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Old 12-22-2010, 11:40 PM   #21
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Bore snakes can be washed. I dont reccomend using your wifes washing machine.

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Old 12-22-2010, 11:49 PM   #22
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I've used bore snakes before on a lot of pistols when I was on the road and living in hotels.

I just used to dose them good with some laundry detergent, put them in an old sock that I turn inside out, and throw them in the washing machine.

Never had a problem and they were better than dragging around an extra piece of baggage when I was changing hotels a lot because job sites changed.

*shrug*

YMMV

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Old 12-23-2010, 01:02 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpttango30 View Post
A bore snake is good for one use. then you are just dragging a dirty rag through your gun. How is dragging a dirty sock through your gun cleaning it?
But the bore snake has the brushy section that could actually help loosen up any fouling? I dunno.
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Old 12-23-2010, 02:07 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonyaeger View Post
Also, on the semi-autos like my 10/22 and my Browning take-down, if you were to use a brush and cleaning rod, you would have to go at it from the muzzle end, which doesn't seem right to me.

How do y'all do it?

i use a bore snake on my 10/22. every 1000 rounds i take the barrel off and detail strip everything for a thorough cleaning.

a bore snake works well for 22lr. it removes a lot of the crud, enough so to keep the barrel from severe fouling until a good cleaning can be done. bore snakes arent for spicnspan eat off the floor clean its just a good means of removing the chunks and keep going.
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Old 12-31-2010, 04:34 PM   #25
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I would recommend not cleaning your 22 rifle until either the accuracy falls off or there is so much gunk that it stops working. That workes out to be about once a year for my four rimfire rifles and I shoot more then 5000 rounds (total) a year through them. I dissassemble and clean my bullseye pistol after every match because that firearm (baikal 35m) needs to be clean to prevent FTF, FTE, and doubling and tripling which does not happen on my 10-22.

I would not recommend a brush or a boresnake unless you have a bore guide to compress the brush before entering the bore. I have been told that a uncompressed brass brush will damage the chamber or muzzle if not compressed by a bore guide and it makes sense to me.

I shoot competitivly with 22's and use a patchworm from 20-20 concepts. I only clean when the accuracy deteriorates or the action gets gummy. After I patchworm, I use a optical borescope (the cheap non electronic one) to see if there is a carbon ring ahead of the chamber. If needed, I use a nylon brush and hoppes number 9 on the carbon ring.

I have not had the monster leading problem that has been documented on other forums for 22 rimfires.

I do not recommend this for centerfire rifles because of the copper fouling encoutered with the high velocities.

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Cranky

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Old 12-31-2010, 05:51 PM   #26
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[QUOTE=Dillinger;407448]I had a hole drilled in the back of the receiver so I could use a rod the correct way.



Works mighty fine too! I did it to all my 10/22s. I'm a firm believer in using a jag on .22s whenever possible and this was the only practicle way to do it on these rifles.

I was raised that if you shoot it, you clean it and I don't mean the animal you just shot. We won't even get into what the Army taught me, so I clean every time, .22s don't need it, but old habits are hard to break.

On the 10/22 I like to push a solvent soaked patch covered jag, thru the barrel from the chamber end. Then drag an oil patch thru from the chamber. Even on my "self cleaning" .920 target barrels with shadow rifleing, the jag will still find some lead to push out!

Next time you take it out, 3 or 4 fouling shots and you are back on target!

This is just what I do, JMHO so don't take it as advice. If what you are doing works for you, stick with it! Ken

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Old 12-31-2010, 06:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankythunder View Post
I would not recommend a brush or a boresnake unless you have a bore guide to compress the brush before entering the bore. I have been told that a uncompressed brass brush will damage the chamber or muzzle if not compressed by a bore guide and it makes sense to me.
that doesnt make any sense brass is softer metal than steel. the brush will wear out and go to bits long before you make a mark on the barrel steel. you might damage the finish at the muzzle by pulling one back through the muzzle.
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Old 12-31-2010, 07:38 PM   #28
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I also drilled the receiver of my 10/22 to serve as a way to use a cleaning rod from the breach and to also anchor the rear of the receiver in the stock.
I've only used a rod a couple times however. Like once every year or two...maybe.
I'll usually just run a dry snake through from the open action once or twice every 500 rounds or so to remove powder fouling from the chamber area to ease feeding and extraction.

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Old 12-31-2010, 07:49 PM   #29
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22 lr doesn't travel fast enough to shed copper in the barrlrel. Most of what you get is wax and powder fouling. Bore snake with light oil on the end after 100-200 rounds is all I do also. Maybe...maybe once a year I will use a bore snake with solvent.

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Old 12-31-2010, 09:35 PM   #30
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I'm a retired gunsmith and have seen every way to clean a auto loader 22 that you can imagine.

What I have found is that the kit by Otis (remington makes the same kind too) is the best thing going.

It has a flexable, plastic covered pull rod I guess you would call it, you just put the cleaning brush on it, thread it down through the breach end and pull it out of the muzzle.
The flexable rod is very easy to guide so it won't even touch the crown and mess it up.
It's fast, easy and it really works well
I think either Natchez shooters or Graf & sons carries the Remington kit, which I like better than the otis kit. They run $30 to$40 and are worth every penney.

As to cleaning, use a bore cleaner made just for the 22LR.
Clean the barrel really good. It will take some shots to season a cleaned barrel before it shoots it's best again, then don't clean it again until the accuracy starts to fall off. If it goes 700 rounds before that happens, shoot 700 rounds.
Just keep the chamber and breach face clean as well as the bolt and trigger assembly if needed.

Most people over clean a 22 and more are ruined by overcleaning than anything else.

Whatever you do, clean only from the breach end to the muzzle, protect the muzzle at all costs (nothing ruins a muzzle faster than dragging a cleaning rod against it when cleaning), use a bore guide in the action if possible and don't clean until you absolutly have to. most 22's shoot better with dirty barrels. When they start to foul and accuracy starts going away, clean it.

You can pull a dry patch through every hundred shots or so if you want to.

If you have some stubborn fouling, scrubbing with a patch with JB Bore shine will remove the last of the fouling and not hurt the bore one bit. This is the only time you will ever use a scrubbing motion in your barrel.
Regular JB has an abrasive finer than Jewelers Rouge, Bore Shine has an even finer abrasive, it's the finest abrasive of any abrasive bore cleaner available. It will not damge your barrel, just don't over do it. 5 minutes max.

John K

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