[stalkingbear]

Has anybody seen/handled the newest 10/22 from Ruger yet? It's dressed up as an AR15 flat top and looks interesting. I just wonder how accurate it is.
If I didn't already have 3 10/22s I might consider buying 1.
The Ruger® SR-22™ Rifle

[BigByrd47119]

That looks really sharp. I wonder how much it would cost for the stock alone. Id probably just toss my 10/22 assmebly into it if it was possable (dont see why I coudlnt).

[gadrooning]

very good looking gun. I too would like to know how accurate this thing is. Love my 10/22 just hate the factory triggers. It would be nice if they would address that.

[stalkingbear]

It's extremely easy to get a really good trigger on 10/22s, even reworking the factory parts-I do it all the time. I could post a how to if needed.

[JiroZero713]

Seems much more practical than a .22 AR IMO.

[gadrooning]

stalkingbear you would be my hero if you share your know how. I work on my triggers for 1911 all day long and get really good results, but the 10/22 seems to just alude me. I generally just throw my hands up end up buying volquartstein hammer,sear,and spring kit.

[BigByrd47119]

Originally Posted by stalkingbear

It's extremely easy to get a really good trigger on 10/22s, even reworking the factory parts-I do it all the time. I could post a how to if needed.

Most forums that have sections for rimfire have stickys relating to things like dissasembly, stoning, bedding and the like. It might be a good idea to have that for our rimfire section as well!

[stalkingbear]

I don't have the capability for pics right now (nephew ain't visiting) but here goes. Since I'm not personally doing the work I CANNOT be held responsible for any mishaps connected with working on parts. I do this work myself if requested-PM me if interested or if you have any trouble.

The hammer is 1 of the 2 main areas that needs work. You CAN rework the factory hammer by reducing the amount of sear engagement. How you reduce the amount of sear engagement is simply shortening how tall the sear notch is by approx 1/2. You can smooth out the notch itself but DO NOT round the top of the sear notch off OR change the angle of the engagement notch. Make SURE you leave enough "meat" for engagement as you can always take more off, but it's hard as hell to put it back. You DON'T want an unreliable rifle. That's all you need to do to the hammer.

Just polish the sear with changing angle or dimensions of the notch that fits into the hammer. I also install adjustable takeup in the sear but don't know how to convey everything without pics as it's fairly involved process and usually not needed except on competition rifles. All it does is shorten reset & takeup.

Reworking the trigger itself is only to install adjustable overtravel. You can do this 1 of 2 ways-either by drilling & tapping the trigger itself or drilling & tapping the rear of the triggerguard for a hex head set screw that limits overtravel. You drill the hole centered below the trigger return plunger where the lower trigger comes close to the trigger guard. I recommend drilling & tapping the trigger guard itself so you can adjust the overtravel with the housing/rifle fully assembled. After getting the trigger overtravel adjusted EXACTLY where you want it, mark it, remove the set screw, shorten to length where it won't protrude past the rear of the guard, loc-tite it, then reinstall it.

Polish the trigger return plunger, use a grease sparingly such as Brownells Action Lube+ on all moving/contact surfaces, install your spring kit but leave at least full powered hammer spring in it-if not extra power spring. This is assuming you have a aluminum trigger & trigger housing. If you have the plastic version it's a little more complicated on installing overtravel

Is that enough to get you going? Neil

[notdku]

I wonder if it has feed issues like some 9MM AR variants.

[stalkingbear]

It shouldn't-it's simply a "gussied up" version of the 10/22.