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Annealing brass


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Old 02-20-2014, 05:02 AM   #21
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I don't know where you are getting your brass. The brass has not been finished annealed for many years. It became a cost cutting issue long ago. It is your time but turning brass in a drill would actually accomplish nothing. Annealing brass every other loading would be deter-mental to the alloys. You are going to shorten the life of the brass. Brass life is shortened more by over working and over heating than shooting. I suspect from some of these post that many are low volume re-loaders.
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:12 AM   #22
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Annealing allows the neck and shoulder to seal the chamber and reduce back flow around the case. A work hardened or over heated brass will crack or provide a weak seal. Proper alignment to bore is corrected by neck turning. New brass should be annealed full length sized trimmed to correct length deburred and flash holes and pocket depths gauged. All brass separated by weight. Rotate on a case gauge.
Or my favorite way. Just load them quickly with out all that work and go shoot some thing.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:35 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by nitestalker View Post
I don't know where you are getting your brass. The brass has not been finished annealed for many years. It became a cost cutting issue long ago. It is your time but turning brass in a drill would actually accomplish nothing. Annealing brass every other loading would be deter-mental to the alloys. You are going to shorten the life of the brass. Brass life is shortened more by over working and over heating than shooting. I suspect from some of these post that many are low volume re-loaders.
Who told you they do not finish anneal brass anymore? Annealing every other loading has ABSOLUTELY ZERO detrimental effects. You need to stop spewing the urban myths you picked up at the octogenerain shooting club.
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Last edited by winds-of-change; 02-20-2014 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:13 AM   #24
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This looks like a pretty nice piece of equipment – I cannot tell in the video, but is it also spinning the case? Otherwise I would think it would heat one side more than the other.
That is the reason for 2 torches. There is one out that has a smaller plate underneath that rotates the cases. I have never had a problem with mine heating one side more than the other.

I forget what message board it is on but a guy has the layout for the saw tooth looking plate and he will make them and ship them for $45 or $50.

Also if you wanted a cheaper route there is this nifty little set here. http://www.customreloadingtools.com/crt_006.htm

When I started out playing with it I got this set and it works. It is a little harder than the plate but with a little red neck engineerin you have make a decent annealer. A old cordless drill works great.

He also makes the best loading blocks albeit they are spendy but, they are the BEST I have found. http://www.customreloadingtools.com/crt_007.htm
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:50 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by nitestalker View Post
I don't know where you are getting your brass. The brass has not been finished annealed for many years. It became a cost cutting issue long ago. It is your time but turning brass in a drill would actually accomplish nothing. Annealing brass every other loading would be deter-mental to the alloys. You are going to shorten the life of the brass. Brass life is shortened more by over working and over heating than shooting. I suspect from some of these post that many are low volume re-loaders.
http://www.starlinebrass.com/about-us/quality-process.cfm

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Our quality process begins with premium brass comprised of 70 percent copper and 30 percent zinc. Unlike some competitors, Starline's brass is vertically drawn, which holds wall thickness variation to a minimum. We also anneal our cases between each draw to ensure consistent metallurgy in all lots.
http://www.norma.cc/en/Products/Components/Cases/

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The case neck is annealed to become softer. This prevents gas leaks and enables the case to hold the bullet firmly for at least 10 years without cracking as a result of aging material.
http://www.lapua.com/en/products/reloading/cases

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Strict tolerances in concentrity and wall thickness are used in manufacturing. The neck and shoulder are annealed to withstand repeated reloading.
Others also anneal their brass. I know for a fact that Winchester does because I have some of their brass that was left unpolished (5.56), and you can clearly see the annealing. Remington also anneals their brass.

Once again, you don't have a clue what your talking about.
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:55 AM   #26
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[QUOTE=texaswoodworker;1510990]http://www.starlinebrass.com/about-us/quality-process.cfm



http://www.norma.cc/en/Products/Components/Cases/

"The case neck is annealed to become softer."

it appears annealing makes the brass softer, not harder...
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:10 PM   #27
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it appears annealing makes the brass softer, not harder...
That is correct. When brass casings are fired, they expand. When you resize them, you cause them to contract. This back and forth working of the brass can cause it to become hard and brittle. Annealing makes it softer and prevents it from splitting.

http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

Last edited by texaswoodworker; 02-20-2014 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:17 PM   #28
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well - very good, I have learned a lot about this annealing
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:02 PM   #29
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You and me both. This site is amazing, you ask a simple question and recieve complex detailed answers. some are on the do column and some under the don't column. Take everything with a grain of salt, sift the information and come to a understanable, doable result.
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:25 PM   #30
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Accusing me of using drugs and being elderly is simply not necessary. This was a personal attack not called for. Is it no longer acceptable to have a divergent idea on this forum?

We have done brass hardness on the Vickers testing unit. Using the Vickers Brass hardness test chart. I offered an opinion on perfecting your brass.

Last edited by nitestalker; 02-20-2014 at 04:59 PM.
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