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Old 05-26-2011, 05:27 PM   #11
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I guess I am expecting a bit much to think Velocitor and AR Tactical rounds to perform outstanding results by just looking at statistics but the Velocitor is what I plan to use if I need to do pest control. Lapua and Eley look like they can be pretty accurate on their own so I'll have to get a hold of some of it when I finish the build.

Is it better to free float a barrel or bed it? Most of the stocks I see by just glancing through the options for stocks are free float designs. Which is a better process accuracy-wise?

I did plan on getting a rim-thickness gauge, got that on my tool wish list.
Can you explain why I'd need to mil the boltface to .043 rim thickness? I can do it, I just dont know why is all
You need to decide what you want this gun to do. If you want a reasonably accurate varminter that's one thing. If you want to "drive pins" that's quite another.

It's best to float the barrel. On 10/22s, especially with a bull barrel, it's best to bed the first inch or so of the barrel so that the heavy barrel isn't hanging off of the aluminum receiver.
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Old 05-26-2011, 06:43 PM   #12
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This is what we use and like very much in our match rifles at our monthly shoots at the gun club (first photo). The next photo is what we would use if we could afford it.

wolf-20mt.jpg   imagesca2cvacm.jpg  
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Old 05-27-2011, 06:26 AM   #13
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That makes sense, thanks for clearing that up Stalkingbear.

Natman, first and foremost I want it to have the best accuracy I can get. I can deal with standard velocity ammo if that's what prints best.

I gave a look at Lilja barrels and they look very promising. No cool fluting?
I'm kidding obviously, I'll take accuracy over looks on this project so aeshtetics take a backseat. Still looking at options just to see what pops up.
I found a pre-smoothed bolt with internal firing pin, but it is case hardened, which means if I work on it I have to either re-case harden or speical order it.
Do you think I'd be better off working on an original cast-bolt and smoothing the surfaces my self or would that through off tolenrences too much?

Edit: Tony KID products keep poping up and I'm thinking about starting with one of their recievers and maybe the 20" bull barrel, but not sure yet. Any opinions on their products?

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Old 05-27-2011, 09:09 AM   #14
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Natman, first and foremost I want it to have the best accuracy I can get. I can deal with standard velocity ammo if that's what prints best.
Then forget about Velocitors and the like and concentrate on finding match ammo that your rifle likes.

I would suggest a barrel, a trigger and a stock. Put that together and then see how it shoots. Then if you still want more accuracy, try internal changes one by one to learn what works.
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:29 PM   #15
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Edit: Tony KID products keep poping up and I'm thinking about starting with one of their recievers and maybe the 20" bull barrel, but not sure yet. Any opinions on their products?
Kidd products are GREAT, I have the same barrel you're talking about, a Kidd trigger, and I think I'm getting a Kidd receiver for my berfday. Kidd is all over the place down here in my neck of the woods. Really fine products.
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Old 05-31-2011, 02:29 AM   #16
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Default 10-22

built a few float the barrel work on the trigger try differnt ammo the most expensive is not always best

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Old 06-05-2011, 09:58 PM   #17
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I really like the KIDD trigger's adjustability, I havent gotten to do much work on my factory trigger group yet. I may just start by buying a KIDD trigger group for my current 10/22 and swaping out when I actually get the new rifle put together.

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Old 06-05-2011, 11:15 PM   #18
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Default 10-22

clark custom has a good group hammer sear trigger for about 60.00 if you wany to go all out volquriskin 200+ but exalant i have both and id go clark to start takes pull down to about 4 lb but with a noticable let off but works good when your use to it

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Old 06-08-2011, 01:24 AM   #19
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10-22's are great rifles, the main problem with them is the cost to really get them to shoot. It's pretty easy to spend $800 to $1000. for a real tac driver.
I know, I have one and have spent a lot of money on it.

I bought a Savage BRJ, had it accurized for $225.00 by SavageGunsmithing.
I have maybe $600. max into it and it will outshot every 10-22 I've seen. Someone with $1000. or more may give it a run for the money, but that's a lot of ammo or a very good target scope.
I shoot Wolf MT, it likes it the best and is an inexpensive match ammo.
I shoot .1" groups on a very regular basis (in decent shooting conditions), 5 shots @ 50 yds and about 5 weeks ago, I shot a perfect 5 shot group @ 50 yards, .222".

No saying the Ruger is not a fine rifle, only pointing out there are alturnitives, for less Money and it's something different, which is something I like.
Many people buy the TR model as it's more of a benchrest stock.
Go to Savages web site and look at all they offer. All heavy barreled models are the same with the exception of the stocks.

One last reason. If you have a problem with a Ruger and it's been modified, Ruger will remove all non stock parts or refuse to work on it, Savage does not care, they will repair a problem and unless something is unsafe, leave your modifications alone. I have also found Savage to give the best customer service of any gun company.

Just something to chew on, John K

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Old 06-08-2011, 01:57 AM   #20
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I think the OP was asking about 10/22s-not Savage.

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