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**JTJ** · 05-04-2012, 06:56 PM

Ruger used to use walnut for their 10-22 stocks. My daughter has one of my old 10-22's with a walnut stock. I would say you lucked out. I like Tung Oil for a finish.

**mountainman13** · 05-04-2012, 06:57 PM

My 1989 Ruger has a walnut stock. Very nice. Congrats

**Commocarl** · 05-05-2012, 01:14 AM

Thanks guys!

The stock is tight pushing the front of the receiver in.

Synthetic Stock drops right in.

Wood stock, notice there is no gap at the front of the receiver.

It is really close on the sides of the barrel.

I almost think the tight fit will be good and stabilize the receiver. it is only tight there. I checked to make sure.

I am a little concerned with the stock touching the sides of the barrel. Should I take some of that off?

One last full shot of the rifle in the wood stock.

big shrek · 05-05-2012, 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Commocarl

Thanks guys!

The stock is tight pushing the front of the receiver in.

Synthetic Stock drops right in.

Wood stock, notice there is no gap at the front of the receiver.

It is really close on the sides of the barrel.

I almost think the tight fit will be good and stabilize the receiver. it is only tight there. I checked to make sure.

I am a little concerned with the stock touching the sides of the barrel. Should I take some of that off?

One last full shot of the rifle in the wood stock.

Shoot it first...see if it makes any real difference.
Sometimes the tightness of a stock will hold it steady...ya never know...

**axxe55** · 05-05-2012, 10:53 AM

CommoCarl, looks real good so far. like Big Shrek suggested, try it ou and see. there are those who glass bed 10/22's just like people do with any other rifle.

as a suggestion, i too like JTJ, like the Tung oil for a finish on wood. i used it years ago when refinishing furniture, and the end results on nice peice of wood are amazing. it's also very easy to use and get good results with. you can find it at any home improvement store or hardware store. the most common brand available is Formby's. also this line of products is excellent for stocks made of good wood.

**Commocarl** · 05-05-2012, 11:44 AM

Isn't the Birchwood Casey Tru-oil pretty much the same thing?

I was planning on the first coat tonight.

**axxe55** · 05-05-2012, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Commocarl

Isn't the Birchwood Casey Tru-oil pretty much the same thing?

I was planning on the first coat tonight.

been a long time since i used either, but the Tru Oil is more of a sealer and has to dry. the tung oil is a hand rubbed oil finish that you can apply and rub into the wood with either a rag or very fine steel wool and can be applied at anytime.

**mountainman13** · 05-05-2012, 09:53 PM

The tru-oil is a better finish. It seals and protects better.

dteed4094 · 05-05-2012, 11:51 PM

Tung oil is basicaly the same as BC. It too has to dry. You can start with BLO (boiled linseed oil) to bring the wood back to life then use Tung oil. I usuallu wind up with around 20 coats. Use 0000 steel wool about every second coat then finish the last coat with 600 wet sand. Then polish it with your bare hand and a lot of rubbing. Its a little time consuming but it's worth it. If you ever mar it you can spot finish and it won't show.

If there is only 1 screw holding the action in, do not relieve the barrel and the stock mating surfaces. It will never group again.

**mountainman13** · 05-05-2012, 11:57 PM

Boiled linseed and tung do have a beautiful look to them when done correctly and they have history behind them. But if you are doing a gun that is going to see weather etc they aren't the most protective finish.
And I would second his finishing statement. Unless you plan on creating a problem to fix.

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