyman Handbook/ABC's of Reloading, on case prep.+lube?? You have just demonstrated to ALL the Noobies to hand loading the importance of having/reading either of these Manuals. This is an example of why all of us Seasoned Hand loaders have stressed this point to all that are new to hand loading. At least this is only a Pain in the A@@ mistake, and not one that will hurt you-such as a double/triple charged case.

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Old 08-17-2009, 12:37 AM   #22
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Default lube

I spray lube. I use lymans and put cases in baggy spray a squirt and shake. never had one stuck.and I have made 6.5 jap from 30/06. befor you go further,read some manuals.and then read again.

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Old 08-17-2009, 07:35 PM   #23
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I use RCBS and Dillons lubes.

The quick way to pull a stuck case if it isnt primed or loaded is to drill through the primer pocket and thread it then set a socket over the end that is large enough to allow the case to pass, and put a washered bolt through the socket and thread it into the case and then just simply turn the bolt in and pull the case out. You are out about a minute and the cost of the bolt.

Never push a loaded case into a sizing die, just on principal.

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Old 08-18-2009, 01:45 AM   #24
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Default Stuck Case.

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Originally Posted by W. C. Quantrill View Post
I use RCBS and Dillons lubes.

The quick way to pull a stuck case if it isnt primed or loaded is to drill through the primer pocket and thread it then set a socket over the end that is large enough to allow the case to pass, and put a washered bolt through the socket and thread it into the case and then just simply turn the bolt in and pull the case out. You are out about a minute and the cost of the bolt.

Never push a loaded case into a sizing die, just on principal.
Used Dillon lube for the last 8-10 years-works for me. If one is using a size die, there should be a 95% chance that the case either has a dead primer, or no primer. Can drill through dead primer if you have to. I bought a RCBS stuck case remover, after I stuck my first case. Got to looking at the parts of the kit and assembled my own kit. Proper drill bit-1/4" USS tap-1/4" hardened cap screw-proper bushing(Auto disc brake caliper bushing)-washers-Allen wrench. My "Home made" kit works as well as the RCBS factory kit. GREAT advice W.C. on avoiding EVER placing a loaded round into a size die!! I can't think of the purpose of doing that, but , that would be a "Bone Head" move, that could cause serious injury!! Would not be possible with the decap rod in die==BUT==Who knows??????????
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Old 08-18-2009, 02:04 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Hot Sauce NARC View Post
sweet, and also damit. More equipment needed !

i knew i was going to need another die but i was going to try and skate by with out buying a case tumbler for a while but oh well overtime is good for now. What about a case trimmer? how bad do i need a trimmer?
Depending on what caliber you are loading, you will probably need to trim the cases after 3-5 loadings. Lee makes one of the cheapest, fastest, and easiest case trimmers on the market. It consists of a lock stud which accepts a caliber-specific shell holder. You can chuck this into a cordless drill or drill press. The other half of the equation is a caliber-specific case length guage (pilot) which screws into a cutter. After placing a case into the lock stud/shell holder assembly, you simply insert the pilot/cutter ass'y into the case and twist it a few revolutions until no more brass is removed from the case neck. Using a cordless drill instead of your hand, you can trim a case in about 3 seconds. The lock stud and cutter are used for all calibers - you simply buy a new pilots/shell holder for each caliber. The cutter and lock stud cost $4.22, the case length gage (pilot) and shell holder costs $3.51. SO for each new caliber it costs you $3.51.
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Old 08-18-2009, 01:43 PM   #26
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"... made a loading block from a 2 x 3 by drilling two rows of parallel holes the same size as my largest case rim. Place the cleaned cases in the holes and lightly spray both sides."

If you make a shop made block and only drill the holes about a quarter inch deep it should work well.

Since you already had a problem from a lube failure I will caution you to be carefull if you spray lube cases in a conventonal loading block. A deep loading block will shield the lower (critical) portions of the case from the spray and that can result in another stuck case no matter what brand of lube you use.

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Old 08-18-2009, 01:54 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hole View Post
"... made a loading block from a 2 x 3 by drilling two rows of parallel holes the same size as my largest case rim. Place the cleaned cases in the holes and lightly spray both sides."

If you make a shop made block and only drill the holes about a quarter inch deep it should work well.

Since you already had a problem from a lube failure I will caution you to be carefull if you spray lube cases in a conventonal loading block. A deep loading block will shield the lower (critical) portions of the case from the spray and that can result in another stuck case no matter what brand of lube you use.
+1 Holes should not be drilled deeper than 1/4" or just enough to prevent them from falling out when applying lube to the inside of case necks via q-tip.
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Old 08-18-2009, 09:04 PM   #28
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Default Lube

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+1 Holes should not be drilled deeper than 1/4" or just enough to prevent them from falling out when applying lube to the inside of case necks via q-tip.
I only neck size my rifle cases (I don't really have a choice with my PPC cases as I'm not sure if they even make full length dies) so I don't have a problem with stuck cases. The one time I did have a problem when I was full length resizing came as the result of too much lube near the shoulder that became trapped between the shoulder and the die and resulted in small dents in the shoulder.

But I guess I'm old fashioned as I still use the old "roll on" case lube when resizing pistol cases, but the few times I tried the spray I sat the cases mouth down and sprayed them, and by doing so prevents any lube from entering the case and made sure plenty of lube got applied to the head/web area of the case where cases are most likely to become stuck. It worked fine, but it seemed I was getting as much spray on the surroundings as I was on the cases. But you know what they say about old habits, and I continue to use the roll on lube most of the time.

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Old 08-18-2009, 10:43 PM   #29
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Yes, just recently someone decided his cases didnt have enough neck tension. That was after he loaded them. Then he pulled the decapping rod and tried to run a loaded case in thinking he would squeeze it a little tighter and jammed it of course. So there he was with a real hazard on his hands. He pulled the rim off the case. Well there is a way to salvage a die on that, but he didnt know it.

Case brass is real soft. To use a 1/4" bolt, drill out with 3/16" bit (root bit). Then thread it. If your luck is like my luck your 1/4" tap is missing or it is Friday night or Sunday and the hardware store is closed. I keep several grade 8 bolts on hand for just in case. You can taper the end of the bolt on your grinder then grind a flat up the edge of the threads and make a serviceable tap that will thread a lot of brass cases. The taper lets it start in the hole and catch the bottom threads and the flat cleans out the shavings. I just use a socket for a puller. It took longer to type this than to pull a case this way.

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Old 08-19-2009, 01:42 AM   #30
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Stuck cases (even with primers seated, although I don't know why anyone would size a primed case) can be removed from a die by removing the decapping pin/retainer and inserting a wooden dowel into the case - then tap it out with a hammer. The one and only time I had a stuck case, this is how I removed it.
The water-based lubricant applied with a pad is a pain in the a$$ to use, and is responsible for many ruined cases due to over application, this is why I switched to the spray lube. Cases should be sprayed while in the upright position, NOT UPSIDE DOWN! You want lube to enter the neck area, this is why I use a saturated q-tip inside the neck. It is easily removed by tumbling after sizing.

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