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Old 08-16-2013, 10:25 PM   #11
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The pure lead is valuable. I get free lead roofing pipe jackets from a buddy. The pure lead is handy for shotgun slugs and muzzle loader bullets when tin is added (20-1 lead to tin). I also use it to stretch out my harder wheel weight lead when I am casting bullets for low velocity applications like .44-40, .44 special, .38 Special and .45 ACP. I have sold off excesses of pure lead on evilbay to finance more wheel weights.

Tin is the most overlooked casting metal (in my opinion). Wheel weights have almost no tin. While they cast a reasonably hard bullet, the introduction of 2-4% tin greatly enhances the bullet. They come out sharper, cleaner, brighter and a little harder than just with wheel weights.

Tin is easily added with 50/50 bar solder. I get mine through Rotometals.

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Old 08-20-2013, 05:36 AM   #12
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Lead bullets in a revolver:
The bullets should be a snug slip fit in the cylinder's throats.
You need to slug the barrel and be sure the bullets are also at least 0.001" larger than groove diameter.
I despise plated bullets (all I ever got was horrible accuracy compared to lead bullets) and never had any issue with "smoke" or "gunk."
Compare the price of a case of Montana Gold bullets or buying in bulk from Precision Delta. They used to be the same cost as plated and MUCH more accurate.
If you shoot L-HBWCs, be sure not to exceed 800fps or so. I prefer about 0.1-0.25" of bullet in the throat for a revolver and not seated flush with the case mouth.

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