Originally Posted by king1138
A work friend wants to sell me his old Marlin 995, but I wasn't sure what it's really worth. I don't want to over or under pay. He says it's in good condition and shoots fine, but he has 4 other .22 rifles and just wants some extra room in his safe for a new .17HMR. I don't know the exact condition, but it is old and used.
Anyone have a thought on how much this rifle is worth? Is it a good buy or should I save some more pennies for a Ruger 10/22?
About $100-150, depending on how GOOD a condition.
Basically, the 995 was the Tuxedo version of the model 7070HC/795 for a little while, notable for it's checkered Black Walnut stock.
Marlin rifles are famous for three things, precision (<1" average groups at 25 & 50 yds), heavy lawyered triggers (easliy modified), and they FTE like AR-15's when dirty (also easily manageable).
The precision most folks don't mess with, but they do tend to accurize by Pillar Bedding, which shrinks groups a wee bit to the one-ragged-hole variety.
The trigger mods are pretty darn easy. You start by simply polishing the trigger/sear mating...that usually makes it feel MUCH more crisp & light.
NOTE: READ this all the way to the end
, some mods were Improved over the years & some were found to make little if any difference. The JBWeld trick got Improved to a 6/32" setscrew for adjustability.
The dirty issue is solved in a threefold manner.
First, never use Remington Golden Bullet, Thunderbolts, or Winchester Wildcat ammo. Reason, fires DIRTYER than a three-dolla hooker. Worse than old WW1 Russian ammo. Also, the Remington stuff is inconsistant as all heck.
Second, CLEAN the rifle totally before taking it out for the first time, a lot of folks and don't clean out all the packing grease in the nooks & crannies....which then turns into GUM...which causes 98% of FTE's. Especially in the two slots on each side of the barrel where the extractors sit.
After the initial cleaning, treat it like an M-16A1...clean the action after EVERY range visit, squirrel/rabbit hunting day.
Third, Polish all mating surfaces...especially the bolt itself and where the bolt slides on the inside of the action, AND the Rod Guide which helps the recoil spring. If you have a 20+ yr old Marlin, get a new recoil spring & buffer, the difference will SHOCK you. Then check the Feed Throat and make sure it's not all scarred up from some Donk poking at it with a screwdriver or other implement of destruction It should be smooth & gouge-free. Polish or replace if beat-up.
now that those issues are resolved, there's ONE more...PLEASE make sure that the Ejector Wire is in the proper position!!!
right between the forefinger & thumb?? That's the Extractor wire.
Make sure it looks like that.
Thats it. Not only will your Marlin cycle WAY better after those manipulations, it'll outshoot CZ's if you are any good.
Oh, while I'm at it, read this. This is every trick-out accessory I've found so far for Marlin Semi-auto rifles. You can do just about as much with Marlins as you can with a 10/22.
Marlin 60/795 Accessories