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Old 09-17-2011, 11:17 PM   #21
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OK, I didn't bother watching that.



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Old 09-28-2011, 10:19 AM   #22
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Thanks so much, Tom for this vid. I haven't seen a cap and ball loaded before and it explained a lot.



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Old 09-30-2011, 02:22 AM   #23
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Reading this article, me need range time. The wife parents from Germany and they do not like any type of weapon. No playtime for another two weeks!

I have been using pyrodex fffg, using caps #11 and firing Hornady Blackpowder 44 Cal .454

I have been using 20 grain, take a grain or two if the wind a blown hard!

The wad is pre-moist with lube.

No issues and the pistols are cleaned once I am home. The other toys get a cleaning after the blackpowder pistol(s) are done and the coffee is ready!

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Old 12-11-2011, 05:08 AM   #24
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I've loaded and fired a lot of rounds through cap and ball revolvers over the past 30 years. One thing you have to watch out for is oil in the chambers. If you are loading a brand new revolver for the first time there is a good chance there will be oil in each chamber, they are shipped that way, if you have shot it before and cleaned and oiled it up good afterwards then you will need to make sure each chamber is dry of the oil. Oil and black powder, or pyrodex don't mix well at all, in fact pyrodex is worse than good old fashioned black powder, it just takes a little oil to ruin the load and what you will get is a fizz bang, if any bang at all, and the ball will be any where between the mouth of the chamber to several feet in front of you on the ground, believe me I'v had it happen many a time when I forgot to clean the oil left after cleaning out of the chambers, had to actually pull the loads by hand one time, pyrodex refused to even fizzle. Also if you use a lubed wad over the powder that is soaked with liquid lube, wonder wads are dry lubed by the way, or at least they used to be, then the lube will soak down into the powder charge and cause the same problem. I always loaded my charge of powder, a dry felt wad, then the ball, and then some form of paste lube to cover the mouth of the chamber, at least I did once I figured out just how little oil it took to ruin the powder, especially on a nice hot day. Good luck.

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Old 12-14-2011, 01:51 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vulture View Post
I've loaded and fired a lot of rounds through cap and ball revolvers over the past 30 years. One thing you have to watch out for is oil in the chambers. If you are loading a brand new revolver for the first time there is a good chance there will be oil in each chamber, they are shipped that way, if you have shot it before and cleaned and oiled it up good afterwards then you will need to make sure each chamber is dry of the oil. Oil and black powder, or pyrodex don't mix well at all, in fact pyrodex is worse than good old fashioned black powder, it just takes a little oil to ruin the load and what you will get is a fizz bang, if any bang at all, and the ball will be any where between the mouth of the chamber to several feet in front of you on the ground, believe me I'v had it happen many a time when I forgot to clean the oil left after cleaning out of the chambers, had to actually pull the loads by hand one time, pyrodex refused to even fizzle. Also if you use a lubed wad over the powder that is soaked with liquid lube, wonder wads are dry lubed by the way, or at least they used to be, then the lube will soak down into the powder charge and cause the same problem. I always loaded my charge of powder, a dry felt wad, then the ball, and then some form of paste lube to cover the mouth of the chamber, at least I did once I figured out just how little oil it took to ruin the powder, especially on a nice hot day. Good luck.
And I never use a wad, just powder & ball, maybe a little butter on the ball.
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:34 PM   #26
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Im with the other two posters about contamination, It looks like your powder is contaminated by wad grease, you lost at least 50% your propellant so its reduced to almost squib load type velocity?
To unload did you saturate the powder before the load was removed? or is that the way you pulled it from the cylinder?
I have to ask why ther's grease behind the ball over the powder? isnt the grease supposed to be on top the ball to lube its way down the barrel on firing? The sharply defined rifling marks of the ball look about right.
I'd say just try one cylinder of just powder and bare ungreased ball (NO Wad), try firing that? I bet you get allot the performance you were hoping for!

I use a drywall screw and tugg out the ball when unloading and dump the powder,
I never use over powder wads, never had your troubles either, Ive been useing Pyrodex P that a buddy gave me 20 years ago and its old then (paper cans with tin top & bottoms), still shoots great.
I never use grease on the cylinder mouths either, just tight fitting caps and a larger ball (.457)
My first time shooting cap & balls (EMF 1851 reb in .44) I had a chainfire because of i'll fitting caps I'd pinched to fit the nipple, Never made that mistake again.





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