45-70
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:35 PM   #1
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i want to get a 45-70 single shot rifle, the h&r buffalo classic to be specific. i already reload for other calibers but for the 45-70 i want to cast my own bullets. im wondering if someone could explain the process of casting your own. i dont quite understand if you have to gas check them? ive read that you gas check them if you want accuracy but please correct me if im wrong. and if you gents could recommend good equipment for gas checks. thanks alot
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:44 PM   #2
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i want to make the cast lead bullets just for plinking at the range if that matters. id only shoot out to 100-150 yards.
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:31 PM   #3
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No you do not need gas checks on the 45/70 bullets. Gas checks are used for "hot" loads.
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:34 AM   #4
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thanks for replying. so i can get a bullet mold and after i make some bullets just load them up like i would any other kind in the press?
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:34 AM   #5
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do i have to lube them when i load them into the brass?
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:46 AM   #6
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Yes you must lube cast bullets. You may tumble lube in Alox or run them thru a little Lee sizer. In most 45-70 caliber rifles .457 you will use a cast .458 bullet. There are more expensive lube and sizers by Lyman, RCBS, Star running in to the hundreds of dollars.
The LEE sizer and a bottle of Alox will be under $30 bucks. The LEE mold blocks will work just fine at a bargain price. Gas Checks are used at 1,500 fps pressures in barrels over 18 inches. Good Luck.
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:07 AM   #7
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thanks! ill go ahead and try to find some of that stuff now!
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:05 PM   #8
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Find the Lyman Cast Bulllet Handbook (if it is still available). Detailed info on casting. Think of all the knowledge you have about reloading, you will need to acquire at least that much moe about casting to get started.

Things to learn;

Temperature ( of the alloy and the molds)
Alloys and how to make them
Fluxing
Skimming
Lead as a hazardous material
Mold preparation
Proper sizing
Reading the bullet (frosted,wrinkled, shiny, dull, etc)
Heat treating
Gas checks, yes or no
Lube - types, anounts, proper choices for expected velocities/powders
Seating
Cleaning the gun after.

And this is without getting into things like paper patching, bullet indexing, hollow pointing, differential casting, etc.

I could go on for days, but I took the time to buy the books and read them before I got started nearly 30 years ago. There are no shortcuts (sorry Gen-Xers).
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:10 PM   #9
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the speed your bullet is traveling kinda determines the hardness of the bullet you need. the hard part is setting up a safe area to flux the lead melt getting the right alloy mix and finding a source of decent lead. none of it is that daunting. im just getting started in rolling my own as well.

currently constructing a fume hood for my smelting pot to be vented to the outside so i can cast bullets in my basement.
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:13 PM   #10
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+1 on the Lyman cast bullet handbook.

I use a Lyman single cavity (385 gr) mold and a Lyman lubrisizer with Thompson's "Blue Angel" lube. I prefer to use gas checks. I cast from straight wheelweights.

That's not the only, or necessarily the best way, it's what works for me.

There is no way to describe the satisfaction I felt when I first bit into a venison steak from a big Mulie buck that I killed with my Marlin 1895 .45-70, shooting a hand load with a home cast bullet.
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