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Old 10-03-2009, 12:04 AM   #11
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If you dont mind Id like your thoughts on primer selection.

I recently bought a 35 whelen for black bear hunting and have worked up a sub-moa load for it. Its 54gr of RL-15, rem case,
250gr Hornandy PSP, Fed 210primer. Shot out of Rem 7600

My question would be should I move up to a magnum primer(215) since the temp. in PA during hunting season can be anywhere from 0-70deg? I know the charge is borderline low for needing a mag primer and powder isn't real slow, but the temperature leaves me wondering.
Any pros to moving up to Fed215?

Also load dads Rem700 '06 with 56gr imr 4350 165gr sierra GKing for hunting. Same primer question. Thanks for your thoughts.----Ken

I currently load 223, 22-250, 243, 30-06, 7mmStw

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Old 10-03-2009, 02:49 AM   #12
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Default Primer Selection thoughts:

Since I grew up in the Poconos I can relate to the low temperature and changes in Pennsylvania. FYI, my son is living and hunting in Colorado so we do the temp problem for his 30-378 and 7mm maggie.

Since your first criteria or problem is low temp, I use and suggest magnums below 40F and for powders with slow burning rates such as or near 4831, 4350 etc or for seriously , pardon the pun, overbore cases with water capacities over 60 grains. I am a CCI man because they give, by actual tests, a very low SD in MV and a very low and consistant flame propigation that is only exceded by the Wolf brand and the Match series of primers. This means that for the 30-06 with a 4831 powder load for hunting go with CCI 250's. I helped someone also in Colorado with his -06 problem and we worked out a load with IMI cases and Nosler bullets ahead of CCI 250's.

Now lets go the other way: it is 95F at 4 pm in Georgia and you are loading to 62,000 cup for your max load and you have Magnum primers. Not only no but Hell no! You will have an overpressure load that you had best be not trying in your '03 Springfield.

If you get into real serious loading, May I suggest "Quck Load" for your computer as it has a wide data base of powders that will tell you, for example, that your 4831 full case load in your -06 is only going to burn 88% of your powder before your 180gr bullet clears the muzzle of your 22" barrel. A waste of powder and more recoil than necessary. As a CYA, I will not suggest any specific loads unless you allow me three shots at your attorney at 800 yards-- And for one more serious suggestion, remember that the bore-groove diamaters, as they relate to the twist and actual bullet diameters ( to the ten thousandth ), will determine what bullet your barrel likes to shoot- that is only verified by target results, the results from your chrony and a ladder test for accuracy.

Reduced loads with ball powder are not condusive to reaching my age and Yes, many bench comps are won with serious shooters/ hand loaders using such as -15 and -22, but because my military basis is that the M1A, for example, is specifically designed for a specific powder burning rate equal to H-4895 ( the other 95 powder is great also but not Varget in that gas gun!) , I stay with stick powders even going the VV route for max-max with a 300wsm and 210 Bergers. No I won't give the load but the pressure is at the 65,000psi level; not for casual powder charging- unless you like to change to glass eyes and polymer fingers---

It is now 2235 and my arthritis says it time to quit so that is it for today.

Laus Deo
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Old 10-03-2009, 03:09 PM   #13
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Welcome overbore, I too have been loading for over 40 years and am a semi-retired gunsmith. Feel free to share with others in need as we all like to do..

Jim................

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Old 10-03-2009, 07:11 PM   #14
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Default Thanks

and from your handle I see your expertise is pistols. Mine is rifles but I am not into ball powder, rimfire, muzzle loaders ( son just bagged a large elk with a Savage M L ) or cast bullets.

laus deo
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Old 10-04-2009, 01:24 PM   #15
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Say, overbore- got a load question- .357 mag revolver. Using 2400 powder, can you suggest a starting/max load for Speer 200 gr TMJ's- the #4231 bullet? My manuals all stop short of 200 gr bullets.

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Old 10-04-2009, 04:37 PM   #16
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My brother-in-law and I reloaded .38 brass with 14.5 grains of Unique and fired the round in his brand new SW .357. Needless to say, we're still here, but the revolver isn't.

Overbore, can you believe we got that much powder in a .38 casing?

We found a 10's wheel hidded under the powder scale set to #1 (10 grains), and we had measured several times 4.5 grains for the powder charge, thus 14.5 grains. Our first reloading experience. He sold all his equipment and never attempted to reload again.

That heavy frame Smith and Wesson saved our lives!!

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Old 10-04-2009, 04:37 PM   #17
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Default My Suggestion

is to go to Speer directly per my above posts as I am not into 2400, Because of supply concerns, I am standardized on Unique which has the widest applications.
What is your thinking on 200gr's? If for a defensive load it might be too heavy for max velocity. My preference in .357 is Gold Dot---- Here again ball powders for me are out as the crimp requirement with ball is paramount.

Cordially,

overbore

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Old 10-04-2009, 05:02 PM   #18
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I've got a pic of that .357 somewhere. Barrel is canted to one side about 10 degrees, the cylinder strap is gone along with half the cylinder!!

Damned glad we only had one round in the gun. 14.5 grains of Unique is a double load for a 30/06!!

You would have thought we would have been concerned that the powder was mounded above the casing when we compressed the bullet into it!! Dumb!!

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Old 10-04-2009, 06:30 PM   #19
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Default Well OK!

Since the Good Lord looks out for us ( Psalm 91) when we screw up, count your two eyes and 10 fingers as blessings!

Be thankful you were not shooting a M-29 (.44 maggie) as that powder charge could have been very bad.

Everyone has 20-20 hindsight and we all learn from our mistakes- of we survive- so the lesson here is that the use of check weights ( really cheap ) to calibrate our scales is a good idea. After charging with powder I still give each block of 25-50 pistol rounds the old eyeball check to to if anything does not look right.

I do check power charges for every 25 rifle rounds even for my belt fed Browning loaded on my Dillon especially when restarting a 500 round batch as the powder has been known to stick or clump.

Thanks for sharing your school of hard knock experience and my condolonces on the Smith.

Laus Deo
overbore

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Old 10-04-2009, 07:53 PM   #20
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I've never reloaded and don't know much about it. The free information is much appreciated!!
We all have our fields of expertise.


edited: When I was pretty young I was shooting guns with my dad at a local dump site. He blew the cylinder and bent the barrel on his .44magnum blackhawk with reloads. That scared me enough to never try it.

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