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-   -   Hawken build (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f22/hawken-build-13011/)

Hawg 04-18-2009 06:56 PM

Hawken build
 
Any Hawken fans here? I'm having one built that will be pretty close to historically accurate. Not 100% since it's being built on a budget but pretty dang close. I'm having one built since I can't even make firewood come out right. Mongrel over at Muzzleloading Life is building it and he does beautiful work. The barrel will be a little short at 32 inches but I can always change that out later when funds permit. Wood is Dunlap grade 3 curly maple.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...ild/Hawken.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...ld/Hawken2.jpg

It has a slanted breech and hourglass tang, also the stock will have the correct taper.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...ld/Hawken3.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...ild/005-18.jpg
Lock, trigger guard and butt plate are all hand made by Mongrel. Nose cap will be one piece steel. Rear sight will be a dovetailed full buckhorn. Front will be a silver blade.

dunerunner 04-18-2009 09:01 PM

Keep us provided with pics of the build, it looks like it is coming along great!!

RL357Mag 04-23-2009 01:52 PM

Beautiful so far. Who makes the barrel? Period appropriate finish on a Hawken would be Plum Brown, blueing didn't exist back then. I built several kits and "browned" my .58cal Mountain Rifle. It looks great and is easier to apply than blueing!

Hawg 04-29-2009 07:33 PM

The startup barrel is a NOS CVA Mountain Rifle that's been modified to accept a snail breechplug. I'll change it out later on to a Green Mountain as funds permit. Plum brown isn't exactly correct either. Most Hawken's were sold in the white and aged naturally. The ones that were browned were horse pee browned. Mine will not be that authentic.:D It'll be rust browned.

Hawg 05-05-2009 12:48 AM

Ramrod hole is drilled and cheekpiece and sideplate panel roughed out. The panel has been stretched and pointed somewhat from the original inked-in lines on the blank, more in keeping with correct Hawken styling. The ends will have still more point to them, without there actually being an angle rasped and sanded into the wood, but this is the rough shaping with a lot of wood still to be removed.

The line of the cheekpiece, if extended through the wrist, would continue along the upper curve of the sideplate panel which is a small detail of correct Hawken architecture.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...d/006-20-1.jpg

canebrake 05-05-2009 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hawg (Post 102259)
Ramrod hole is drilled and cheekpiece and sideplate panel roughed out. The panel has been stretched and pointed somewhat from the original inked-in lines on the blank, more in keeping with correct Hawken styling. The ends will have still more point to them, without there actually being an angle rasped and sanded into the wood, but this is the rough shaping with a lot of wood still to be removed.

The line of the cheekpiece, if extended through the wrist, would continue along the upper curve of the sideplate panel which is a small detail of correct Hawken architecture.

Great stuff, I love woodworking.

Keep the build eye-candy coming, and if you don't mind, maybe a guesstimate of the cost?

Thanks Hawg.

dnthmn2004 05-05-2009 01:28 AM

I too, love woodworking. Birdseye Maple and Curly Maple are some of the most beautiful woods to work with IMO.

I'm thinking of whipping up some stocks sometime.

RL357Mag 05-05-2009 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hawg (Post 100290)
The startup barrel is a NOS CVA Mountain Rifle that's been modified to accept a snail breechplug. I'll change it out later on to a Green Mountain as funds permit. Plum brown isn't exactly correct either. Most Hawken's were sold in the white and aged naturally. The ones that were browned were horse pee browned. Mine will not be that authentic.:D It'll be rust browned.

My CVA Mountain Rifle is an early 1980's vintage kit. The .58 cal. barrel is extremely accurate as it pre-dates the bad batches they received from Spain in the late 80's. Shooting 585gr. hollow base bullets it kicks more than a 12 ga.. Unlike yours, the lousy CVA stock (almost no drop) necessitated getting my cheek real low for a proper sight picture, and was the cause of black,blue, and yellow facial discoloration the first time I sighted it in. It took 12 shots to get the sights dead on and the right side of my face looked like I was in a fight with Mike Tyson when I was done.....

Hawg 05-05-2009 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by canebrake (Post 102267)
Great stuff, I love woodworking.

Keep the build eye-candy coming, and if you don't mind, maybe a guesstimate of the cost?

Thanks Hawg.

As to cost I can't really say. We did some horse trading on it and a full cash price never came up.

Hawg 06-08-2009 06:29 AM

update
 
It's getting there. Commentary is from the builder.


lots of sanding done, some serious shaping taking place. This is all 60 and then 80-grit work, BTW, which is the stage at which the polish left by sharp chisels and gouges is ground away, and the polish to come from progressively finer sheets of paper isn't there, yet, so you won't see much curl in the wood right now.

Right and left views of the butt and breech area. The lock panels are going to be slimmed up more, but when working with 60 and 80 grit paper on an oscillating sander it's best not to try to get too fancy on small details. That comes later.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...1776/018-5.jpg

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...1776/019-2.jpg

An interesting shot of the cheekpiece contour, showing how its curve is in line with the top curve of the sideplate panel. The slight downward curve as the cheekpiece blends into the wrist will fade away with finer and more detailed sanding.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...1776/021-2.jpg

The butt, from the top, showing both cast-off and the slimness the comb is taking on. On my inexpensive trade rifles I don't cut this detail quite as fine, but I've noticed that on the Hawkens I've seen the comb tapers to a very slender, almost pointed profile when seen from above, and that's a detail I very much wanted to capture on this gun. It's getting there. Removing wood in this area is best done in stages, or you lose perspective and can quickly end up with something that causes you to give serious thought to taking up finger painting or coloring books, something a little less critical/stressful.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...1776/022-1.jpg


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