30-.06 Milsurp ammo question...
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Old 02-27-2009, 11:09 PM   #1
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Default 30-.06 Milsurp ammo question...

I bought a case of military ball 30-.06 at a gun show recently, however the individual boxes don't have the bullet grain on them. The ammo boxes have a 1963 date on them. Does anyone know what the likely bullet grain is on this ammo? Also, a gun shop owner recently told me to be careful, that shooting some of today's factory loads might be too much for my M1 Garand. What do ya'll think? What is the threshold that I should stay under as far as muzzle velocity? The reason for the questions is that I am getting ready to begin finding the most accurate round for my M1 and need to know what to stay away from(besides Wolf and Silver Bear!) Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 02-28-2009, 12:58 AM   #2
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BE VERY CAREFUL WHAT YOU FEED A M1 GARAND. The m1 wasnt designed when slow burning powders were around. When reloading stick with the mid range burning rates powders like 4320 or 4895 or 4064. Newer slow burning powders have a different peak preasure rating and will destroy your m1 op rod! Original M2 ammo used a 150 grain flat based bullet over 48 grains of IMR 4895 powder.Does your ammo have the M2 labeling? Stay away from factory soft point ammo as it WILL damage your rifle. If you have any other questions or need more help just pm me.

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Old 02-28-2009, 01:14 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30-30remchester View Post
BE VERY CAREFUL WHAT YOU FEED A M1 GARAND. The m1 wasnt designed when slow burning powders were around. When reloading stick with the mid range burning rates powders like 4320 or 4895 or 4064. Newer slow burning powders have a different peak preasure rating and will destroy your m1 op rod! Original M2 ammo used a 150 grain flat based bullet over 48 grains of IMR 4895 powder.Does your ammo have the M2 labeling? Stay away from factory soft point ammo as it WILL damage your rifle. If you have any other questions or need more help just pm me.
I don't reload so some of what you said is outta my league right now. To answer your question, yes the box says M2 Military Ball. However, the bullets are soft point(lead) yet the boxes were unopened.
I've been looking at factory ballistics tables but they don't list pressures, just grain weight, muzzle velocity, and energy. So how do I know what pressures the manufacturers load their specific rounds?
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Old 02-28-2009, 01:38 AM   #4
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I don't reload so some of what you said is outta my league right now. To answer your question, yes the box says M2 Military Ball. However, the bullets are soft point(lead) yet the boxes were unopened.
I've been looking at factory ballistics tables but they don't list pressures, just grain weight, muzzle velocity, and energy. So how do I know what pressures the manufacturers load their specific rounds?
If you will give me more imfo on the ammo such as brand, bullet weight, headstamp imfo, box imfo, ect. I will ask members of the cartridge collecters association. I should get a reply in a day or two. Better safe than sorry.
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:09 PM   #5
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If it says M-2 from 1963, you are GTG in a Garand. That is safe for your rifle. What is the head stamp? LC, TW, PS, KA, etc.

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Old 02-28-2009, 02:29 PM   #6
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I hear rumors to the effect that Hornaday is supposed to be getting ready to market some soft point ammo that is suitable for garands. Just a rumor hope its true.

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Old 02-28-2009, 04:01 PM   #7
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OOPS! I just noticed, you said the bullets were soft points. That is NOT M-2 ball despite what the box may say. USE EXTREME CAUTION WITH THIS AMMO.

It is possible someone pulled the FMJ's and simply inserted 150gr soft points.

It is equally likely someone boxed reloads in the M-2 boxes. There is NO way of knowing exactly what you have!

This could be someones pet handload that is very dangerous for you and/or your Garand.

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Old 03-01-2009, 12:32 AM   #8
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Guys, I just double checked. The ammo in the boxes are indeed 1963 ball ammo. What happened was I had bought some rounds of ammo with some enblocs I had bought. THOSE are soft points. I only have about 50 rounds of that. All the other ammo is ball ammo. So, I should get rid of the soft points but I'm fine with the ball, correct? Robo, the head stamp is HXP 63.

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Old 03-01-2009, 01:09 AM   #9
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HXP is Greek. Boxer primed, reloadable and a very good reputation. Get rid of the SP? That is a little harsh. The brass, primer and bullet are perfectly good. The powder "may" be good, it is an unknown factor. I would pull the bullets, scrap the powder and load with a known quantity of a known powder. Or, just sock it away for a rainy day. You never know when you might pick up a bolt gun in -06 and have a use for it.

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Old 03-01-2009, 01:29 AM   #10
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HXP is Greek. Boxer primed, reloadable and a very good reputation. Get rid of the SP? That is a little harsh. The brass, primer and bullet are perfectly good. The powder "may" be good, it is an unknown factor. I would pull the bullets, scrap the powder and load with a known quantity of a known powder. Or, just sock it away for a rainy day. You never know when you might pick up a bolt gun in -06 and have a use for it.
Sounds like a plan. Now I need to find some modern accurate factory ammo that's safe.
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