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Old 12-10-2012, 12:56 AM   #21
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Marlin and Savage both make great sub-$200 bolt action rimfires. The Marlin is built better. The Savage will likely be more accurate.

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Old 12-10-2012, 07:24 PM   #22
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If power or repeat hit speed means nothing to you, why not just use a pellet rifle, hmm? If you read and understand Paladin Press's book, HOW TO MAKE A SILENCER FOR A .22, you will be out only about $40 for your "can", along with the $200 Fed tax, of course, and that includes internally threading your barrel yourself. Once you have made the special, brass- piloted tap drill bit, all you need is to borrow the use of a vise, a level, and a hand held power drill that features a bubble-level built into it. The counterbored hole in the muzzle and the internal thread means that you don't have to remove and relocate your front sight..

I've had a 10-22 Ruger do ok with the 60 gr subsonic Aquila load. You can just use CB caps in a long barrel and it will be fairly quiet. They will take squirrels and rabbits with chest hits.

There is very little noise that escapes the ejection port of a suppressed .22 autoloader. On a very quiet, cold,night, on flat open terrain, you might hear it at 200 yds, but typically it goes unnoticed at 100 yds. In wet, warm conditions, in wooded hills with a bit of wind, it will be unnoticed at 50 yds. Ditto if passing vehicles or dry leaves in a breeze are creating "background noise".

The book shows you how to create a mallet-powered "die-set" for forming the baffles, and it shows you 2 ways to mount the male-threaded adapter into the rear of the can. It may be welded into place, using an $80 MAPP -oxygen torch, or it can have 3 roll pins driven into holes that are drilled thru the side of the tubing (1/8" from the end of the tube, centered on the sides of the bolt head) and into 3 (alternating) sides of the 6 sides of the hex headed bolt that becomes the adapter.

A .238" ID hole is of course drilled thru the 3/4" long bolt, lengthwise and centered. this allows the bullet to pass cleanly thru the adapter. Then JB Weld epoxy seals the holes in and around the pins, and around the sides of the bolt head. A can must be a 'gas tight" container, you know. The only hole in the can must be the one the bullet comes out of.

The formed, annealed, copper screenwire "donut" baffles have a 1/4" ID hole thru their centers, for the same reason as the hole thru the adapter, letting the bullet pass thru them. All .22 cans have to be cleaned every 300 rds or so. The powder residues start to make them "louder". A few shots of brake cleaner solvent and then blasts of compressed air (from a can of air intented for cleaning computer keyboards, if need be) suffice, but let all inflamable vapors evaporate before firing thru the can, or you'll have a fire inside of it.
Wow, where to start.... At least he gives lip service to the batf background check and tax stamp process.
Bad idea from multiple perspectives. Internal threading of a barrel is an old idea that was debunked years ago, it does terrible things to your accuracy. Why do you think we go to all the trouble to cut high accuracy crowns on barrels in the girst place.
Silencers in general cost a lot of money because of the very tight tolerances needed to make them effective. If you can work to +-.005 inch sure go ahead and make your own after the background check and tax stamp. If you can t machine with your current shop setup this is not the beginner project to learn on.
Plus if you bubba up the gun you destroy its resale. 1/2-28 external threads are a standard for a reason on. 223 caliber barrels.
If you have the approval and stamp in hand but just don't have the money to go forward yet have the barrel threaded 1/2-28 by a gunsmith and get an oil filter attachment. Cheap and works without harming your rifle. Play with it for a while while you save up for a real can. Just my two cents worth...
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:35 PM   #23
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What's a good. 22 rifle with a threaded barrel that can accept a suppressor? I've found "quiet" ammo and a backstop. Now I just need a good rifle. Preferably under $800
That CCI quiet doesnt cycle well in semi auto. maybe a ruger mkII tactical .22 would be good for that setup
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:46 PM   #24
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wrongo, dude. I've done the above internal threading MANY times. if the lips on the piloted drill bit are properly recut (where the "shoulder" is formed when you reduce the OD of the drill bit) then it acts to 'recrown" the barrel as the bit cuts the counterbore. Anyone who says differently almost certainly has a vested interest in your wasting your money
if you've got the drill bit, you see, you can self- mount that one can on MANY .22's, and the smiths want you to spend $50 with them for EACH barrel they thread for you! That often does NOT include removing and remounting your front sight. If you want to thread a walther PP or some other .22 whose slide covers the barrel, it's going to cost you are FORTUNE to externally thread the barrel, cause have to machine and solder on a barrel extension, and getting the barrel OUT of and back into a PP is a PITA. You have to heat the "horseshoe" like frame extention and drive the barrel back out of the extention. reverse the process to reinstall the barrel, of course. the front sight on a Ruger .22 pistol or rifle is a pita to reinstall, too. My way, you don't have to bother to do anything else to the barrel or sights. :-)

You can also CHARGE to thread the barrels on your buddies' guns, guys. some of them are BOUND to want to try a silencer on THEIR gun. :-) the internal thread goes pretty much unnoticed at public shooting ranges, too, for those who prefer to remain discrete.

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Old 12-12-2012, 01:14 AM   #25
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while it is possible to internally thread a barrel and it is possible to legally construct your own suppressor neither is a really great idea due mainly to baffle strikes becoming a real possibility as well as ruining a good barrel.

savage makes a very good 22lr bolt gun that is easily suppressed i run a savage mk2 fvsr its very short very accurate i was getting sub moa groups at 100yds this past weekend with cci blazer. i run it with a silencerco sparrow ss.

http://savagearms.com/firearms/model/MARKIIFVSR

under 300$

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Old 12-12-2012, 02:27 AM   #26
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if you made the baffles in the first place, you can replace them if they get struck, too. :-) Believe me, baffle strikes occur all too often with commercially made "cans" and machine shop turned threads on barrels.

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Old 12-12-2012, 02:36 AM   #27
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if you made the baffles in the first place, you can replace them if they get struck, too. :-) Believe me, baffle strikes occur all too often with commercially made "cans" and machine shop turned threads on barrels.
just out of curiosity, how many suppressors have you made and tested? legal ones!
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:44 AM   #28
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just out of curiosity, how many suppressors have you made and tested? legal ones!
Apparently not many axxe.
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:07 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by bonney View Post
if you made the baffles in the first place, you can replace them if they get struck, too. :-) Believe me, baffle strikes occur all too often with commercially made "cans" and machine shop turned threads on barrels.
just a fyi it is not legal for a non-sot to repair a suppressor. a private individual may legally construct a suppressor but may not conduct repairs once it is assembled and tax stamped.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:55 PM   #30
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if you made the baffles in the first place, you can replace them if they get struck, too. :-) Believe me, baffle strikes occur all too often with commercially made "cans" and machine shop turned threads on barrels.
Rubbish I'm afraid. Where I live 'suppressors' are extremely common and reports of baffle strikes (usually alerted to by severe accuracy issues), are extremely rare. The last occasion I recall was because the can had worked loose while firing.

Your average "machine shop" won't realize the importance of cutting the threads true to the bore, they will just thread it like a piece of pipe. That's why you get a reputable gunsmith to do it, and you'll have a better than factory thread and crown.

I wouldn't do what you suggest to the cheapest of my guns and I certainly wouldn't buy one that had been botched like this. So as far as cost is concerned, I say you will loose more money by devaluing your gun thanks to the mess you've made of the barrel. Oh and baffle strikes can damage the barrel. Not so easy to fix as a new baffle.
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