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Old 02-21-2014, 05:37 PM   #51
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Hmm, I wonder what that discoloration on the neck and shoulder is.

I thought that was from the polishing with liberal tears. HUH go figure.
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:56 PM   #52
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Thank you for verification: I have stock piled the 5.56 and 7.62. But with the cost of 260 brass, I'll need to figure out the annealing process so I can invest in powder.
You should be able to neck down 7.62 brass to .260 with no problems.

I'd outside turn the case necks after necking it down, but it should work just as well as regular .260.

I've necked down hundreds of 7.62 to ,243. .260 should be even easier. It's just a factory version of the 6.5-08.
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Old 02-27-2014, 11:38 PM   #53
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You should be able to neck down 7.62 brass to .260 with no problems.

I'd outside turn the case necks after necking it down, but it should work just as well as regular .260.

I've necked down hundreds of 7.62 to ,243. .260 should be even easier. It's just a factory version of the 6.5-08.
So do you FL size in 308( once fired) first?
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Old 02-28-2014, 12:16 AM   #54
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Default Annealing brass

Heating the brass neck softens the brass and realigns the crystals in the metal it is a common practise for working steal usually followed by a hardening process which is not needed when working brass which-is left soft used brass does harden with each firing and will in time fail in the chamber . A Proper size thread tap is the easiest way to remove a broken case stuck in the chamber That i have found


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