CVA 50 cal Mountain percussion - Page 4
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:14 AM   #31
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eaglesnester-"1in66 twist is strictly a round ball rifle. U can try bullets however you will probably experience inaccuracy and key holing beyond 35 meters or so."

Respectfully, my experience has been very positive with the Lee REAL 250gr in my .50 Mountain Rifle. 90gr of FF under a greased felt wad will give me 2" 100yd groups from a solid bench rest. I have had no sign of instability out to that range.

I'll be working with a Mountain rifle in .58 soon and will begin my accuracy trials this time with a Lee REAL.

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Old 10-31-2012, 12:18 PM   #32
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I have tried the REAL in both a .45 with a 1:66 and a .50 with a 1:48. In the .45 I couldn't hold better then 12" group at 75 yards with some hitting perfectly sideways. With the .50 I could hold a 6" group. Love they way they look, cast and load, my smoke poles just don't like them. Still have the 2 cavity .50 if someone is interested, can have it for the cost of sending it.

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Old 11-01-2012, 01:56 AM   #33
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I used the bucket of hot soapy water method for years, and still do ever so often, but have found a much easier method. After shooting at the range most of the day, I cap off the nipple with a little cap-size rubber plug I found somewhere in my travels (a sacrificial percussion cap will serve the purpose), and set the hammer down to hold it in place. I then fill the barrel with my juice, and lean the rifle against a tree for about 12 ounces or 20 minutes. (My juice is made from a gallon of windshield washer fluid, with about 3 ounces of soluble oil and 2 tablespoons of Dawn liquid detergent.) When the time's up, I pour out the juice and use 2 or 3 patches to dry. Sometimes the first patch will come out a little grey, but at least by the second patch it's as clean as a whistle.

I use the same stuff on a patch to wipe down all the metal on the outside, and then pull the nipple and clean it too. When done, I wipe everything (inside & out) down with Sheath, which I think is a Birchwood Casey product.

When shooting, I run a dry patch down after every shot. The only time fouling is a problem, is on really hot days when the humidity is up around a million percent, and the mosquitos are layin on the the grass, pantin'. Then, a moist patch (not wet) before the dry patch, after every 3 or 4 shots, will take care of the problem. Sometimes I carry a few patches moistened with my juice in a snuff can, for just such an occasion.)

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Old 11-01-2012, 02:05 AM   #34
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cool advise! Thanks

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Old 11-01-2012, 10:58 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skip
I used the bucket of hot soapy water method for years, and still do ever so often, but have found a much easier method. After shooting at the range most of the day, I cap off the nipple with a little cap-size rubber plug I found somewhere in my travels (a sacrificial percussion cap will serve the purpose), and set the hammer down to hold it in place. I then fill the barrel with my juice, and lean the rifle against a tree for about 12 ounces or 20 minutes. (My juice is made from a gallon of windshield washer fluid, with about 3 ounces of soluble oil and 2 tablespoons of Dawn liquid detergent.) When the time's up, I pour out the juice and use 2 or 3 patches to dry. Sometimes the first patch will come out a little grey, but at least by the second patch it's as clean as a whistle.

I use the same stuff on a patch to wipe down all the metal on the outside, and then pull the nipple and clean it too. When done, I wipe everything (inside & out) down with Sheath, which I think is a Birchwood Casey product.

When shooting, I run a dry patch down after every shot. The only time fouling is a problem, is on really hot days when the humidity is up around a million percent, and the mosquitos are layin on the the grass, pantin'. Then, a moist patch (not wet) before the dry patch, after every 3 or 4 shots, will take care of the problem. Sometimes I carry a few patches moistened with my juice in a snuff can, for just such an occasion.)
Don't know what your shooting but I suspect too much powder. I have shot mine at least 30 or more times without ever running a patch threw it. I use round balls and a generously lubed patch. Yes I might have to smack the ball starter a little harder at the end.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:23 PM   #36
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I shoot a .495 roundball wrapped in a .012 ticking patch, pushed with 60 rains of fff. It's real tight to start with, and I don't need to make it any harder. I run the dry patch just in case, and to ensure consistency. I use "dry" patches to shoot with, again for consistency. They're only dry to the touch, and are made up with a 6:1 ratio of water to soluble oil, soaked into the patch strip and allowed to dry for a day or so to evaporate the water out. Other ratios may be better for my gun (TC Hawken), but I haven't got around yet to experimenting - I started off with 6:1, to get in the ballpark, and it worked pretty good. I could probably make it better, but my eyes are fading fast and it wouldn't make much difference.

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Old 11-02-2012, 12:10 AM   #37
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I shot .490 round balls, and well lubed patch and have great constancy. I use pyrodex and to tell the truth I can't recall how many grains, I set my measure about 30 years ago.

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Old 11-02-2012, 12:26 PM   #38
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Quote:
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I shot .490 round balls, and well lubed patch and have great constancy. I use pyrodex and to tell the truth I can't recall how many grains, I set my measure about 30 years ago.


I had to buy a new measure because of that reason (old one isn't marked).
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:00 PM   #39
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I never use water to clean modern carbon steel barrels. The old soft iron barrels of the past were cleaned with water. I doubt you would clean your modern steel barreled 700 Remington with water.

Clean you BP firearms with a moisture displacement such as alcohol. Pour some low moisture alcohol 92 to 98% down the bore let it set 5 minutes. Then pour in some Murphys Oil Soap. Pump the misture in the bore with a patched jag. Pour the alcohol and MOS out and rinse with some more alchol. The bore will dry fast. Use some Balistol or other light oil in the bore etc. Never use window cleaners which are 90 % water and harsh detergents which can cause flash rust.

I shoot many matches each year. I use the Rice round bottom match barrels and you take very good care to keep them smooth. So far as patch lube a wet cleaner such as Hoppies BP Plus can keep a rifle accurate all day with little or no cleaning. The heavy wax lubes like Bore Butter and the all the secret home made heavy lubes dry patches etc. give poor results during long shoots.

If you ever have to remove a breech plug from a water or window cleaner soaked barrel you will see the damage. The water rust the plug threads and often can not be removed. Barrels subjected to water and Pyrodex will have a tar like glaze after long use.

These are Rice barrled flinters. They are very accurate and I want them to stay that way.


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