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Old 02-29-2012, 10:55 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winds-of-change View Post
Well, I did buy a bore snake but I've not used it yet. It doesn't seem like it has enough scrubbing power to clean properly. And how do you clean the bore snake after you use it? Do you just throw it in the washing machine?
For thorough cleaning I use size larger. (.40 for 9mm, .45 for .40). After several uses just throw it in the washing machine with rags, cleaning pad, everything you use for cleaning your guns.
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:18 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by beaglesam View Post
For thorough cleaning I use size larger. (.40 for 9mm, .45 for .40). After several uses just throw it in the washing machine with rags, cleaning pad, everything you use for cleaning your guns.
Then what size would I buy for a .357/.38? I don't know what the next size up would be.
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Old 02-29-2012, 09:28 PM   #23
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"I clean from the breach of all my bolt actions now. Mainly so I don't get copper solvent in the recesses of my locking lugs. That could cause a dangerous situation if the surfaces corrode eliminating the perfect fit it already has.
I still clean those areas anyway, but if I don't cause more solvent to be deposited there, I feel a whole lot better."



That is a good point. If nothing else, cleaning from the breach does push debris and solvent out the end of the barrel rather than into the chamber, action, and trigger mechanism.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:42 AM   #24
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hey Cainbrake,
I not sure I understand. How can Phosphor Bronze, a typical material in a gun brushes, damage high grade barrel steel? It would seem to me as long as the brush material and rod material were softer than the barrel material it would be difficult to scratch the crown. I guess it would be possible but I think you would have to be a dufuss
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:31 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rfowlie View Post
hey Cainbrake,
I not sure I understand. How can Phosphor Bronze, a typical material in a gun brushes, damage high grade barrel steel? It would seem to me as long as the brush material and rod material were softer than the barrel material it would be difficult to scratch the crown. I guess it would be possible but I think you would have to be a dufuss
He isn't addressing the crown.

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Originally Posted by canebrake View Post
Anyone familiar with metal finishing will tell you to go only in the direction that the bullet travels. Never back and forth.

Anyone here ever finish a crankshaft or ground a cam? Its always done in the direction of rotation. Metal tends to "lay down" in the direction of travel during finishing.

Going in the opposite direction introduces a disruption in this "lay" and increases the coefficient of friction.

Will this harm your gun's rifling? Probably not in your rimfire. But what about that 200 yard trophy buck shot? Why take a chance?
People who are addressing the crown are going by the reasoning that "a typical material in a gun brushes," is steel. Specifically the wire holding the bristles together, and in some cases the end that screws into the rod.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rfowlie View Post
How can Phosphor Bronze, a typical material in a gun brushes, damage high grade barrel steel?
The differences in the smoothness of this bore is due to the copper jacket of a Hornady A-Max.

True or false - .22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion
True or false - .22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion

That is the result of a jacketed bullet being fired many times down a perfectly clean bore. Basically the same as a barrel break-in over an extended period of time.
Granted, there are enormous pressures and heat involved, but it is still a softer material affecting a harder material.

Cutting paper "damage[s]" a knife blade. I dare say that if you carved a bronze bar, it would dull the blade.

A good example of a soft material affecting quality steel is a barber sharpening a straight razor with a leather strap... and a man's beard dulling the razor.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:25 AM   #26
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NOTE: The barrel should lay horizontal with the ejection port facing during cleaning. Always clean the barrel form the CHAMBER end to the MUZZLE


The above was copied from the owner manual of a Remington 700. This is just a way that the Remington firearms suggest to clean the rifle. But, as with anything if you wish to deviate for the manufactures recommended procedures Please, do so.

REF: Rimington Model 700™ EXTRONX™ Bolt Action Rifle Owners Manuel , page 15
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Old 03-13-2012, 03:55 PM   #27
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I just looked at my old mil-surps.. Ive noticed not a single (matching per gun) cleaning rod is long enough to clean the rifle from the chamber end.. So Im guessing they were all cleaned from the muzzle and they all have great crowns.

Wonder how poor illiterate solders 50 years ago figured out how to clean their guns from the muzzle with steel rods in the middle of war and not mess up their barrel or crown??
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Old 03-13-2012, 04:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trez View Post
I just looked at my old mil-surps.. Ive noticed not a single (matching per gun) cleaning rod is long enough to clean the rifle from the chamber end.. So Im guessing they were all cleaned from the muzzle and they all have great crowns.

Wonder how poor illiterate solders 50 years ago figured out how to clean their guns from the muzzle with steel rods in the middle of war and not mess up their barrel or crown??
That was wartime rifles were disposable and not meant to shoot with extreme accuracy. Minute of enemy soldier was enough.

The risk is higher of damaging the crown doesnt mean your gonna wack chunks out everytime
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