Cleaning Marlin 39A
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Cleaning Marlin 39A


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Old 10-01-2011, 09:23 PM   #1
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Default Cleaning Marlin 39A

Before pushing the cleaning rod through, has anyone actually been able to press down the extractor and turn the slot on that little rivet to keep the extractor down?

Yeah, I am getting dumber every year so I just try to push the extracter back, still end up shaving bits of aluminum of my cleaning rod. Hmm . . . think I need a steel cleaning rod.

When I look at it in bright light it seems there is maybe 3/64" space between the end of the extractor and that slotted "rivet" that is supposed to hold it down.

Damnifino how it is supposed to work, no matter how long I look at the instruction manual (downloaded, original is 1/2 century + gone).

Rifle functions & extracts just fine. Recall that in the 1950's or '60's I had some jamming, so got in the habit of watching the action as I closed it not so fast.

Started shooting it again. Love the rifle. Cleaning it, well, not so much.

Actually I have two 39A's. One from about 1952, two years ago bought one at Mansfield. Told Wife it was not an antique as it was made the same year as I. Nevertheless, She insists that it is an antique.
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:50 PM   #2
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I have owned many of these and have never had problems locking down the ejector. Is there an abundence of "crud" under your ejector? Lastly if you would stand for a little unsolicited advise. Jointed aluminum cleaning rods have ruined many a fine rifle. They are so soft and easy to burr, that burrs get left in the barrel and driven into rifling by the first shot fired after cleaning. A good cleaning rod is expensive and worth every penny.
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Old 10-01-2011, 11:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30-30remchester View Post
I have owned many of these and have never had problems locking down the ejector. Is there an abundence of "crud" under your ejector? Lastly if you would stand for a little unsolicited advise. Jointed aluminum cleaning rods have ruined many a fine rifle. They are so soft and easy to burr, that burrs get left in the barrel and driven into rifling by the first shot fired after cleaning. A good cleaning rod is expensive and worth every penny.
30-30,I'm sorry,but there is NO way that an aluminum cleaning rod will ruin a rifle barrel.
The barrel is so much harder than the cleaning rod.The rod might leave burrs inside the bore,but they will not do anything to it.The worst thing is the first bullet shot will be affected by picking up the aluminum burrs leaving the bore.

Now a steel or stainless cleaning rod can/will damage a bore if it's not used properly,but not an aluminum rod.
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:21 PM   #4
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Yer wifey is right...anything over 30 years old is an antique. Sorry...


MarlinOwners has possibly the best breakdown pics & instructions, second only to RimfireCentral on Marlin rimfire info.

Also...
Cleaning Marlin 39A - .22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:00 PM   #5
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If I can somehow get my wife to photograph a borescope image of a 30-30 a friend has with an inbedded piece of cleaning rod I will post it.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:16 PM   #6
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Thanks for the advice.

First, I see no crud under the extractor, either Marlin. I have picked & cleaned out what I found (such as aluminum rr shavings) The extractor seems to push down pretty far, I just can't get it to stay down nor do I really understand how it is supposed to, with the gap that exists between the end of the extractor and the rivet.
I have downloaded & enlarged the Marlin manual section on this.

Second, I agree a hard stainless rod is better. I am aware of the damage soft metal can do to a hard barrel. Today I just bought a Winchester M1885 .22lr made in Japan, cleaned out the oil with Dad's old rod sold by Sam Tekulsky. Guess I'll break down and buy one from Pro-Shot Products.

Slightly off-topic, soft metal picks up abrasive dust and uses it to wear out your bore. A hard steel rod does not do this. Aluminum, well at the very least it has a thin film of aluminum oxide (like, alumina sharpening stone) on the surface which is not great for the bore.
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Old 10-04-2011, 12:53 AM   #7
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This post is for everybody but also TXHILLBILLY, I read your post and it made me do some thinking. So many people have any real experence in any of these subject and many of us just "parrot" old wifes tales and stories others have told. In my original post on this subject I myself did just that, I repeated something I had heard fro others and have no first hand knowledge on the subject of aluminum rods. I do hand around many topnotch benchrest shooters and they universally detest these rods and "claim" they can leave burrs in the barrel that can become enbedded in the rifling when the first bullet is fired. A friend has such an enbedded piece of metal in his rifling. F
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:00 AM   #8
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Woops accidentally pushed the send button on above post before I was ready. To continue, was this from an aluminum cleaning rod? I ASSUMED it was, am I sure? No. Anyway the easy way aluminum shaves on sharp rifleing at least seems logical. I do KNOW sectioned cleaning rods can damage the rifling as they pass through. I have many times felt the joints encounter the rifling as it passes down the bore. Wait, did I say I know the rifling will be damaged? I guess I did. Cas it damage the rifling? I would assume so but I dont KNOW for sure I just know that the sectioned rods can and do hit the rifling as they pass.
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:51 AM   #9
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Not to argue your thinking about Aluminum cleaning rods,but just think about it.
You don't mind sending a projectile at 2-4x's the speed of sound down your bore at whatever high temperature that erodes the neck out of your barrel in just a few thousand rounds.
But you have problems pushing by hand,a material that is so much softer a material than the barrel itself thru the bore,worried that a much softer material can somehow imbed itself into a much harder surface.

That's like saying a burr from a piece of plate steel is going to imbed into a carbide drill bit!

Now,I will agree that you can damage the crown of the muzzle with a cleaning rod.It doesn't matter what type of rod you are using.
If you clean a barrel from the muzzle end,you need to use a guide on the rod.
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:45 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCKelly
Before pushing the cleaning rod through, has anyone actually been able to press down the extractor and turn the slot on that little rivet to keep the extractor down?

Yeah, I am getting dumber every year so I just try to push the extracter back, still end up shaving bits of aluminum of my cleaning rod. Hmm . . . think I need a steel cleaning rod.

When I look at it in bright light it seems there is maybe 3/64" space between the end of the extractor and that slotted "rivet" that is supposed to hold it down.

Damnifino how it is supposed to work, no matter how long I look at the instruction manual (downloaded, original is 1/2 century + gone).

Rifle functions & extracts just fine. Recall that in the 1950's or '60's I had some jamming, so got in the habit of watching the action as I closed it not so fast.

Started shooting it again. Love the rifle. Cleaning it, well, not so much.

Actually I have two 39A's. One from about 1952, two years ago bought one at Mansfield. Told Wife it was not an antique as it was made the same year as I. Nevertheless, She insists that it is an antique.
You shouldn't be using a rod...ever! Cut a piece of weed eater line about 2 1/2 feet long. Tie a simple granny knot in one end. Use a pair of pliers to pull the knot tight and small. Cut the other end on an angle so it forms a point. Stick the pointed end through a round 1 1/2 inch patch. Thread the through the barrel from either end and pull it through with whatever you want to squirt on the patch. Remove patch, repeat.

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