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Old 03-10-2011, 07:09 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Biohazard2 View Post
You should do alittle research on annealing and you will find that you do NOT heat until cherry red and you do NOT drop into water.
Cherry red is too hot and they should cool normally.
Well just like anything in this world,everyone has their own opinion.

I've been doing it this way for around 25yrs,and it works for me.
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:23 PM   #12
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thanks Eirc I forgot to put that video in my post.
No problem, I actually got the link from your post in the second to last paragraph, I think dunerunner just missed it. I know some people don't realize underlined words can be a link.

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brass is virtually unaffected when it is rapidly cooled. Annealing brass and suddenly quenching it in water will have no measurable effect on the brass. (this was in the 4th paragraph)
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At this point, I grab the case near the base with my gloved left hand, lift it from the spinning case-holder and drop it in a bucket full of full-strength CLR. (this was in the second to last paragraph)
Biohazard2, the quotes above are from the article you yourself linked. I take it you were too busy to read it before suggesting those of us not "in the know" take a look, because it sure reads like they rapid cooled/quenched their brass to me. ...and one did indeed quench in water.
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:35 PM   #13
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Yes, I have read the article and several others.
The vid in ct's post have you noticed that the guy dumps the cases from the drill into a box with no water?
You get yours cherry red and I won't.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:36 PM   #14
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Look dude (Meaning BIO) you say not to quench brass. quenching brass does nothing wrong it just keeps the web from getting to hot seeing as brass is a very good conductor of heat.

You can get it white hot if you want just so long as you don't over heat the web of the case.

The heat and tip method is what a lot of people I know do. Some of these guys are reloading for $5k custom rifles too.

Do you have to quench your brass NO. I would always do it on small brass like the 223 rounds. 30-06 300wm cases may not because the amount of time int he heat is not enough to cause damage.

Also the heat and tip method uses water to keep the webbing from being annealed and blowing your face off.

Why are you arguing that we are wrong when everything I see says you can quench or not quench?
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Old 03-11-2011, 12:22 AM   #15
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is this good for just bottle neck brass?? what about straight wall cases like 458 winmag and pistol brass?? ive always just tossed my 308 brass when they become unworkable
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Old 03-11-2011, 12:29 AM   #16
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Yes, I have read the article and several others.
The vid in ct's post have you noticed that the guy dumps the cases from the drill into a box with no water?
You get yours cherry red and I won't.
Then you should have reread it before posting the link. My point was, if you've read this and other articles, it would have made more sense to post the link to one that actually agreed with your statements "..you do NOT drop into water.." and "..they should cool normally..", because the one linked above disagrees with your advice/warning on cooling. This fact made it appear as if you failed to read, failed to comprehend or simply forgot key points in the article you seem so proud to have read.

I too read this same article not long after I started reloading. Which is why I thought it was odd you used that link to backup your warning on cooling brass.
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Old 03-11-2011, 01:28 AM   #17
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is this good for just bottle neck brass?? what about straight wall cases like 458 winmag and pistol brass?? ive always just tossed my 308 brass when they become unworkable
I have never heard of anyone annealing pistol brass.

For your 458 winmag brass the tools would work as would annealing.

I started annealing 223 brass because I kept getting sooty necks and spastic velocities after annealing no more of either.
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Old 03-11-2011, 02:11 AM   #18
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is this good for just bottle neck brass?? what about straight wall cases like 458 winmag and pistol brass?? ive always just tossed my 308 brass when they become unworkable
I've read others have annealed 357-Mag pistol brass, so I figure the same rules would apply to straight wall rifle brass. Just some of our pistol rounds are so short, it may be hard to heat the mouth and neck without heating the rest of the case.

...and those 308's you've been tossing could be cut/trimmed down to 45-Auto length and used to load 45ACP or 45-Super. That's where early 45-Super cases started.
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Old 03-11-2011, 02:18 AM   #19
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I've read others have annealed 357-Mag pistol brass, so I figure the same rules would apply to straight wall rifle brass. Just some of our pistol rounds are so short, it may be hard to heat the mouth and neck without heating the rest of the case.

...and those 308's you've been tossing could be cut/trimmed down to 45-Auto length and used to load 45ACP or 45-Super. That's where early 45-Super cases started.
DAMN!!!!!

least i got a source for good 460 rowland brass now :/
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Old 03-11-2011, 02:21 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by cpttango30 View Post
I have never heard of anyone annealing pistol brass.

For your 458 winmag brass the tools would work as would annealing.

I started annealing 223 brass because I kept getting sooty necks and spastic velocities after annealing no more of either.
458 winmag is hard to get at times thanks. pistol cases i figured that was the case so to speak but i had to ask.

so would it be good to wait till it becomes difficult to work or do it right ff the bat??
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