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Old 08-10-2009, 08:14 PM   #1
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Default Col

when i read reloading tables for .223 they give a col for that particular load, and i know i should never mix and match infor from different loads or anything like that. What i want to know is can i take a specified load and just play with the seating depth without catastrophic problems ?

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Old 08-10-2009, 09:13 PM   #2
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In my single shot rifle I seat the bullets so they are around .010 of the lands. You can't get away with this in a magazine fed rifle because the bullets will not fit into the mag. Seating lower than the C.O.L should not pose any pressure issues because I load a compressed load in my .223, although, I could be wrong.

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Old 08-10-2009, 10:13 PM   #3
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There would be no problem with adjusting the OAL. The listings in the guides are a reference length. You can adjust it to your particular rifle and/or magazines with no affect on the performance of the round..

Jim...................

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Old 08-10-2009, 10:46 PM   #4
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I do this also in my bolt rifles. Redding makes a competition seater that works well for me. The Redding part # is 55111 for the .223 cal. They also make the competition die sets and shell holders. The competition shell holders come in +.002", .004", .006", .008", and .010". The stock shell holder would be 0.00 of course. With these comp. shell holders you can change the clearance on the shoulder as well.

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Old 08-11-2009, 12:10 AM   #5
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To get the most accuracy out of my bolt action rifles I used to spray a bullet with spotting compound and chamber it to see where the rifling contacted the bullet. This was my seating depth. Many benchrest shooters claim that the jump to the rifling can upset accuracy. I don't know if this is true, but I do know that personally my accuracy improved when I seated my bullets out several thousanths. Of course the guns I have are old milsurp and probably have some throat erosion...

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Old 08-11-2009, 01:09 PM   #6
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"...they give a col for that particular load, and i know i should never mix and match infor from different loads or anything like that..."

"They" picked an OAL that worked for their test rifle and developed the data you see. None of it is a "law" to be slavishly followed or you die. If that were so they would only give ONE charge level instead of a "min" to "max" range, or need to tell you to start low and only move up IF no pressure signs occur. Reloading simply IS NOT all that predictable.

You, and many others, are over looking the biggest single element in any load: the weapon it's fired in. No other component or OAL change is going to have as much impact on the book's data as that one, mandatory, change! Thus, you can change any bullet, case, primer or OAL you need to and use ANY book data as a generic thing for the bullet weight while working up your load as you go.

In other words, YES, change the OAL as you wish once you learn enough to know what you're doing.

Finally, seating into the lands is for BR rifles, and not all of them. Factory rifles rarely shoot best when loaded at or into the lands.

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Old 08-11-2009, 03:44 PM   #7
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Default Cartridge Length

If you don't plan to use the magazine, you can pretty much seat the bullet to any depth you want as the best accuracy will usually be obtained by seating the bullet to a depth where it just touches the lands or is a few thousandths of a inch away from the lands. However this will usually produce a cartridge that is too long for use in the magazine

Also loading to where the bullet touches the lands usually produces slightly higher pressures and in some cases, only a small additional amount of powder can produce a "spike" in pressures, so work up to higher velocity loads slowly. But if you occasionally shoot at your club's benchrest competitions, try a few of these long rounds, which will in most cases, give you the tightest groups with most rifles.

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Old 08-11-2009, 04:09 PM   #8
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thanks guys all good info here. I got my dies last night from midway (rcbs competition .223) both dies were clearly labled as 223 but when i tried to size my first round it stuck about 3/8 of an inch from the bottom of the die and i couldnt free it for anything. yes i used lube wd-40, (is that a reatrd move) but it stuck and i destroyed the resizer die getting it out I dont know if it was the wrong size, or was it somthing with my brass, or is wd-40 like case glue or somthing? I have no Idea, but i am rather sure midway wont take the sizer die back now

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Old 08-11-2009, 04:27 PM   #9
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WD-40 is not a lube, it is a water displacing liquid that is advertised as a lubricant. Really bad move, but not hopeless. You will need to get a stuck case remover, I use the one available from RCBS. Get the case yanked out and use a proper case lube. Many are available from RCBS, Hornaday, MidwayUSA, etc. I like Rig lube +P. It is actually a gun grease but has very good high pressure properties and works very well for .223 sizing. Midway Minute Lube works pretty good, too.

Live and learn. We have all made some dumb-ass mistakes when learning all there is to learn. If I had a dime for every .223 case I stuck in a sizing die, I could but a new sizing die.

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Old 08-11-2009, 05:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Sauce NARC View Post
thanks guys all good info here. I got my dies last night from midway (rcbs competition .223) both dies were clearly labled as 223 but when i tried to size my first round it stuck about 3/8 of an inch from the bottom of the die and i couldnt free it for anything. yes i used lube wd-40, (is that a reatrd move) but it stuck and i destroyed the resizer die getting it out I dont know if it was the wrong size, or was it somthing with my brass, or is wd-40 like case glue or somthing? I have no Idea, but i am rather sure midway wont take the sizer die back now
Are you saying you now have the case removed and in doing so destroyed the resizing die? If the case is still in the die, Robocop10mm's suggestion will work and the tool can be used to remove other cases should this happen again.

I'm old fashioned and prefer the case lube that comes packaged in a toothpaste type tube and you apply it to a case lube pad (it's kind of like a dense sponge) and in order to full length resize the case you simple roll the case across the pad until it is full covered with lube. However too much lube can cause air bubbles to form between the die and case with the only result being a destroyed case. You'll get the hang of how much to use with time. Also it's a good idea to clean the inside of the sizing die as sometimes some dirt and grit can find it's way into the unused die and cause a case to be difficult to resize. There is also an aerosol spray lube that works well, but I tend to spray the darn stuff everywhere, thus I still use the old fashioned case lube. Midway has always been a good company to deal with, but don't be surprised if the die was damaged and you told them what was used as a lube, that you have to buy a new sizer. Hopefully they will let you replace only the sizer and not have to buy the full set.

WD 40. That may become your temporary nickname for a while. But don't let it turn you against reloading. We all made mistakes during the first few weeks, so you have plenty of company.

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