![]() |
Thoughts about my new 0.22's
I purchased the Ruger 10/22 Sporter 22' with stainless steel, and GSG 1911 a few weeks ago. So far things are great with the Ruger 10/22 very accurate I love it. The GSG in the other hand is very inconsistent. It would be dead on for a few shots then horribly inaccurate on some. I noticed after many tarkets that the GSG was keyholing. So i tried different ammo, Mini-Mag, Remington Golden bullet, Winchester SuperX, CCI Velocitor, and it did the same thing. Then I took it apart and everything seemed fine. Until i looked down the barrel with a light. I noticed that there was a peice of metal protruding at the end of the barrel maybe a peice of metal that was not machined all the way? I'm currently at work now, so I'll post up pictures when I get home tomorrow. I was wondering if anyone with a GSG 1911 has had any similar problems or is this just a defect. I emailed ATI with pictures so I'm waiting for them to reply. I'll keep you guys posted.
|
I find many new barrels more than a little rough. With centerfire guns, I fire heavily jacketed bullets to smooth out the jagged edges. When things have smoothed up, I can shoot lead bullets.
With .22s, this isn’t really possible. The closest you can come is to use some copper washed high speed stuff like CCI Minimag. Shooting softer stuff will cause the accumulation of lead on rough edges eventually causing a bullet to be thrown from the group as it breaks off the enlarging chunk of lead. Then bullets go into the group as the lead continues to accumulate until it gets too big again and breaks off. In extreme cases, firelapping or hand lapping may be necessary. I haven’t tried fire lapping, but I have hand lapped with JB Bore Bright a couple of new .22 that were rough. If you go that route, try using 6 or 7 fore and aft strokes with the rod, then clean the bore and shoot it to see the results. You may have to do it again. You have to be very careful here. Excess enthusiasm will ruin the bore. |
If it were me, I'd be taking it to a trusted gunsmith. They can either fix it, or advise you to sent it back to that factory and allow them to make it right.
|
Clem, pioneer461 thanks for the reply's guys. I will give them a week then I'll start looking at the recommendations you guys gave me.
Here are the pictures. http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/z...n/IMAG0188.jpg http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/z...n/IMAG0189.jpg http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/z...n/IMAG0187.jpg |
Thats odd looks like something stuck in the rifling on that first pic . does it look to be part of the barrel or lead buildup ? Shouldnt be part of the barrel or the rest of the rifling would have it if it wasnt rifled through all the way . Do you have a dental pick ? if you do I would see if it would pop loose but dont get crazy and score the barrel either
|
I blew the picture up 400X and there is rifling before and after that piece of metal protruding so its not a bad machining or anything like that it just looks like a small piece of metal turned sideways in the rifling groove , use a small pick and remove it
|
Is that your first pistol? MANY people flinch and don't know it with a .45 ... grip to tight ... don't grip high enough ... ride the slide ... ect.
|
One thing that I noticed from the pictures, is the VERY loose fit of the barrel in the collar and it is not concentric. I'm not familiar with this particular pistol, but in general loose fit and lack of concentricity are bad things when talking about gun accuracy. That being said. Neither the things I have mentioned nor flinching will cause key holeing. That is a bore or bullet issue.
EDUB |
Quote:
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
| All times are GMT. The time now is 08:51 PM. |
Copyright ©2000 - 2013, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.