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Old 10-30-2013, 12:54 AM   #21
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Camo,

My only thought is the non-uniformity of the brass removed with the tool and primer pocket contact area. As it seems from the pictures they are not uniform on the crimped area removed. Some could be easier to load but also possibly not standardized required support for the primer when fired in the pocket? Only a thought! And a primer crimp tool is not expensive and has a pilot to keep it true centered while removing the crimp and removes the same amount of material every time.

03

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Old 10-30-2013, 02:49 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper03
Camo, My only thought is the non-uniformity of the brass removed with the tool and primer pocket contact area. As it seems from the pictures they are not uniform on the crimped area removed. Some could be easier to load but also possibly not standardized required support for the primer when fired in the pocket? Only a thought! And a primer crimp tool is not expensive and has a pilot to keep it true centered while removing the crimp and removes the same amount of material every time. 03
I see what you are saying about uniformity. The only other concern I had was whether less contact surface between the primer and pocket would cause blown primers. I'll look into adding a swager to the bench.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:49 PM   #23
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For low pressure stuff like handgun brass, I normally cut the crimp w/the deburring tool. I do not like to remove metal from the critical case head area on high pressure ammo like .223. Will it cause problems? Maybe not, I would just prefer to not risk it.

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Old 10-30-2013, 09:05 PM   #24
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Myself I've always used a RCBS swage tool.. Then I went hog wild on brass collecting and bought the Dillon Super Swage...

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Old 11-06-2013, 12:27 AM   #25
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+1 on the RCBS swage tool to remove the crimp.
It's some effort to work it, but a lot faster than using teh deburring tool>

I just realized I should prolly be lubricating the primer pocket/ tool for less effort in the future..... Duh.

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