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-   -   1858 revolver (http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f22/1858-revolver-26240/)

saviorslegacy 04-17-2010 06:47 PM

1858 revolver
 
My father was interested in one and last night he sat down and was prowly through the internet comparing prices. At first my thoughts were, "meh, I want a revolver, but I want something like a peace maker" but then I read a little bit about them.
I was quite intrigued about this revolver after I saw one loaded. IMO, all guns go bang, but not all are loader the same/have the same method of putting the next round into the chamber.
This gun takes a while to reload, and is very unique.
Now a few months ago I was looking into what was called a Colt Revolving Rifle. During this time I read about a horrible little thing called chain firing, which had been known to blow off peoples hands (OW!).
I was afraid that this, being a revolver from the same era, would have the same draw backs. I was correct, but luckily we are now smart enough to avoid such... accidents.
I read that you can use greased bullets, grease your chambers or use greased cloth behind the bullet. I also read that you cut up a t-shirt and rub some crisco on it so that it will act in the place of the wads that you would have to buy (is this accurate information?)

I then read a story about, hands blowing up. So I have learned my lesson that smokeless powder is not meant to be used here.
Then I read about hands blowing up, again. So I learned that you must always shove the ball ALL of the way down and compress the powder some.
Once again, hands are getting blown up buy this weapon. The lesson this time is to accurately measure your powder.
Alright, I think that concludes the destruction of body parts segment, time to move on.

So that is what I have learned so far. I want to know if I have anything wrong or if you guys know something that I don't (which you always seem to do.....).
Now what I do not know is how powerful this weapon is. I read somewhere that it is comparable to a modern .380...
Is this true or is it hog wash?
ps I want a .44 and in that video he has a .36.
What is the .44 comparable too?

Now onto the guns that I have my eyes on.
I like this one the most:
Cabela's -- 1858 New Army Stainless Steel .44 Caliber Target Revolver

(and) this one:
Cabela's -- 1858 New Army .44 Caliber Revolver

With the little but of knowledge I have about these weapons it looks to me like the only difference is the finish......
If that is so why is the other one like 130$ more?
Also, have I made a good choice on what revolver to get?


ps I read that there is a safety in between each shot. There is a hammer rest there so that you cannot accidently shoot your gun.
Why didn't they use this in later models? It seems like a good way to prevent accidents to me. Instead they came up with that half cock safety and people started to only load 5 chambers...... -_-

saviorslegacy 04-19-2010 03:43 PM

will someone at least tell me I have something right or that I have something wrong.

NGIB 04-19-2010 03:54 PM

If this was in the black powder section...:cool:

stalkingbear 04-19-2010 05:00 PM

It's just me but I always used plain round balls (slightly oversized) and shaved a light ring of lead when seating it in the cylinder. After the cylinder is loaded do I seal the cylinder holes in the front with grease. I've been shooting them like that my whole adult life without mishap. I don't use patches or wads, just grease in front of the ball after it's seated.

robocop10mm 04-19-2010 06:12 PM

Thread moved. The problem with the "expansion" premis is the balls are Dead soft, pure lead that deform quite easily. A 2X4 and bucket of water is hardly an accurate test medium for bullet expansion.

TXnorton 04-19-2010 07:07 PM

The 1958 (Remington) is a cap and ball pistol. There are also the Colt type open top cap and ball pistols. The Peacemaker is a cartridge round pistol, not a cap and ball. Different as night and day (I have both).

Cap and ball revolvers are as safe as the person using them.

Buy and read the Lyman's Black Powder Handbook.

Do some more research, and there are a number of informative videos on U-Tube on how to load and fire C&B pistols. I think Cabelas even had one in their on-line catalog website.

Grease over the ball or lubricated felt wads below the ball are effective counter-measures for chain fires. If you do either one properly, you should not have a chain fire.

No you can not use smokeless powder, no you can not have any airspace between the black powder and the ball or bullet (in any type BP firearm).

If you are going to carry a cap and ball pistol then you should only load 5 chambers and keep the hammer down on the empty chamber. I load all six when shooting at the range.

If you have any other specific other questions, post away!

saviorslegacy 04-19-2010 07:16 PM

Now I thought there was a hammer rest between chambers. That way you could load all 6 and carry it safely.

NGIB 04-19-2010 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by saviorslegacy (Post 272445)
Now I thought there was a hammer rest between chambers. That way you could load all 6 and carry it safely.

Ok, now I have to ask - carry as in a self-defense gun?

saviorslegacy 04-19-2010 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NGIB (Post 272458)
Ok, now I have to ask - carry as in a self-defense gun?

No, but when me and my father go into the woods we usually carry a gun. Mainly because it feels nice to carry and walk around freely. We also shoot some.
If need be it MIGHT be needed for self defense due to it being handy.
If I had my choice I would use a 1911 for seld defense.
I do have to say this though, the 1858 will provide a smoke screen for retreating to spend 30 minutes reloading. lol

Just wondering, why were you curious?

Hawg 04-19-2010 09:26 PM

Ok as for the price difference, stainless costs more plus it has adjustable sights where the blued model you posted doesn't.
Chain firing wont blow your hand off literally. Not saying it won't cause serious injury if your hand is in front of the cylinder when it chains. Chambers firing out of battery are very weak as there's no bore pressure and balls will only go a few yards. Lubing over the balls works to keep fouling soft as long as no petroleum based lubes are used. Only use vegetable based lubes like Crisco. Crisco gets very runny in summer heat so a lot of shooters make their own lubes or grease cookies form Crisco and beeswax. Others prefer lubed wads under the balls. The .44 is close to a .38 spcl in power maybe a little stronger. Round balls should be pure lead or very close to it and slightly bigger than chamber size so a ring of lead gets shaved on loading. Myself as most others prefer .454 balls for a .44. As for the safety between chambers it is there and I've used them with all six chambers loaded for over 40 years but I recommend just loading 5 unless you use a period correct holster that covers all the cylinder and most of the hammer. No Hollywood fast draw stuff. The revolvers Cabela's sells are Pietta's which are very good quality revolvers now days however most of them as well as Uberti can usually benefit from some smoothing of the internals. If stainless and adjustable sights aren't necessities for you you might check one of these out. It's Pietta's CCH model with checkered grips. The checkering isn't period correct and the CCH was only found on late production Remingtons but the action is smooth and the hammer is the lightest of any factory Remington clone I've seen.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...ngtons/cch.jpg


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