Well, thanks to Duelist1954's video on the 1860 Army revolver I decided to order one from Cabelas. This will be not only my first revolver, but also my first blackpowder firearm. I can't wait till it arrives :D!
Ol' Buffalo Muzzleloading Guide
Good quality Nipple wrench
Good nipple capper.
Flask with proper Charge (gr) spout for your revolver (never directly from flask to chamber)
possibility of the powder flask blowing off your hand
I use a brass powder measure with funnel to load the chambers
Stay with MFg recommended charge volumes (dixie Gun Works catalog is a great resource)
look at the diffrent vid's on cleaning.
I suggest never forceing the wedge in when assembling, use the heel of your hand.
Double charging is very possible when useing powder and ball, The cylinders are very deep and allow this easily to happen. I dont recomend doing this as you can jack the cylinder base pin right out the frame which is threaded in and pinned at factory, (setting barrel tension/cylinder clearance), you hammer the wedge in too tight and you risk damaging the frame permanently.She should be mild shooting like shooting .44 special loads out a .44mag, your open top colt clone .44 should not buck from recoil when firing, Its too hot if it does and will shoot loose in time (Did it and been there).
Hunt up the correct size caps for your revolver, NEVER settle for Loose caps your just begging for a chain fire, Ive shot my revolvers for the last 27 years and never had problems once I switched to tite caps,Use a wood dowel rod to snugg the caps (never metal as you'll set off the cap)
IF you have pinch you caps - your gonna chain fire.Loose balls I'd suggest getting a larger ball and shave a good ring of lead, balls that slide in with hardly any ring are too loose and will work forward when fireing,
you can swell marginal size balls with a hammer some to load and get your healthy lead ring,
[ Its best to proper fitting componets that you need and never settle for less than optimum like loose caps and small balls.[/COLOR]dont be scared to oiler her up when putting it away, in fact you should pull it out just to check it, WD-40 has a fish oil base that once dries the oil oxidizes/gums up over time, thats why they developed it for the Redstone Rocket guidence system to seal moisture out, same way they use linseed oil to seal aircraft tubeing on inside(super cubs).
The aerosol wand is wonderful for lubeing all the nooks and crannies of the open top cap & ball.
I bought a M-16 cleaning tooth brush for the action (hammer groove)
I keep Q-Tips too as well as bits of rag and paper towel, A 410 shotgun bore mop is nice as well as the .44 brass brush and cleaning patch tip's.
Thanks for all the good information. I've got most of the accudarments for it except for powder, a flask, balls, and caps. Do you know of any online sources I could get either Goex blackpowder or Swiss blackpowder?
This is the best place. prices include shipping and hazmat. Powder Inc. - Black Powder for shooters, and more
If the gun is a steel frame you can't overload it with real bp or Pyrodex. The chambers simply wont hold enough. If it's a brass frame keep loads under 25 grains. I use 30 in my steel frames.
Cleanup is with hot soapy water and keep any petroleum based lubes out of the bore and chambers unless you want to clean it out with alcohol before you shoot. Don't let the hammer down from half cock. Always pull it back to full cock before lowering it unless you want a rub ring on the cylinder.
Thanks for the link, Hawg. I need to correct a typo; I actually ordered the Pietta 1851 Navy revolver. It's a brass frame and I only plan on using around a 20-15 grain load in it. Once I get the money I want to get the 1860 Army, 1858 Remington, and Walker.
I use Ballistol and it comes with instructions on how to mix it with water to clean blackpowder. Do you think this will suffice or should I use something else?
It will do fine you just don't need it.
steel frame 1860's do shoot loose
enjoy your new revolver, I shure did with mine.
My first open top was a USED Brass frame (ASM)1851 Reb .44 from Cabellas that had a broken hammer spring I bought from the Sidney NE Store for $27,
I got home I fabricated a new hammer spring from a strip of circular saw blade (still works today)
I bought the only percussion caps they had (they fit loose) got home fix'd the spring and loaded it up with the .454 balls and pyrodex P and pinched the caps like they say to do, first time firing that cap & ball I had a chain fire on 3 cylinders, next time around I crisco'd all the cylinders and she chainfired on 2, so I ended up loading just one chamber at a time till I got better fitting caps, the .454's worked fine in the 1851 but had a tendency to work loose in the 1860 as they hardly shaved any lead when loading, I fix'd that by bumping them with a hammer swelling them some (egg shape) and then ramming them in cylinder (got a thin ring shaving) they will shoot ok that way.
As I hadnt any flask back in the day, My first loads were measured by old method garnerd from Dixie Gunworks catalog years ago, Placeing a ball in slightly cupped palm and dribble powder on ball till top of ball is just coverd, its amazeingly close to what the powder flask nipple throws, I bought the measure you see above soon after.
How to properly use that cap & ball revolver [Archive] - Benelli USA Forums
Cap N Ball Basics
Here are a few sites that helped me out when I first got my 1860 army, they helped me a lot.
If you like to shoot a lot... the lighter the load the better with a brass frame.
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