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Old 09-30-2009, 01:46 AM   #1
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Default Ruger 10/22 improvments

Bill Ruger had one hell of a good idea when he came out with the 10/22, but mass production being what it is-there's several areas ripe for improvement. There's a whole industry devoted to modifying & upgrading 10/22s. I personally have never seen/shot a stock 10/22 that I was happy to leave that way.

The first area that I always look toward upgrading is the trigger. 10/22 triggers are horrible as they come straight from the factory. They have entirely too much pull weight, and excessive travel. I polish everything, install adjustable overtravel, shorten reset, lower pull weight, and sometimes install adjustable takeup screws (depending on order). I also modify the bolt release & install extended magazine release while I'm working on the trigger group. When I get done it'll have a 2-3 pound trigger, free of all but the necessary minimum travel needed to reset.

Milling the bolt face down to .043 rim thickness depth will assure exacting headspace but is not something a beginner should tackle without a mill and depth mic. Also milling a radius on the bottom rear of the bolt smooths operation & hammer reset in the case of subsonic or target ammo being used.

There's so many aftermarket barrels for sale that it's hard to decide which to choose. All I will say is to buy the best barrel you can afford and you won't be sorry. The absolute best barrels will run as much as 350$ but decent barrels may be had for 150-200$ or even less.

Once you change the barrel to a .920 "bull" barrel, you'll have to inlet the stock for it or replace the stock altogether. Of those 2 options, I usually opt for another stock. There's some "sporter" weight barrels on the market and these will fit into the factory barrel channel in the stock without alteration.

Scoping a target quality .22 is not as easy as simply slapping a cheap scope on it. As with most things you get what you pay for, and scopes are no different. I HIGHLY prefer to have a scope with adjustable objective when mounting on a .22. The reason for this is parallax. Most scopes meant to be mounted on centerfire rifles are factory adjusted to be parallax free at 100-150 yards. Most .22s are zeroed in at 50 yards. Therein lies the problem.

You can't properly set up a .22 without using quality ammo. Sure it'll shoot all ammo better than before, but cheap bulk wal-mart ammo just don't do it justice. Trying different ammo to see how it groups is purely fun.

In case anybody wants me to rework a trigger group for them PM me for details. Neil
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Old 09-30-2009, 02:15 AM   #2
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I'm pretty happy with my 10/22, but it has the typical Ruger gritty trigger. I haven't put more than a few hundred rounds through it and was figuring that it would eventually smooth up.

I've had too much else going on to mess around with it, but now after reading this, I may just have to work on that trigger a bit.

Thanks Bear.

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Old 09-30-2009, 02:19 AM   #3
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Very nice. Well done Bear!

To anyone with a stock Ruger 10/22 - you really need to tap this man for his knowledge and wealth of experience. He is a true book of knowledge, and not only about this particular firearm.

JD

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Old 10-03-2009, 02:46 PM   #4
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My first post here. After reading a bunch of posts, what a great group of people we have here!

Bear- I think we all totally agree with you. I haven't shot a 10/22 factory that I've liked either. The trigger out-of-the-box is horrible and I've seen them range from 7lbs to what feels like 20lbs. You're concentrating more on getting the trigger to fell the hammer than getting a round off!

I've done a manual trigger job on a friend's 10/22 because he didn't have the money for an aftermarket trigger kit, knocked it down to 3lb 10oz according to my trigger gauge. But, that isn't always the easiest thing to do and if you take too much off one of the parts, you go into full auto.

For those interested in doing a trigger job with aftermarket parts by themselves, it's not too terribly hard. You could read the following article(s) and, if nothing else, knowing exactly step by step what you need to do you can either decide to do it yourself or know it's above your skill set. There's also an article to replace the bolt release to the 'auto' version and extended magazine release, etc. Detailed pictures, can click to enlarge and what-not. It also includes links to all the parts used.

I hope someone gets some use out of them:

Link to Ruger 10/22 Trigger Kit Install

Ruger 10/22 Auto Bolt/Magazine Release

Future articles to replace the firing pin, extractor and replace bolt handle with an extended.


Enjoy?

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Old 10-04-2009, 10:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stalkingbear View Post
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Also milling a radius on the bottom rear of the bolt smooths operation & hammer reset in the case of subsonic or target ammo being used.
Neil
Mr. Bear;

That is a modification I have not run across before, but it does make a lot of sense to me. Might I ask what size radius you are applying to your bolts?
Thanks.
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Old 10-05-2009, 03:03 AM   #6
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All you do is make a radius where the bottom rear of the bolt is sharp & contacts the hammer-it don't have to be a certain size. I wish my nephew was here so I could take before/after pics.

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Old 10-05-2009, 04:07 AM   #7
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So basically, just enough to break the sharp edge and give the hammer a surface to "roll" under then? If you do get a chance to take a few pics and post them I would be very interested in seeing the end result. I don't want to over-do it, since taking material off is so much easier than putting it back on.

Thanks again.

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Old 10-05-2009, 12:52 PM   #8
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That's exactly what is done. Just round off the back so that the hammer cocks a lot easier. It really helps the reliability when using low powered target/subsonic ammo. I'll post pics as soon as I can.

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Old 10-05-2009, 02:34 PM   #9
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Wow, thanks for the feedback. I hadn't heard of that modification. What a great idea. I'm looking forward to the pics, too!

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Old 10-05-2009, 03:07 PM   #10
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I put a radius on this one to help in functioning with standard velocity target and sub-sonic rounds and also lightened the bolt, which also helps with reliable functioning. Hope the photos help.

Jim...........





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