About the Speed Strip Kit for Ruger Pistols:
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About the Speed Strip Kit for Ruger Pistols:


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Old 05-13-2012, 01:01 AM   #1
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Default About the Speed Strip Kit for Ruger Pistols:

I just cleaned my Ruger MkII for the first time this afternoon. It only took me three or four days to get the mainspring back in.

About the Speed Strip Kit for Ruger Pistols:
It looks good. What’s not clear to me is from the video is;
Does one still have to remove the mainspring to remove the barrel from the lower?
Is a mallet still needed for that?
Can the trigger weight stay the same as stock?

Majestic Arms says it can be done by anybody with ordinary hand tools. How are the threads cut in the barrel? Is a tapping the threads that easy to do?
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:48 PM   #2
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Can't answer your question about the kit. But once you get the hang of reassembling the Mark pistol you won't need it.

When you are having that issue where, when you close the mainspring housing assembly (MHA), it pulls back out, that means that the hammer is not all the way forward. Take a Q-tip or some other tool and just push the hammer forward all the way. The MHA will then insert into the grip properly. Not having the hammer all the way forward is the most common reassembly error for new Mark owners. Yes, it took me an evening of fiddling to get it all figured out the first time. But now my Mark pistols are among the easiest of my pistols to clean and reassemble.

By the way the other common error in reassembling a Mark pistol occurs when, after re-inserting the MHA, the pistol will not rack. This means that the hammer strut is out of place. Very easy to correct. Simply swing the MHA out (but don't pull it out), point the barrel upwards, and give it a nice firm tap with a nylon or rubber mallet on the tip of the barrel. You will hear a click, which is the hammer strut falling into the correct position. Then close the MHA. The last little bit of closing the MHA should have you feeling some spring tension. That means that the hammer strut is in the correct position and all is well. The slide will now rack and the pistol is properly assembled.
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:59 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Redleg View Post
Can't answer your question about the kit. But once you get the hang of reassembling the Mark pistol you won't need it.

When you are having that issue where, when you close the mainspring housing assembly (MHA), it pulls back out, that means that the hammer is not all the way forward. Take a Q-tip or some other tool and just push the hammer forward all the way. The MHA will then insert into the grip properly. Not having the hammer all the way forward is the most common reassembly error for new Mark owners. Yes, it took me an evening of fiddling to get it all figured out the first time. But now my Mark pistols are among the easiest of my pistols to clean and reassemble.

By the way the other common error in reassembling a Mark pistol occurs when, after re-inserting the MHA, the pistol will not rack. This means that the hammer strut is out of place. Very easy to correct. Simply swing the MHA out (but don't pull it out), point the barrel upwards, and give it a nice firm tap with a nylon or rubber mallet on the tip of the barrel. You will hear a click, which is the hammer strut falling into the correct position. Then close the MHA. The last little bit of closing the MHA should have you feeling some spring tension. That means that the hammer strut is in the correct position and all is well. The slide will now rack and the pistol is properly assembled.
Just buy a Brownng and avoid all that krap!
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:54 PM   #4
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I've installed plenty of the kits - they work well, won't change the trigger pull, and are quite durable. If you hate reassembling your Ruger, get this kit and you'll be happy.
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Old 05-13-2012, 03:25 PM   #5
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But once you get the hang of reassembling the Mark pistol you won't need it.
+1

Get it right a few times and it's a non-problem.
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:07 PM   #6
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. . . Take a Q-tip or some other tool and just push the hammer forward all the way. The MHA will then insert into the grip properly. Not having the hammer all the way forward is the most common reassembly error for new Mark owners. Yes, it took me an evening of fiddling to get it all figured out the first time. . .
Yes, I read that too. The problem was the hammer wouldn't go forward for nothing, period. It turned out the magazine had to be installed to get the hammer to go forward. Maybe that's standard firearm reassembly procedure. I don't know. It sure seemed counter-intuitive to me.

So I've got it figured out now. Still, I'd rather not have to carry a mallet in my bag. Also the pistol feels a lot better in my hand with a rubber sleeve on the grip. It's almost as much of a pain to take the sleeve off and put it back on as dealing with the main spring. So if there's a work-a-round the stock bolt pin I'm interested.

I've never cut threads before. Is it tricky to get the threads cut right?
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Last edited by Vincine; 05-13-2012 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:45 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Vincine View Post
Yes, I read that too. The problem was the hammer wouldn't go forward for nothing, period. It turned out the magazine had to be installed to get the hammer to go forward. Maybe that's standard firearm reassembly procedure. I don't know. It sure seemed counter-intuitive to me.

So I've got it figured out now. Still, I'd rather not have to carry a mallet in my bag. Also the pistol feels a lot better in my hand with a rubber sleeve on the grip. It's almost as much of a pain to take the sleeve off and put it back on as dealing with the main spring. So if there's a work-a-round the stock bolt pin I'm interested.

I've never cut threads before. Is it tricky to get the threads cut right?
It is actually intuitive in a way about the magazine -- the gun has a magazine safety if it is a Mark III and the hammer will not go down without a magazine inserted.
Glad you have it figured out now.
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Old 03-24-2016, 01:29 PM   #8
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I've never cut threads before. Is it tricky to get the threads cut right?
What I tell new guys at work, after they have broken half a dozen taps and I'm still using my old tap:

It's called a tap for a reason. it is not called a "Put a cheater bar on that SOB and teach it the meaning of torque", it's not called a "spin that sucker up to 1000 RPM. P'duction, son, that's what it's all about!"

look closely at the tip. it's tapered. that is the only part of the tap that cuts threads. the straight part of the tap just guides the tapered part into fresh metal. it's a bunch of tiny chisels, and chisels work by impact, not pressure.

you operate a tap by tapping. twist it 45 degrees, back it out 15, twist it 45 degrees, over and over. if it jams up when backing out, tap it out, don't twist it out.

when the tap has gone in about the diameter of the tap, back it out, blow out the hole and the tap with compressed air and tap some more.

tap oil makes a huge difference. Tap Magic brand, not just some random oil you got laying around

standard ( old ways for old days ) taps collect the tiny bits of shaved off metal and retain them. spiral taps pull them up away from the cutting edge. there is no reason to continue to use straight taps since spiral taps were invented.

Last edited by microadventure; 03-24-2016 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overkill0084 View Post
+1

Get it right a few times and it's a non-problem.
+2
YouTube can be a big help
Put the cash into ammo instead

Last edited by Hairtrigger; 03-24-2016 at 08:58 PM.
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