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YoungGun 01-10-2009 09:27 PM

Traditions fox river fifty
i just bought a used Traditions fox river fifty, .50 cal. however it did not come with a manual so if anybody can give me info on it, that would be great. ex, how much powder to use, primers, cleaners..... or know where i can download one. i tried and they did not have it.


canebrake 01-10-2009 10:08 PM YoungGun, Glad to have you aboard.

I'm not a black powder guy but someone will be along soon.

Where U @ stalkingbear? Help!!


c3shooter 01-11-2009 02:44 AM

Not familair with YOUR gun- I shoot CVAs and Thompson/Center, traditional STYLE muzzleloaders that are percussion cap weapons. First, MOST reloading manuals will have a short section on muzzleloaders. Second, never use anything but black powder OR black powder subsitute, such as Pyrodex, Triple 7, etc. Third- never load a "just fired" rifle- the spark waiting down there will put you in the ranks of the "No Eyebrows" club. Same applies to loading a capped rifle. 4th- There are two types of BP shooters- those that have loaded a ball with no powder, and those that WILL do so at a future date. Learn how to remove the bullet when ya screw up. Sequence is powder-ball-cap. Last- NEVER- I mean NEVER- fire a rifle that the bullet is not fully seated on the powder charge. If crud from earlier shots has caused you bullet to get stuck partway down the bore, trying to shoot it out may kill you. While this may be an improvement of the human gene pool (removing dumb people from breeding population) it is rough on innocent bystanders at the range.:rolleyes:

As far as charge/ bullet- the traditional load is 1 to 2 times the caliber, in grains of powder. So a 50 caliber would use 50-100 grains of powder. Somewhere between those 2 numbers is the charge that will give you the best accuracy. However, that is for a patched ball- if you are shooting saboted bullets, most come with their own recommendations on powder charges. Damaging a rifle from overloading with black powder is not really possible- all that cannot burn gets blown downrange (and wasted) For caps- if percussion, usually standard #11 caps. If yours is a modern muzzlestuffer that uses 209 shotgun primers, there IS a 209 primer made JUST for muzzleloaders. Check your local gun shop.

Get a reloaders manual, contact the company (bet if you search, you'll find a website) take your time, and enjoy it.

YoungGun 01-18-2009 09:27 PM


i dident relize how much there is to shooting a muzzleloader. if im shooting sabots with the plastic around them. you still need to use a wad correct?

c3shooter 01-19-2009 08:11 AM

With saboted bullets, follow the instructions of whoever made the sabot- but in most cases, no. The sabot takes the place of wad/ patching. To tell you the truth, I stick to REAL soft lead maxi's- Where I live has a 2 month RIFLE season for deer- so if I want to shoot hollow point/ ballistic tip bullets- I go pull out a 308/243/303/7.62R/8mm etc. That 400 gr lead maxi ball will drop a deer faster than a bad habit.

hunter Joe 01-20-2009 05:17 PM

Young Gun, E-Mail Traditions, I'm sure they will gladly send you a manual.

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