and another tiresome set of reloading questions
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Old 05-01-2012, 02:41 AM   #1
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Default and another tiresome set of reloading questions

OK, after reloading more than a thousand .357, right at about 1000 .44 mags, and about 500 45acp i have decided i am ready to tackle my first round of large rifle reloads.

So far i have tumbled/polished 100 30-06 springfield brass, lubricated the inside of the necks with cotton swab and sprayed the outside and shook in a plastic bag for a couple minutes until well coated. Then ran thru the full length sizing die. (i THINK its the full length die....at least it looks like the one in the picture in the included instructions from Lee) Now i am in the process of trimming and cleaning primer pockets.

I now see why you guys say you use your single stage press for rifle cartridges. A different process for sure than pistol loads.

ANYWHO, my questions. Am I on the right track? What do i do with the brass shavings that fall inside the case? Not worry?

Next i guess i will prime, or do I then run thru the "Collet sizer" die then prime? Then charge, then seat the 180 gr SPBTs.

Still on the right track??

I worry and have waited this long because the rounds will be shot out of my dead dads Remington Model Four. (Irreplaceable gun!) My next round of reloads will be .35 Rem....to be shot out of my Grandfathers extremely low digit serial number (in pristine shape i might add) Remington Model 141. (Another Irreplaceable gun)

I i am being uber anal about these loads for the above reasons. If i blew up my 686, 1911, or .44 carbine.... The 1911 was the first pistol i bought for myself after moving out, the 686 was my 30th B-day gift from the wife, the Carbine is old and cool. It would surely bother to damage any of these guns, but they ARE replaceable. Yanno? But I havent, (to this point) so its all good...but these rifles are a completely different game!

Please forgive my tiresome ignorance but they say and i fully believe the only stupid questions are those unasked!

Any and all advice is welcome and appreciated. Reading the directions in the manual, the leaflet that came with the dies is good....but why not use all the resources available to me? Like YOU GUYS!!

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Old 05-01-2012, 02:48 AM   #2
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Another question....will i want to wipe excess lube from the interior of the cases/case necks before charging?? or will that not matter much?

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Old 05-01-2012, 03:05 AM   #3
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Lee clains that their case lube will not effect powder or primers. Not sure about other brands. I use cabelas spray case lube. No problems of any kind so far.

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Old 05-01-2012, 03:08 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick1967 View Post
Lee clains that their case lube will not effect powder or primers. Not sure about other brands. I use cabelas spray case lube. No problems of any kind so far.
Not sure the brand i'm using (its in the basement in the loading room...i'm trimming and cleaning primer pockets at the desk) but its ingredients are lanolin and alcohol...the alcohol evaporates in short order, not sure if lanolin has adverse affects on powder.
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Old 05-01-2012, 03:18 AM   #5
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This may sound funny but I've never lubed the inside of a case. Just never had to do it. I load .223. .308, 30-30, 30-06

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Old 05-01-2012, 03:21 AM   #6
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FMJ, it sounds like you're on the right track and doing just fine. i clean my primer pockets after trimming if needed, that way the shavings fall out of the case. doubt there would be any problems if they didn't, but oh well.

biggest area of concern is the powder charge. an overcharge could potentially damage a gun. an undercharge could cause a squib, which if it sticks in the barrel could be damaging to the gun and you. just check and double check your powder charges.

i use the Hornady case lube and really like it. works great for my style of reloading.

i usually wipe off the excess before charging with powder, as the next step is seating the bullet and no lube is usually needed to seat the bullet.

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Old 05-01-2012, 03:26 AM   #7
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This may sound funny but I've never lubed the inside of a case. Just never had to do it. I load .223. .308, 30-30, 30-06
i don't either. i think this is more needed when resizing from one caliber to another. example renecking a 30-06 to a 25-06. or creating a wildcat.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:26 AM   #8
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Lubing the inside is needed if your not using a carbide expander ball and then the difference is mainly more effort needed to raise the press arm. The issue that can happen with not lubing is you can break the expander off in the case neck or rip the rim off leaving the case stuck in the die.

I dont lube the inside and have never had either of these issues.

Just turn the case upside down give it a tap and the shavings come out.

Start right in the middle or slightly less than middle range charges using a light bullet for irreplaceable firearms. Might not be the best accuracy but it wont tear them up.

I do a lot of my case prep on my progressive since they have to be run through in steps before final loading. Bottle necks are time consuming doing the prep work.

Since bottlenecks are getting worked more and the pressure is higher you will find another fun case prep thing called annealing. Bottlenecks after a few firings become work hardened and need to be annealed to soften the necks again. This gives more uses before they split or become unusuable

Just make sure your trimming after sizing not before.

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Old 05-01-2012, 11:11 AM   #9
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Quote:
Next i guess i will prime, or do I then run thru the "Collet sizer" die then prime? Then charge, then seat the 180 gr SPBTs.
You do not need to run your Full Length sized brass through the Collet die. The Collet die is for neck sizing only which is an Either-Or. You can Full Length size or you can Neck size, no need to do both.

I think your next step should be to check those sized cases and see if they chamber with ease. It's not uncommon for a new handloader to take his/her first batch of handloads to the range only to find out that they will not chamber due to improper FL sizing. Check your brass now before you load any primers/powder for proper fit. Now is the time to make any adjustments in the sizing die if needed.

Id this New brass or fired brass?
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:15 AM   #10
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I have always bought carbide dies because of the no need to lube thing. But i read somewhere lubing was needed on rifle cartridges. Will skip the lubing step on the next 50 and see how it goes.

I ran thru full length sizing die, then trimmed. After trimming/chamfering i turned upside down and gave a couple taps, then cleaned primer pockets. But some small shavings are still inside.

Guess i will run thru the Collet sizing die later, prime, charge and seat the bullets.

So far, with my pistol rounds, i have had best luck and accuracy from using a couple more grains than suggested starting charge, but more than a couple shy of max charge.

Far as powder charges go, i weigh every charge....if its within a 1/10th of a grain, above or below, it gets thrown. Anything else gets trickled.

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