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Old 10-29-2013, 08:31 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by fa35jsf View Post
Maybe I should have clarified what I meant be "accurate". What I am looking to do is play around with powder charge to find the best grouping. I have shot many different brands and types through my rifle and some group well, others not so well. My rifle is not a bench rest gun but rather my deer rifle, however I still want the best grouping I can get.

Has anyone had any experience with Hornady brass?

Also, thank you for any links because reloading components are hard to find in stock. Thanks for the links already posted.
i use Hornady and Norma brass for my most accurate loads. is it better than my Winchester or Remington brass? possibly. IMO, i feel the costlier brass is made more consistent and more uniform.

one thing that i think too, is that the brass, whether it's new or once fired, that after the first time it's shot in your rifle, it takes the individual shape of your chamber.

another thing i do is to try and stay away from the maximum powder charges as much as possible, as i feel they stretch the cases, and not always is faster more accurate. i really don't try for the fast loads, but am looking for the most accurate load. some of my cases, have gone about 10 reloads with only minor trimming.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:16 PM   #12
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i use Hornady and Norma brass for my most accurate loads. is it better than my Winchester or Remington brass? possibly. IMO, i feel the costlier brass is made more consistent and more uniform.

one thing that i think too, is that the brass, whether it's new or once fired, that after the first time it's shot in your rifle, it takes the individual shape of your chamber.

another thing i do is to try and stay away from the maximum powder charges as much as possible, as i feel they stretch the cases, and not always is faster more accurate. i really don't try for the fast loads, but am looking for the most accurate load. some of my cases, have gone about 10 reloads with only minor trimming.

Thanks. That is kind of what I want to do, fire form to my rifle after my first load. I still need to get a neck only sizing die though. Maybe christmas.

I have been trying to do some research on the different brands and how concentric the neck is and all. It seems as though Winchester and Remington are towards the bottom with their quality control, AT LEAST AS FAR AS THE REVIEWS STATE.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:30 PM   #13
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Just about any brass can be made to shoot VERY well. Sorting by case weight, deburring the flash holes, uniforming the primer pockets, turning the case necks, etc. Aneal the case necks every 3rd or 4th loading to make the brass last longer. You will undoubtedly be able to extract amazing accuracy by just prepping and sorting the brass.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:31 AM   #14
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I have used Winchester brass for years, in several rifle and handgun calibers, and find it to be very good. But it requires a lot of prep work. I resize, chamfer the mouths, debur the primer pockets, and trim to the same length. Most of the Starline brass I've bought needs less prep work. Recently bought some Nosler .308 brass, and while it is more pricey, ( $50 for 50 pieces of brass, as opposed to around $32 per $50 for Winchester), it is fully prepped. trimmed to length,cases weighed, flash holes de burred , etc. I have stayed away Remington brass, thicker walled, but more prone to neck splits than other brands.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:58 AM   #15
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The Remington brass tends to be harder than most. A good anealing will fix most of the neck splitting problems. I aneal .243 and resize to .308 and never split a case. I reform .270 into 8mm Mauser and never split a neck.
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:21 AM   #16
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I have always used whatever brass I happen to have laying around. I DO separate it by brand into groups but I find that good brass prep work makes more of a difference than the headstamp.

I load for my 30-06, 7x57 mauser, 8x57 mauser, 300 win mag, 308 win, 303 brit, 7.62x39 Russian and all my pistols as well as the shotgun stuff. Mostly for my older military rifles. These are "hunting" grade guns not bench rifles. Many are either actual sniper weapons or reproductions of them. I do expect them to group well, but most are older than I am. I am realistic about their grouping capabilities.

With Once fired brass aneal the necks, trim for length, full length size and primer pocket uniform. Then tumble clean. separate by headstamp if you want after this but I've always found the differences very small at this point. Only exception is if you have different case capacities. Weighing cases to group them has always worked better than headstamp separation.

After the first firing in there new bolt action home I only neck size. For a semi I always full length the ammo. Try it with some of the brass you have and see if it doesn't make a believer out of you. As a note this is "hunting rounds for smallest group" not benchrest. On that most of us let our OCD run wild when it comes to prep.
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:26 AM   #17
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First read Robo's advice on using brass. Second, reread Robo's advise on using brass cases.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:18 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by John_Deer View Post
That is why I never got into reloading. Components are always sold out. Some bullets cost as much as factory ammo. If you want to reload HP pistol ammo you can save a little money.
You're shopping at the wrong places.

I had plenty until all the idiots started screaming TEOTWAWKI.

Bullets cost as much as factory ammo? HUH? I can get 22 cal bullets for as little as .16 cents a bullets. Please show me where you can get 223 or 556 ammo for 16 cents a round.


Normal or nosler would be top 2 for 270. If you want to take 30-06 brass and neck it down to 270 you can use Laupa.

Last edited by gunnut07; 11-06-2013 at 05:21 AM.
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