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Old 03-11-2011, 10:45 AM   #21
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Your brass is annealed at the factory after being made. You don't see it on remington, winchester and other brass Laupa doesn't polish after annealing that is why the necks of their brass are slightly darker. For me it takes about 3 or 4 times before I annealing my 223 brass. Some cases that take a lot of abuse of high pressure or very hot loads will need it after just about every firing.

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Old 03-11-2011, 11:17 AM   #22
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I'm learning some interesting things from this thread....

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Old 03-11-2011, 04:17 PM   #23
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great thread my hat is off to tango

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Old 03-11-2011, 05:55 PM   #24
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Thanks guys.

I am trying to figure out how to build a rig to hold the drill or driver.

I have a Black & Decker Rotadriver Black & Decker Tools | Rotadriver I may use for the project.

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Old 03-11-2011, 06:45 PM   #25
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Pause the video about 10 seconds in and blow it up to full screen. That guy's jig looks a bit over engineered to me, but there's good ideas there too. A few small pieces of plywood, 4" hinge, a large hose clamp and a handful of screws to put it all together. Then all you need is an old beaker stand from the science room and you're good to go.

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Old 03-13-2011, 11:24 PM   #26
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The link on page one contains info on the correct way to anneal cases. You do not want them to get red hot.
I'm not all that impressed with the tool. I like the idea of putting the bases in water, heating until the right temp is reached, and as you know, how much light is in the room will affect what you see as to color on the cases.
You do not want the body of the case anealed, only the neck.
It's your brass and rifle, but if you are going to do it, do a little research and do it right. There are kits that do one at a time which protects the base from the heat, I have never tried one, but it would be better than a tool that just turns the case while you play heat on the neck. Getting the neck too hot changes the grain structure of the metal. Why not just do it the right way???

Just my 2 cents, John K

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