FFFG .50 cal. inline charge - Page 2
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:35 PM   #11
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I use 3 shot groups generally, with sabots I'd run a damp patch down the barrel after every shot, this keeps the fouling down and makes it a lot easier to load.
Keep in mind that I shoot traditional side locks with a patched round ball,
But the technique is the same.

Start out shooting for group size, don't worry about where you're at on the target, adjust your powder load 5 gr at a time till you get your tightest group then adjust your sights to center.

Also lose the pellets and get loose powder, it's cheaper and gives better control of your load

Hope this helps
Galen

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Old 07-23-2014, 03:18 AM   #12
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I found out also the pellets went down in accuracy but mine where 4or 5 years old. I have a lot more hang fires or slow ignition with the pellets after the third or fourth year after I got them. I still like real black powder if u can find it. The powder measure is usually a sliding tube that has a scale for volume on it. You can adjust it down to 20 grains up to 150 or 180 or so. The BP substitutes usually are a direct volume for volume replacement.The triple seven I think you have to reduce it by 20%.it will have this info on the can. I have found out that the most accurate loads are 80 to 110 grains. My riffle will Handel up to 150 also but it's not that accurate with that much podwer.


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Old 07-23-2014, 03:21 AM   #13
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Forgot to add that the adjustable measures are usually under 20$ wall mart had them


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Old 07-23-2014, 06:29 AM   #14
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This thread was revived by a new member looking for a breech plug.

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Old 10-18-2014, 01:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 303tom View Post
In a inline use 3 50gr. pellets = 150gr behind a 290 grain bullet.....................
Do not use 150 gr unless your rifle is rated for this much powder. If it's a magnum it will be ok.
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Old 10-18-2014, 04:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDsaid42 View Post
Thanks for the responses gentlemen. I didn't really have enough knowledge at the time of purchase but Gander Mountain didn't have T-7 FFG so I went ahead and purchsed FFFG. I see on the Hogdon site that FFFG is normally used in up to .50 calibre so I will try it. Others have also told me not to weigh muzzle loader charges so I will use volume. Bottom line however....if I end up at 150 gr. equiv. FFFG is it going to be safe. The Hogdon tables only go up to 100 gr. of anything. I always used three 50 gr. equiv. pellets up to now. Have a lot of spoiled pellets that I am going to pitch. Are measures expensive and can one get a set of various volumes? My first year using pellets was fairly successful but went down hill as the pellets aged. Going to be hard to get used to volume measuring as I have only loaded for my 6mm Rem. in the past and precise doesn't doesn't adequately describe the care I take with that ammo. My 6mm Blitz-kings go into half minute if I do my aiming job well.
I shoot 90 gr. Pyrodex "P" which is FFFG equiv. in my inline or sidehammer. It's faster ignition than FFG. DO NOT USE FFFG in any thing larger than .50 cal. Remember, never pour powder from a container,(horn, flask) as a live spark may still be in the barrel and that would not be good. pour directly into a measure. Also if using a bullet puller, be sure it's made of brass. Never steel as as a spark an be created and that's not good either...
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:00 AM   #17
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Hello,

I would keep numbers relatively low since you're using 3Fg instead of 2Fg.

"Relatively" means using round-ball charges. They should be plenty, anyway.

A good rule of thumb is that for up to .45 caliber, 3Fg should be used. Higher, 2Fg should be used. However, there are some who are questioning this and find they have good results with the 3Fg in larger calibers.

Now, that said, I recommend a starting load of 50 grains by volume for a .50 caliber. The max load is half the weight of a round ball in that caliber, or 95 grains by volume.

What does your bore look like? You said accuracy has dropped off. How do you clean it? Do you clean it after shooting it every time?

Start at 50. Work in 10 grain increments to 100 grains or so. You have a bit more wiggle room since this is an inline, but you still don't want to tempt fate. To me, 150 grains is an overcharge and a waste of powder. What is your goal using this charge?

Look at it this way: You're shooting saboted .45 caliber bullets.

If you compare the rifle to a cartridge rifle, you've got the rough equivalent of a .45-70. Keep in mind, though, that they also made .45-40 (the .45 Colt pistol load), the .44-40, the .45-70, the .45-90, and the .45-120.

Noplace did they find that anything above 120 grains was a good idea.

Even with full-bore bullets, they seem to stop at 140 grains of BP. (.50-140 Sharps)

We're talking some of the most powerful rifles of the day here, capable of taking anything in North America.

Just back off to 50 or 60 grains by volume and work up until you find something accurate. If you find you need a flatter trajectory, work up again until you find the next accuracy node. I'm sticking with 100 grains by volume being your absolute upper practical limit.

Regards,

Josh

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Old 11-01-2014, 08:31 PM   #18
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Just a general word of caution is all. I don't know the specs for all of the Magnum ML rifles, but right in the manual for my Wolf and my Optima it states that the 150 grain charge only applies to pelletized powder, Max for loose powder is 100 grains.

Read your manuals folks. If the gun didn't come with one, check the company website, or write them for a replacement. I'm sure no one here wants to end up wiping their azz with a hook, and an overcharge could lead to that.

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